itu

Put the DMM setting to VDC. When you hit the pickup with a magnetic tool like a screwdriver, the voltage raises shortly to the positive side if it is in phase. The DMM may have a min/max function and here it is very handy.

Start with wires. If they and battery are fine, the connectors are the next. It should not be impossible to find the voltage from the circuitry. If the voltage comes to the board, then there may be a failure in the board or the piezo. Piezo is prone to braking, it should not be bent. Please take your time.

If you want to lengthen the delay time a bit, flanger is an option, too. tce SCF costs a bit more and has both (and the PM: EBS copied the idea). I have had few issues with weak bass. A ch/pm/fl through a X-over has been my solution.

Exactly the same situation, except the combo was 200MB. I had one but it was stolen (30 years ago). Love it, a good sounding and tiny work horse (my little pony?). But imperial bolts and nuts, no inserts or hitserts... Still I think that it is a good unit. Was it meant to be in use for +30 years? Maybe not, it is still reasonably easy to repair and it very likely works the next decade.

Pretty much the same as the old Gotoh GB-7.

But there is a Wal Pro, so everything else is non-Pro, isn't it?

I do think that it is the player first, then the bass.

...and that score was made by a pianist, not a bassist... I just have to rewrite it.

Yesterday I got a score of the Sleigh ride, with 5 flats. It took quite some time with double flats etc. I have thought I read quickly, but I think I am not so fast after all...

What are you about to power? If the units are not very power hungry and there are analog units, daisy chain them. You do not need to have one outlet/effect.

Expecting to see a fresh battery somewhere...

Would love to see your measuring tool, that is 0.8 mOhms! I checked few Flukes, and they are able to go down to 0.1 Ohms. Yours have to be special!

Dat is kool! No need for useless controls.

It may be so, that the adhesive contains tiny copper (or silver or similar metal) particles. It is nearly impossible to measure them or their conductivity with simple probes. When you press the tapes together, those particles flatten and the adhesive area between the tapes becomes conductive.

If you keep the volume down, there is no need to change the speaker. If the volume is in need, well...

Yes, I do, his Brown Bass is 30.75". But have you ever tried similar? It feels surprisingly long, as the strap is attached to the end of the fretboard (to the other side, though). If that had a 35" scale, even Stan the Man might have problems reaching the half position.

The wood itself is pretty cheap. It is a bit harder to find quality wood, that is dried for instrument building. Try Mad Inter and similar companies. Individual parts do not cost that much, but when you put everything together, the total cost may surprise you.

What is the issue with the Lakland? NTMB is there and coil tap is probably just a DPDT switch. The diagram also tells us that that the middle switch is done by adding a capacitors to the brown wire of the M pot via a switch (my guess: another DPDT). NTMB-L could be NTMB-Lakland, couldn't it?

I will. There is this Yahaya Allan Holdsworth unit that may be able to produce several delays, but the unit is rare and costs a fortune. Let's see...

The big (!) issue here is to produce delays that are short enough. As sound travels 340 m/s, and the dimensions of the double bass are quite small, the delay times have to be minute. These are very rough approximations: 1 ms = 1 ft 1.1 ms = 1.1 ft BBDs (bucket brigade delays) are able to go down to around 20 - 30 ms, and digital systems have certain latency. Latency can be "fixed" indirectly by cutting the direct signal. But: very long latency is not easy for the player if the direct signal is cut (and one signal is also lost). Has anyone played with a MIDI system which tries to detect the lowest notes through a pickup? It is really hard, like playing a pipe organ which has long latency. If the long latency is a problem - and it is with BBDs - a digital system may work better. If the latency is well under 10 ms, it is far easier to play through the effects system with the direct signal. Another problem is the amount of delays. One delay equals only one dimension. Double bass has many: thickness, length, width... With three delays it is possible to try to imitate only the first three reverberations of the main three dimensions. But this is a start...

Take a look at the Alembic Stanley Clarke signature model. If your hands are on a length-challenged side and you are shorter than 6 foot 10, the lowest notes are slightly hard to reach. I think that that "strap button @ 12th fret" is pretty common for a reason. I do agree that there is no singlecut that I like. It seems to be possible to make a singlecut, but I would love to see one that will stand time. Someone could do a serious project and refine the shape to something similar like how double bass looks like today.

https://bartolini.net/wiring-diagrams/

I am trying to imitate the first reverberations of a double bass, if this clarfies the amount of delays.