Aidan63

big difference is that private purchases from EU countries may attract duty so buy your sought after 2nd hand basses now; even if you don't end up paying duty it's sure to slow things down as the couriers get to grips with it all and they will I am sure err on side of caution so they don't get lumbered with the tax bill. I bought a bass from Norway a couple of months back and confused EEA and EU and today got a bill for several hundred quid as a result; my fault for not doing due diligence; nice bass though 😀

but that's a £300 Squier isn't it ? Some Fenders, and copies, particularly Japan made natural finishes look great even with 3 and 4 piece bodies so obviously some care has gone onto matching the body to appear like it's 2 piece or even 1 piece, and the same applies to many other Japanese made brands; the more you pay the more you'd expect that to be done; £1200 isn't budget price point except in context of USA made version being 2 or 3 times the price. Often the basses on Ebay you see are the 'ugly' ones that leave you thinking 'I hope it plays great cos it looks pants', but it's only us who are up close and personal and really care about this level of detail, the audience only care about the playing of the instrument, and really good musicians can make pretty much anything sound great

listening to the recording watching the Emojis dancing put a big smile on my face, easily pleased me; great work Andy

Many thanks for a smooth and bargainous transaction 😃 Simon sold me a tidy Marshall reverb pedal, nice price and well packaged in original box complete with the instruction booklet which I wasn't expecting so super deal

the Ebay code thing works well, the Paypal payment is held until the collector gives the seller the code which they then put into Ebay which then actions the dispatch and, delivered stages and frees the payment to the sellers account. I have bought 3 or 4 things off Ebay this way, and I haven't even collected them myself, I just made sure the person collecting on my behalf had the code to pass on and in one case I gave the seller the code over the phone while the pallet company were loading it onto their truck (it was a gearbox, rebuilding them is what I do); if you use the phone for everything then you can do it by QR codes which is pretty quick and automatic and difficult to fake. I don't know exactly how it works for cash on collection all my purchases have been paid for with Paypal. Ebay have clearly listened to some of the feedback that their regular surveys collect; I do find it odd that there is such a down on that platform on here, it seems to me too many people (not just on here it seems to be a universal attitude in this country) expect everything for free (nothing is free) and want that they should be able to buy cheap and sell high but no business should be able to cover their costs or make a profit to be able to invest in the future; you can see that attitude in the for sale section in the 'I want what I paid for it' line, why shouldn't you pay for ownership if you buy it and play it but sell it on for whatever reason, there should be a cost of ownership otherwise they aren't musical instruments (and related kit) they are just investment pieces owned for willy waving rights.

by the serial number it looks correct, translucent teal, maple neck, 3EQ, single pickup, black guard, made in 2005

I find with most 34" scale basses and fender or fender style headstocks with a bbot or similar bridge, that you get some wound string on the E post with most brands of FW strings, I have learnt not to worry about it; I've got LaBellas on my P at the moment and the silk wrap stops exactly at the point the string touches the post, but all the other brands have more string on the post than that, and they are fitted with 2 1/2 to 3 winds on the post. Mikro is 726mm, 28.6" scale, I fitted Roto short scale strings, flats and tapewounds, the string was on the E post about 1/3 of a turn, didn't break; the Roto flats have an issue with ringing sharp on initial attack and then settling to pitch, I believe it's a common issue with all their short scale strings, Scott Whitley has previously written about it

David bought my MIJ Precision and has had to patiently wait, through lockdown till now, to finally get to play with it as I delivered it to his niece at the end of floods in late Feb in Shrewsbury just before lockdown. He's happy now as he can rest his JV and do some work on that with something pretty similar to hand. Enjoy. Great buyer.

Tor sold me his lovely Passion II, shipped out with UPS, the instrument did a small multi-country european tour, spending a lot of time in Cologne and Essex before finally arriving in Wales. It was worth the the wait, it's a beaut, and great dealing with Tor, all good, thank you

Are the settings on the basses and the amp the same or did you tweak the settings slightly to get 'your' sound ?

Please can anyone elaborate as to how and where the serial number on a MIJ and MIK Tokai T-bird were marked ? Trying to find out if one I'm interested in is from the 90s or early 2000s or is a much later MIC one any information gratefully received, thank you. I've waded through Google images and various sites about Tokai serial numbers plus as many threads as I could narrow down to the subject on here without finding definitive information.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADHESIVE-BACKED-NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-RUBBER-SHEET-VARIOUS-SIZES-THICKNESSES/254162194616?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=553513281525&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 this was one of the previous posts about this subject https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/331354-nordymute/#comments

I find this type of mute doesn't mess up the intonation like foam stuffed under can, the one I made doesn't touch the body when fitted

Had one, one of the early butterscotch blonde ones, it was great, nice neck and not light light, a shade under 9lb and well balanced, very pretty too

So what's the betting we see a '60 stackpot Jazz soon in a certain Shed near Leeds 😃

Was maple fretboard with blocks available on a Jazz in 1969 ? I thought that was a early 70's onwards thing

Ariane Cap's Music Theory for the bass player is a pretty good primer, with videos online to support the book, exercises and tests to check you are understanding and playing not just reading and skimming

Hipshot HB7s aren't exactly the same screw holes as the Squier tuners, they look the same as the MIM tuners but they aren't, close but not close enough so you have to fill the holes with cocktail sticks and wood glue and then the HB7s fit fine once you predrill new holes, and the change is invisible, but if you want to revert to Squier tuners say when selling you'll have to do the same again

is the maple neck a one piece neck with truss rod in the back or a 2 piece with separate fretboard, if one piece probably better to get a neck made, maybe ask Status ? I recently bought a Jazz with Status fretless neck and it is superb, great tone and great to play. I did a defret on a mini Jazz some years ago, biggest problem was the lack of choice of strings for short scale fretless I couldn't find anyone in the UK offering epoxy board work, there must be someone, just not easy to find, same with suitable epoxy but information seems sparse. I don't do FB so may be constrained by that sometimes

I figured I'd be better off working through Ariane's course on SBL and working through her book in addition rather than doing Scott's add on at high cost course; there's so much on the normal SBL to do without buying more courses, which was the whole point of SBL originally I looked at the course once and am still getting almost daily emails about it, I only really looked to see if it was $200 or $150

so will BD replace it or will they just go with LaBella's response and say not their problem

Fender spec (depending on pickups it does vary) is 3.1mm E to 2.4mm G so try starting with both pickups at that and then adjust the bridge pickup to balance with the neck and then adjust to find best balance between strings, A string is often hardest to get balanced with a Jazz pickup in my experience, the Entwhistle pickups with adjustable pole pieces worked well for that just moving the pole peices 1/4 to half a turn did the trick I've recently moved my pickups further away on one instrument and got a to my ear better sound without much loss of volume (P bass 3.9-3.6mm starting height recommended by one UK pickup maker) It can depend on strings as well, I tend to nickel flats 45-105 Trial and error using you ear, there is no definitive right height

if he relists it then its his mate shill bidding trying to land a mug punter between them, worth reporting, ebay can check the history

studded back for comfort