mybass

[quote name='molan' timestamp='1381926880' post='2245548'] I've been looking at some MarkBass combos for rehearsal use and wondered if anyone knows of significant differences between the original combo head which was replaced by the II series and then the III? From what I can make out the only difference between the II & III is a pre/post eq DI option but not sure about what the LMII offered over the original heads? Must a MarkBass guru here somewhere [/quote] From Markbass site: The incredible international success of the Little Mark II has inspired this new, updated and upgraded version! The new DI output features a pre-post EQ switch and output level control, so you can optimize the signal you send to the mixer or recording unit. All this with the same compact size and weight of its famous predecessor!

[quote name='mSz' timestamp='1381791925' post='2243969'] Nice, It's a very beautiful part of Poland. I guess the most convenient would be to take a flight to Warsaw and then hire a van to get to Suwalki. It will take around 4 hours. [/quote] I think its Easy Jet that fly to a much closer airport just across the border in Lithuania, cheap tickets but be sure to add your items of luggage when buying tickets online.

[quote name='Graham' timestamp='1381756873' post='2243184'] Any good ones that don't cost a fortune? I'm trying to get a price for shipping a bass within the UK (Sussex to Edinburgh) and all the couriers I've spoken to are either expensive or don't offer enough insurance: DHL - expensive (about £85) UPS - not as expensive as DHL, but still high (about £60) and a nightmare on the phone Fedex - don't deal with the general public City Link - only insure up to £100 for damage and £1000 for loss Parcelforce - not spoken to them, but I believe don't insure musical instruments My Hermes - don't ship musical instrument Any other suggestions? [/quote] Look at Interlink. Excellent delivery and email updates to me on a delivered (£120) parcel. So I used them to collect a 2x10 cabinet at 23kg weight. Collected and delivered to my buyer within 22 hours at £250 insurance cost £26 minus a fiver for first time customer.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1381511881' post='2240170'] No problem. I suspect Yamaha might not stock the individual connector parts but only a complete cable assembly, though the only way to be sure is to call them. As for the pins from China, I wouldn't be at all surprised if they are the same parts in the original unit anyway, so if your repair has worked for a few weeks then it may well last for years. One thing about crimp connectors though is that the correct tool should ideally be used for a really reliable joint as a good crimp connection should be gas tight and almost like a 'cold weld'. Unfortunately, a good ratchet crimp tool is usually a bit pricey (£40-ish) so the occasional DIYer can be tempted to use pliers (my hand is up!). In most domestic applications this will be fine, but in a 'rougher' environment (temperature extremes, vibration, shock etc) the connection may not be quite as reliable. What this means in practice is hard to quantify. It might mean the joint lasts only 10 years instead of 25, who knows. If you've already fixed the amp then I'd probably just leave it be. At least you have the spares to fix it again! [/quote] I have emailed a pic of the part across to that Yamaha address you gave me so I will expect either 'don't carry those spares anymore' or as you pointed out, a complete assembly of the wiring loom and connectors. Just wished it had only been the reverb wire! The reverb audibly 'clicks' only at speeds depending on the intensity of the knob setting.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1381616812' post='2241556'] I've got some rather specialised crimp tools and they cost an absolute fortune. Pliers are ok for some connectors but, if you are too heavy handed, it may deform the metal pin so it doesn't snap cleanly into the connector when you're finished. I find that careful soldering of the connection and gentle forming of the pin shape so it fits is the most reliable solution. [/quote] The wire cannot be soldered to these pins, won't take fro some reason.......I have 'forced' the crimp with a simple crimp tool and it seems to have held.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1379694850' post='2215878'] I've bought replacement circuit board parts a few years ago from Yamaha Music Europe GmbH (UK) in Milton Keynes. Tel: 0844-811-1115 Email: [email protected] I telephoned them and a very helpful chap talked me through their spares catalogue using the model number. My component was easy to describe and identify but I guess an emailed photo would help if you do get stuck. Good luck [/quote] flyfisher....thanks for this address...I have only just picked it up today having bought a spare (50 actually) pin via China! Seems to be holding okay but the real part would feel safer. Might contact Yamaha now.

[quote name='dazza14' timestamp='1380792169' post='2230513'] [color=#222222]I play a Squier VM Jazz, I recently wanted to swap the pickups for something a little more "oomphy" than the stock 'Duncan Designed' pickups - the reason being I was being swamped in the mix with two guitars and a drummer on Lucozade! We play punk and reggae, the punk my jazz deals with no problem, whack up the tone and I cut through the mix really nicely, but reggae, when I need more low end it tended to struggle. [/color] [color=#222222]SO... I bought a set of Wilkinson pickups from the bay (I also play a fretless Vintage 'Jaco' bass and the pickups are amazingly responsive, its like the bass is almost twice as loud, so I wanted to get that sound from the Jazz, hence buying the same pups) [/color] [color=#222222]BUT although it has made a difference its still miles behind the Vintage.[/color] [color=#222222]My next port of call is to fiddle with the pickup heights and see what difference this makes but if I do end up going down the route of replacement pickups where should I look?[/color] [color=#222222]I hear amazing things about Wizard (although I also hear they’ve closed down?) and I’ve seen some saucy EMG pickups on e-bay, for £100ish this seems a do-able mod but I thought I’d check with the library of knowledge on here first.[/color] [color=#222222]So, any suggestions?[/color] [color=#222222]Basically I’m after louder pickups that still will keep the character of my sound (and don’t say “turn up ya amp!”)[/color] [/quote] The 'Duncan Designed' are probably a little under par next to the usual Duncan 'vintage' or his modern designed passive and active pups, many of which I've used and fitted into basses for years so maybe a set of those could work out. Also, take a look at Delano JMVC FEs at [url="http://www.delano.de/"]http://www.delano.de/[/url] the ones with the large single pole per string magnets. I've just fitted a jazz set to a fretted bass and (without gigging them yet) they sound the business so I think they are going to sound real good on stage. I do find the same pups a have different 'edge' on a fretless to fretted bass, the metal frets will alter that sound a bit, takes away a little mid range attack on a fretted in a side by side test with same amp settings, so there is this to consider.

Battery test......take a cabinet, plug in a speaker lead to it, take the other end, which has to be a jack plug, place the barrel of the jack plug onto a negative terminal of a 9v battery and then touch the jack tip onto the positive of the battery. All speakers should move outwards and with a very audible 'click'. If you find, say within a 2x10 cabinet, that one speaker moved in and the other outwards, then the speakers are deemed as 'out of phase' with each other and obviously the cabinet has been incorrectly wired within itself. This also applies to two cabinets, all the speakers of both cabinets should move outwards together so they are 'in phase' with each other.

[quote name='silverfoxnik' timestamp='1373537801' post='2138695'] Hi Folks, It's that time of year again when special things are happening or are about to happen; Andy Murray has finally ended the 77 years of hurt, JoseMourinho is back at Chelski, SAF has finally retired and more important than all that of course is the fact that we've finally set a date for the next Bash! So dust off your brilliant basses, your amazing amps, your cacophonous cabs and all your weird / geeky bass FX, and bring it all down to the.. [b]South East Bass Bash No.7[/b] As ever, we've been so inspired by all the other totally brilliant Basschat Bashes that have been happening around the country that we want to see you all again, make a lot of noise, have a brilliant time and raise a few [b]£££s[/b] for good causes! So, for your delectation and enjoyment, here are the details you need to know: Date: [b]Saturday 21 September 2013[/b] Time: [b]10am - 5pm[/b] Venue: [b]Jubilee High School, Surrey, School Lane, Addlestone, Surrey KT15 1TE[/b] Venue link: [url="http://www.jubileehigh.surrey.sch.uk/"][color=#0f72da]Jubilee High School Website[/color][/url] [url="http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?x=504208&y=164434&z=0&sv=KT15+1TE&st=2&pc=KT15+1TE&mapp=map.srf&searchp=ids.srf"][color=#0f72da]MAP LINK[/color][/url] [b]Format:[/b] 1 x general area to set up your gear, plus 1 x quiet room/workshop area with workshops through the day, plus Jamming room, plus cafeteria, plus Raffle [b]Spaces:[/b] The Quiet Room and the Theatre for Workshops The Jamming Room for jamming with drummers (and other strange non-bass playing people) Main Hall (where you can set up your gear) [b]Cost:[/b] [b]£10[/b] Last year, it cost about £185 for the hire of the venue plus an amount for some public liability insurance cover therefore to cover those basic costs, we need to charge £10 per head entrance fee to one and all! [b]Charities:[/b] [u]We will donate all profits[/u] from the day to a worthy cause or two (details to be confirmed): [b]Refreshments[/b] will be available on the day for a small charge of course which will help increase the profits and keep everyone happy! Last year Hamster & Mrs Hamster did all the work on that and have offered to do so again, so many thanks in advance to them! [b]Workshops[/b] As ever, we are looking for offers from people to run workshops...so any ideas/requests are welcomed. [b]Please Help[/b] What would be really helpful from everyone who's interested in participating on the day is: 1. Donations of raffle prizes 2. Ideas/requests for the workshops 3. Volunteers to help out on the day (if needs be) It's always good to know who's coming and what gear they'll be bringing so to get the ball rolling here's a list of the people we know who are coming: [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]1. Hamster - 2. Silverfoxnik - BC Rich Eagle, Schecter Diamond P5, Levinson Blade B15, amp & cab tbc 3. . 4 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. [/font][/color] 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. It'd be great to have loads of people there on the day but the bottom line is that, to make this event pay for itself and to be able to donate something to charity, [b]we need a minimum of 30 people[/b]... So, come on folks; sign up!! Thanks and we look forward to seeing you there silverfoxnik / Hamster / obbm / Happy Jack / [/quote] Might just make it now...

[quote name='whizzzy' timestamp='1379603568' post='2214733'] Maplin sell these sorts of pins for use in their range of pcboard connectors. Have a look at their part numbers YW25C or FY94C. You should be able to extract the old pin from the plug (part of the pin usually latches onto the inside of the housing so use something like a small watchmakers screwdriver to release the latch) and then solder / crimp a new connecting pin onto the wire and then insert it back into the plug assembly. I've managed to make repairs to similar kit in this way. [/quote] Thanks Whizzy n Bertbass. I've found a Maplins in Farnborough to visit if the parts I ordered from the Peeps Republic are the wrong size. I did think of direct solder to the board, a possibility, also the idea of taping the wire wouldn't work well as a hard crimp/solder join is needed on this part.

[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1379524690' post='2213713'] If all else fails you could dispense with the multiway plug and solder the wires directly to the board. [/quote] I did try soldering the wire to the crimp pin but it wouldn't work. I don't know what metal the pin is made of.

I have a Yamaha PA amp in need of minor repair but I can't find parts. I found a wire off the multiway from front of amp controls to the rear board hanging by a couple of strands, discovered when trying to find out why the onboard reverb didn't work. In trying to repair this, I had to extract the tiny, almost 1.5mm wide crimp pin that the wire should connect into (and then that is inserted into the multi 'socket'). Can anyone advise please.... Dealings with Yamaha some years ago on a different matter left me a little deterred from calling them again. One pic has the (now damaged) pin next to the multi which is the bit I need.......maybe Yamaha would have the whole wiring part?

[quote name='lobematt' timestamp='1379434700' post='2212672'] Hey guys, The jazz I got a few years ago was majorly beat up and the tuners were knackered so I replaced them. The new holes didn't quite line up with the old ones so I filled them all and drilled new ones. The screws that came with the tuners didn't really seem to be a great fit but I was keen to get it up and running so just went for it anyway! I've gigged the bass for over a year now and now the screws holding in the tuners are starting to come loose and I've lost one altogether, oops! So my question is what's the best way to fix this properly, would I need to re fill the holes with filler or am I best trying to glue in some tiny dowel and re drill it? Thanks guys! [/quote] Drill hole with smaller diameter than the screw too, in case you hadn't already

[quote name='dasbear69' timestamp='1377674477' post='2190065'] Hi Everyone I own a Maya electric bass (jazz Bass) I use elites groundwound strings love the feel off them and the bass play amazing to me, brought it for £150 6 months ago But when it comes to the sound it is muddy. Was thinking delano and GLOCKENKLANG preamp but your looking at near £300 for that. Does anyone have a cheaper solution? [/quote] maybe Seymour Duncan passive or active jazz pups, no preamp at first to see if it sounds good enough without one.

[quote name='spongebob' timestamp='1373574560' post='2139287'] I bought a pre-2012 US Standard Jazz about a month ago. Brand new, old stock. Upon purchase, it was clear the neck needed adjustment - like playing a banana! Had a full set up....but within a couple of weeks, the neck had returned to the same position it started from. Relief through the roof. Took it back and it was tweaked again. But here we are a week later, and it's back there yet again! I've never had this before.....do I have a problem? I can go on adjusting on a weekly basis forever?? [/quote] Could be the fret slots were not the right width for the actual frets. I think this was the problem on a Fender neck that I had problems with. I read many years ago that if for any reason the frets are 'forced' by a press/machine into slots that are slightly too narrow, the neck can be 'forced', possible back bow but definite unstablility. My Fender neck would not settle in and caused problems on a tour. A replacement neck has sorted this and the old neck now de-fretted may become a fretless.