itu

Have tried/measured them side by side, or putting ends together? 0.5 degrees is not much.

My favourite at the moment is KMA Queequeg 2. It is simplistic looking, but very powerful. I think I like it even more than my Cog T-16. https://kmamachines.com/machines/queequeg-2/

There's a Status/Trace bass for sale at the moment that would fit well to this thread.

The top looks exotic, and nicely carved (note the slap'n'pop shape between the neck and the pickup). Electronics include XLR output, so this has to be handmade and high quality, Alembic style. Price has been far over £1000. Check this out for the FB pages:

But that looks like it will be showed in some woodworking fair! In other words, one really good looking board.

Many if not most of the exps are simple pots in pedal format. They may be hi-Z (like 250k) or lo-Z (like 25k). Some have an extra pot for minimum vol or similar.

Come on, who needs tabs, when our fabulous @tomread, has transcribed it. https://www.tomreadbass.co.uk/_files/ugd/238d8f_911d353594cf40e9b2a20928d4e6fa7b.pdf

Congrats!!! Lots of work, lots of excellent transcriptions!

Remember, you are on the same road where I was with my road bike: Carbon frame, fork, crank, shifters, derailleur, rear axle, bottom bracket cover, handle bar, seat post, saddle, pedals, shoes, pump... I was after a carbon wheelset, and even chainrings, but by then my bank account had dried off. Once I measured myself, and I had only 7 % of fat in me. It was actually too little, only my bike had less... And those were the days. If you want to remove wood from the back of the headstock, consider making it slightly thinner. Then the shape stays the same. You can remove a lot if you replace it partly with... CF.

https://g-gotoh.com/product/cbt-01/?lang=en

Unlined would be possible, just move the bridge forward. Side dots would be easy to remove and then install new ones. Lined fretless, use a capo.

You have the signal, the power, and the ground, which is the shielding. That makes 3.

Some years ago when I dove into metal AM (additive manufacturing), went to an international meeting. This is short, but full of interesting details. control-approach-chemical-safety-of-3d-printing-at-workplaces.pdf

Upgraded? Here we tend to say modified. 1) You really want to dull the finish, try wire wool, or very fine water sand paper (500/1000/2000). 2) The output level does not bother me a lot - I tend to turn the gain up accordingly. The solderings look extremely well made. If the output level is something you want to change, try a preamp. Artec"s tone stack is cheap as chips, John East's full mixer very high end. Some say that "active" (i.e. battery powered pickups, or tone stack) equals higher output level than "passive". This is not obvious. Buffering means, that the existing output of the pickup is changed from high impedance (hi-Z) to lo-Z. Neither is better or worse, only different. A battery powered circuitry may (!) amplify the signal, if the designer has decided to do that, but as said, it is not always so.

A spare string set and few batteries are always with me. But two instruments only if I need two (fretted 5 with a fretted 4 / fretless 4 / eub 5). If I needed a spare bass, another cab, and amp, as well as an fx board would be a must, then. But who would carry them?

10 V / 3 A / 30 W is quite a lot. Any PSU capable of 10 V and at least 3 A would be fine, but may be slightly rare. The numbers are not the most common. I would turn back to the shop, before doing anything else.

(Have told this before) 35" 5-string Modulus Graphite Quantum and the B was lifeless. Tried lots of strings and went from .130 to thicker and thicker, but no. Once by accident had to put on a .120 B, and there it was! Even, and authoritative sound through all strings.

Scarlett looks really fab! Enjoy your twins!

Plain price is approx. £90, not bad at all. Those other gadgets look interesting, too.

StompShield is one good help to prevent hitting/kicking pots. Would the Empress be too fragile, I doubt. There's a FI in 3D printed box (thanks @GisserD) in my board, and it has survived few years with ease. Sure you have read pages of ovnilab.com?

Just came home. It was wet outside. Both ways. Place was small, good sound. Everything was going well, few surprises from the song choices, but managed. People were dancing and happy. They drank a lot. We got good food, others had even wine, I was driving. I noticed one elder lady with a short dress, and red shoes. I complimented her shoes while passed her. I had to go back, and whisper that actually her legs were perfect, too. That blink in her eyes made my eve... most probably hers, too. By the way, never put YMCA and Gimme gimme gimme side by side. Right hand fingers hurt after those swift octaves.

A major comment: A C# E. A major has 3 sharps and they are F#, C#, G#. A major cannot have a D flat in it. D is the fourth note of the scale, not the third. Sometimes it is feasible to use a flat (or a sharp) in the middle of sharps (or flats), but legibility dictates that you should use only one or the other way with basic majors and minors.

How about a single, and a dual coil, i.e. a bright J to the bridge, and a thumpy humbucker to the neck? There seems to be place for a dual, there.

You can make a Faraday cage from a net, where the eye size dictates the lower frequency limit: the smaller the eye, the higher the f.

A good point, quite often we did machining afterwards, because of this. Printing exact shapes like screw holes is a real pain, no matter with polymers, or metals.