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CameronJ

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Everything posted by CameronJ

  1. This is the full standalone Ojai R30 PSU, not the expansion kit. I’ve upgraded to the Zuma R300 and I don’t need 2 power supplies! In excellent condition including everything you’d get in the box when brand new. This was used to power an HX Stomp and a load of analog effects, which it did without breaking a sweat. These really are some of the best PSUs on the market. They’re pretty enough to proudly mount on the top of your board, too! UK postage included in the price.
  2. Up somewhat reluctantly is my Yamaha CP73, selling as it simply isn’t getting enough use to justify keeping. That, and I’ve just bought a load of pricey camera gear so I need to balance the books Purchased from Anderton’s a few months ago. Full disclosure - it had a faulty key when new so it was returned to Andertons who had it repaired and serviced at their Yamaha Service Centre. It now operates flawlessly and as you can see is in near mint condition. I was initially in the market for a Nord Electro, however after doing a bit of research I realised the CP73 would be better for my needs. It’s very Nord-like in its layout and operation but the clinching factors for me were the built-in audio interface, iOS compatibility (with volume level control for USB audio), pitch/mod sticks and both unbalanced 1/4” outs and balanced XLR outs. Oh and stereo audio inputs on 1/4” jacks with a dedicated level control knob, so you can hook up a second board directly (or anything that outputs 1/4” line level signal - I had a Bluetooth audio receiver permanently plugged in and powered by the onboard USB A socket) and have the audio pass through to the main outs on the CP73. Good luck finding those features on the Nord! Comes with USB cable and UK mains IEC power cable, packed in the original (though a bit tatty) box. UK shipping included. Here is the Yamaha product page with full specs, and all other relevant info: https://uk.yamaha.com/en/products/music_production/stagekeyboards/cp88_73/index.html#product-tabs
  3. Ah, of course! In my excitement I actually forgot that a strap tends to be attached to a bass... Not a whole lot of benefit to adding a wireless bug system then, unless you regularly remove and reattach your strap.
  4. Now what would it be like if you used a Boss WL20 or similar bug type wireless into the Backbeat’s bass input? Then you’d only have the headphone cable to worry about! Hmmm...
  5. Buy a good set of speakers without inbuilt Bluetooth and just plug in a Bluetooth receiver! I use one of these constantly plugged in to power so I don’t have to worry about the battery: https://www.absolutemusic.co.uk/blackstar-tone-link-bluetooth-audio-receiver.html?source=shopping&sku=bsrtonelink&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EusJM4ZYwDwcZIXRGkuG9m2r2sIRPcTa2bkIV92rPno97FpfSncmS8aAubsEALw_wcB Of course, with most normal desktop speakers, you’d then lose the ability to have a computer or other device plugged via a wired connection at the same time. If that’s essential, I’d look at something like this: https://www.andertons.co.uk/kali-audio-mv-bt-high-resolution-bluetooth-receiver The Kali Audio receiver has an extra 3.5mm Aux input so you get the best of both worlds from your speaker set up.
  6. You’ll notice in both of the posts you’ve quoted, scale length is mentioned as a significant factor. You’ll also, I’m sure, have noticed that was one of the first factors I listed in my post. Both quotes list other factors as having an impact on the issue, which I am wholeheartedly in agreement with. I shall remain quick to dismiss the argument that a P pickup in traditional layout is “useless 90% of the time” on a low B. That statement may be one player’s experience with their own personal basses, amps and other gear - but it is absolutely not a universal truth.
  7. Him, and a ton of other well respected bass brands. Hölger (head of Sandberg) only reverses the P pup in his PJ5 or PM5 (VT5 or VM5) basses as he prefers the way the P blends sonically with the bridge pup in that config. On their standard P5s (VS5) the pickup is in “traditional” position.
  8. That is a hilariously blanket statement. The number of variables is huge. String type, scale length, pickup construction, tone knob (or EQ) position, body construction, plucking hand position and technique. And that’s before you get into the genre of music you’re playing and what the setup of other instruments is like, mix etc. As an aside, it always makes me laugh on bass sale adverts when people ask, “what’s the B string like?” Considering how vastly a change of strings can affect both the feel and tone of a bass, and since you’re likely to change the strings to a set of your preference once you’ve bought the bass anyway, it feels like a pointless question to me. Thankfully, this madness is rarely seen on Basschat!
  9. Ah, I thought that was a bargain until I remembered you’ll be getting VAT added on by customs once it hits UK shores...!
  10. I guess a big argument for going the USA route over the Indonesian Skylines is a theoretical guarantee that you’ll be getting a perfect bass in every way, since it will be hand built by highly skilled craftsmen. Except that isn’t necessarily true. The USA folk can make mistakes too. If I remember correctly, @Quatschmacher had a bit of an issue with a custom order? Was it the neck pocket?
  11. 100% agree. Let’s not forget that Apple products are made in China, yet they are regarded as being a premium product with a price to match. All of the Lakland Skylines I’ve laid my hands on have had top quality fit & finish. I would have serious difficulty justifying spending 2 or 3 times more for a USA version.
  12. I remember calling Alpher about this very bass a while back! Lovely thing. I doubt it will hang around long.
  13. You’d think the same argument would apply to oil/satin vs poly/gloss finish on bodies then, but I’ve never seen that myself. And I I can’t say I’ve ever seen a guitar manufacturer claim a poly finished neck to be a premium feature. In reality it’s down to personal taste and whether it fits the feel and aesthetic of the rest of the instrument. You’re far more likely to see a gloss bodied guitar with an oil neck than a satin bodied guitar with a poly neck. The latter would seem a bit weird to me. Obviously nobody would bat an eyelid at poly on poly and oil on oil.
  14. For what it’s worth, my near £2.5k Xotic XJ has an oiled neck finish. I much prefer it to poly, personally. Oil vs. poly necks can’t be a reason for stating one bass is more premium than another, surely?
  15. Exactly the tone settings that had me grinning most when I first tried one of these!
  16. Last year I was briefly in the market for a Lakland DJ5 in the natural finish, and GuitarGuitar were my first port of call, since they tend to have a good stock of Laklands. It looked like they had several in stock across their various branches so I thought I’d be cheeky and ask if they’d be able to send me photos and weights of all the natural DJ5s they had in stock. To my surprise they did it, no questions asked! So I could choose the bass which had the nicest grain and/or weighed the least. They even then shipped my favourite of the DJ5s to my nearest branch (in exchange for a small refundable deposit) so I could test it in the flesh. At no point was I pressured to purchase the bass. Have to say, I was most impressed by that level of customer service. And I didn’t even buy it in the end
  17. I’ve got a Sansamp pedal incoming. Bought from a nice fella called Mick on Facebook. Should be here any day now...
  18. A lot of bass for not a lot of money! GLWTS sir.
  19. Late to the party but yep, definitely Dunlop Flats. Good strings, well priced!
  20. Wow. I count at least 15 of these B-stock MetroExpresses on eBay from the same seller in Germany, with varying degrees of scratch/dent/dings, imperfections in the finish, one with a fingerboard that looks like its edge was dragged across concrete briefly BEFORE the frets were installed, and one with a snapped string tree. My goodness
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