-
Posts
1,342 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Everything posted by mybass
-
[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1379694850' post='2215878'] I've bought replacement circuit board parts a few years ago from Yamaha Music Europe GmbH (UK) in Milton Keynes. Tel: 0844-811-1115 Email: [email protected] I telephoned them and a very helpful chap talked me through their spares catalogue using the model number. My component was easy to describe and identify but I guess an emailed photo would help if you do get stuck. Good luck [/quote] flyfisher....thanks for this address...I have only just picked it up today having bought a spare (50 actually) pin via China! Seems to be holding okay but the real part would feel safer. Might contact Yamaha now.
-
[quote name='dazza14' timestamp='1380792169' post='2230513'] [color=#222222]I play a Squier VM Jazz, I recently wanted to swap the pickups for something a little more "oomphy" than the stock 'Duncan Designed' pickups - the reason being I was being swamped in the mix with two guitars and a drummer on Lucozade! We play punk and reggae, the punk my jazz deals with no problem, whack up the tone and I cut through the mix really nicely, but reggae, when I need more low end it tended to struggle. [/color] [color=#222222]SO... I bought a set of Wilkinson pickups from the bay (I also play a fretless Vintage 'Jaco' bass and the pickups are amazingly responsive, its like the bass is almost twice as loud, so I wanted to get that sound from the Jazz, hence buying the same pups) [/color] [color=#222222]BUT although it has made a difference its still miles behind the Vintage.[/color] [color=#222222]My next port of call is to fiddle with the pickup heights and see what difference this makes but if I do end up going down the route of replacement pickups where should I look?[/color] [color=#222222]I hear amazing things about Wizard (although I also hear they’ve closed down?) and I’ve seen some saucy EMG pickups on e-bay, for £100ish this seems a do-able mod but I thought I’d check with the library of knowledge on here first.[/color] [color=#222222]So, any suggestions?[/color] [color=#222222]Basically I’m after louder pickups that still will keep the character of my sound (and don’t say “turn up ya amp!”)[/color] [/quote] The 'Duncan Designed' are probably a little under par next to the usual Duncan 'vintage' or his modern designed passive and active pups, many of which I've used and fitted into basses for years so maybe a set of those could work out. Also, take a look at Delano JMVC FEs at [url="http://www.delano.de/"]http://www.delano.de/[/url] the ones with the large single pole per string magnets. I've just fitted a jazz set to a fretted bass and (without gigging them yet) they sound the business so I think they are going to sound real good on stage. I do find the same pups a have different 'edge' on a fretless to fretted bass, the metal frets will alter that sound a bit, takes away a little mid range attack on a fretted in a side by side test with same amp settings, so there is this to consider.
-
Battery test......take a cabinet, plug in a speaker lead to it, take the other end, which has to be a jack plug, place the barrel of the jack plug onto a negative terminal of a 9v battery and then touch the jack tip onto the positive of the battery. All speakers should move outwards and with a very audible 'click'. If you find, say within a 2x10 cabinet, that one speaker moved in and the other outwards, then the speakers are deemed as 'out of phase' with each other and obviously the cabinet has been incorrectly wired within itself. This also applies to two cabinets, all the speakers of both cabinets should move outwards together so they are 'in phase' with each other.
-
SOLD ... £130 2x10 converted cab, Markbass speakers loaded.
mybass replied to mybass's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
[quote name='DuncDisorderly' timestamp='1379796942' post='2216927'] Hi, What is the cab capable of handling power wise? [/quote] Rightly asked questions to be answered...... Power and impedance same as Markbass cab at 8 ohm 400 watt with single jackplug on rear. The original Behringer plate is still in situ. As it has Markbass speakers and as far as I am aware, not having (or having) a crossover/horn has no relevance to cab impedance. Can I also add that courier cost is not included in the price. -
SOLD ... £130 2x10 converted cab, Markbass speakers loaded.
mybass replied to mybass's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1374949528' post='2155190'] PRICE SHOULD READ £130. (could look at part trade for a markbass LM3) Had a would be buyer for the cab but lost contact so back up for a new 'basschat' price.... Two 10" Markbass speakers now installed into this Behringer cabinet. NO tweeter/crossover, direct speaker sound. This cab sounds really good alongside my Markbass 2x10 cabs. The cab itself is not made from the high quality wood that Markbass use hence any sonic difference but it is an excellent sound with slightly more bass end so maybe a bit 'louder' than a MB 2x10 Traveller. It is a bigger cab than the 2x10 Traveller. It has large side handles and two recessed edge wheels. Weighs about 22kg. Cab is 'carpet' covered, couple of tears glued down but pretty good nick otherwise. (I did find a courier price for UK at about £20 but that price would need checking). [/quote] bump up the volume -
South East Bass Bash No.7, Surrey, Saturday 21st September 2013
mybass replied to silverfoxnik's topic in Events
[quote name='silverfoxnik' timestamp='1373537801' post='2138695'] Hi Folks, It's that time of year again when special things are happening or are about to happen; Andy Murray has finally ended the 77 years of hurt, JoseMourinho is back at Chelski, SAF has finally retired and more important than all that of course is the fact that we've finally set a date for the next Bash! So dust off your brilliant basses, your amazing amps, your cacophonous cabs and all your weird / geeky bass FX, and bring it all down to the.. [b]South East Bass Bash No.7[/b] As ever, we've been so inspired by all the other totally brilliant Basschat Bashes that have been happening around the country that we want to see you all again, make a lot of noise, have a brilliant time and raise a few [b]£££s[/b] for good causes! So, for your delectation and enjoyment, here are the details you need to know: Date: [b]Saturday 21 September 2013[/b] Time: [b]10am - 5pm[/b] Venue: [b]Jubilee High School, Surrey, School Lane, Addlestone, Surrey KT15 1TE[/b] Venue link: [url="http://www.jubileehigh.surrey.sch.uk/"][color=#0f72da]Jubilee High School Website[/color][/url] [url="http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?x=504208&y=164434&z=0&sv=KT15+1TE&st=2&pc=KT15+1TE&mapp=map.srf&searchp=ids.srf"][color=#0f72da]MAP LINK[/color][/url] [b]Format:[/b] 1 x general area to set up your gear, plus 1 x quiet room/workshop area with workshops through the day, plus Jamming room, plus cafeteria, plus Raffle [b]Spaces:[/b] The Quiet Room and the Theatre for Workshops The Jamming Room for jamming with drummers (and other strange non-bass playing people) Main Hall (where you can set up your gear) [b]Cost:[/b] [b]£10[/b] Last year, it cost about £185 for the hire of the venue plus an amount for some public liability insurance cover therefore to cover those basic costs, we need to charge £10 per head entrance fee to one and all! [b]Charities:[/b] [u]We will donate all profits[/u] from the day to a worthy cause or two (details to be confirmed): [b]Refreshments[/b] will be available on the day for a small charge of course which will help increase the profits and keep everyone happy! Last year Hamster & Mrs Hamster did all the work on that and have offered to do so again, so many thanks in advance to them! [b]Workshops[/b] As ever, we are looking for offers from people to run workshops...so any ideas/requests are welcomed. [b]Please Help[/b] What would be really helpful from everyone who's interested in participating on the day is: 1. Donations of raffle prizes 2. Ideas/requests for the workshops 3. Volunteers to help out on the day (if needs be) It's always good to know who's coming and what gear they'll be bringing so to get the ball rolling here's a list of the people we know who are coming: [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]1. Hamster - 2. Silverfoxnik - BC Rich Eagle, Schecter Diamond P5, Levinson Blade B15, amp & cab tbc 3. . 4 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. [/font][/color] 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. It'd be great to have loads of people there on the day but the bottom line is that, to make this event pay for itself and to be able to donate something to charity, [b]we need a minimum of 30 people[/b]... So, come on folks; sign up!! Thanks and we look forward to seeing you there silverfoxnik / Hamster / obbm / Happy Jack / [/quote] Might just make it now... -
[quote name='whizzzy' timestamp='1379603568' post='2214733'] Maplin sell these sorts of pins for use in their range of pcboard connectors. Have a look at their part numbers YW25C or FY94C. You should be able to extract the old pin from the plug (part of the pin usually latches onto the inside of the housing so use something like a small watchmakers screwdriver to release the latch) and then solder / crimp a new connecting pin onto the wire and then insert it back into the plug assembly. I've managed to make repairs to similar kit in this way. [/quote] Thanks Whizzy n Bertbass. I've found a Maplins in Farnborough to visit if the parts I ordered from the Peeps Republic are the wrong size. I did think of direct solder to the board, a possibility, also the idea of taping the wire wouldn't work well as a hard crimp/solder join is needed on this part.
-
[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1379524690' post='2213713'] If all else fails you could dispense with the multiway plug and solder the wires directly to the board. [/quote] I did try soldering the wire to the crimp pin but it wouldn't work. I don't know what metal the pin is made of.
-
I have a Yamaha PA amp in need of minor repair but I can't find parts. I found a wire off the multiway from front of amp controls to the rear board hanging by a couple of strands, discovered when trying to find out why the onboard reverb didn't work. In trying to repair this, I had to extract the tiny, almost 1.5mm wide crimp pin that the wire should connect into (and then that is inserted into the multi 'socket'). Can anyone advise please.... Dealings with Yamaha some years ago on a different matter left me a little deterred from calling them again. One pic has the (now damaged) pin next to the multi which is the bit I need.......maybe Yamaha would have the whole wiring part?
-
[quote name='lobematt' timestamp='1379434700' post='2212672'] Hey guys, The jazz I got a few years ago was majorly beat up and the tuners were knackered so I replaced them. The new holes didn't quite line up with the old ones so I filled them all and drilled new ones. The screws that came with the tuners didn't really seem to be a great fit but I was keen to get it up and running so just went for it anyway! I've gigged the bass for over a year now and now the screws holding in the tuners are starting to come loose and I've lost one altogether, oops! So my question is what's the best way to fix this properly, would I need to re fill the holes with filler or am I best trying to glue in some tiny dowel and re drill it? Thanks guys! [/quote] Drill hole with smaller diameter than the screw too, in case you hadn't already
-
SOLD ... £130 2x10 converted cab, Markbass speakers loaded.
mybass replied to mybass's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1374949528' post='2155190'] PRICE SHOULD READ £130. (Possible part trade for a markbass LM3) Had a would be buyer for the cab but lost contact so back up for a new price.... Behringer 'Ultra' 2x10 cabinet with two 10" Markbass speakers now installed. Very good sound. NO tweeter/crossover. This is not to be confused with a real Markbass 2x10 of course but it makes a pretty good racket compared to my real Markbass stuff. The cab itself is not made from the high quality wood that Markbass use hence the sound difference for a start but it is a very good sound, slightly more bass end than a 2x10 Traveller. It is a bigger cab than the 2x10 Traveller. It has large side handles and two recessed edge wheels. Weighs about 22kg. Cab is 'carpet' covered, couple of tears for me to glue down but pretty good nick otherwise. (I did find a courier price for UK at about £20 but that price would need checking). [/quote] BUMP -
-
[quote name='dasbear69' timestamp='1377674477' post='2190065'] Hi Everyone I own a Maya electric bass (jazz Bass) I use elites groundwound strings love the feel off them and the bass play amazing to me, brought it for £150 6 months ago But when it comes to the sound it is muddy. Was thinking delano and GLOCKENKLANG preamp but your looking at near £300 for that. Does anyone have a cheaper solution? [/quote] maybe Seymour Duncan passive or active jazz pups, no preamp at first to see if it sounds good enough without one.
-
SOLD ... £130 2x10 converted cab, Markbass speakers loaded.
mybass replied to mybass's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1374949528' post='2155190'] PRICE SHOULD READ £175. Possible trade against a markbass LM3 (I cannot edit the "price or Trade Value" box). I took a Behringer 'Ultra' 2x10 cab (blown speakers) and stripped it out, no tweeter/crossover. I've mounted 2 Markbass (B&C) speakers in it for an 8 ohm cab and it sounds.... really good. Not to be confused with a real Markbass 2x10 of course but it makes a pretty good racket compared to my real Markbass stuff. The cab itself is not made from the high quality wood that Markbass use hence the sound difference for a start but it is a very good sound close up. It is a bigger cab than the 2x10 Traveller. It has large side handles and two recessed edge wheels. Weighs about 22kg. Cab is 'carpet' covered, couple of tears for me to glue down but pretty good nick otherwise. A decent 2x10 for a budget and to couple with a 15" cab. [/quote]bump -
SOLD ... £130 2x10 converted cab, Markbass speakers loaded.
mybass replied to mybass's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1374949528' post='2155190'] I WILL BE IN THE TEWKSBURY / EVESHAM VALE AREA FROM 14th AUG----18th AUG PRICE SHOULD READ £175. (I cannot edit the "price or Trade Value" box). I took a Behringer 'Ultra' 2x10 cab (blown speakers) and stripped it out, no tweeter/crossover. I've mounted 2 Markbass (B&C) speakers in it for an 8 ohm cab and it sounds.... really good. Not to be confused with a real Markbass 2x10 of course but it makes a pretty good racket compared to my real Markbass stuff. The cab itself is not made from the high quality wood that Markbass use hence the sound difference for a start but it is a very good sound close up. It is a bigger cab than the 2x10 Traveller. It has large side handles and two recessed edge wheels. Weighs about 22kg. Cab is 'carpet' covered, couple of tears for me to glue down but pretty good nick otherwise. A decent 2x10 for a budget and to couple with a 15" cab. [/quote] BUMP -
SOLD ... £130 2x10 converted cab, Markbass speakers loaded.
mybass replied to mybass's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1374949528' post='2155190'] PRICE SHOULD READ £200. (I cannot edit the "price or Trade Value" box). I took a Behringer 'Ultra' 2x10 cab (blown speakers) and stripped it out, no tweeter/crossover. I've mounted 2 Markbass (B&C) speakers in it for an 8 ohm cab and it sounds.... really good. Not to be confused with a real Markbass 2x10 of course but it makes a pretty good racket compared to my real Markbass stuff. The cab itself is not made from the high quality wood that Markbass use hence the sound difference for a start but it is a very good sound close up. It is a bigger cab than the 2x10 Traveller. It has large side handles and two recessed edge wheels. Weighs about 22kg. Cab is 'carpet' covered, couple of tears for me to glue down but pretty good nick otherwise. A decent 2x10 for a budget and to couple with a 15" cab. [/quote] Bump -
-
PRICE SHOULD READ £130. (could look at part trade for a markbass LM3) 8 Ohm ... 400 watt ... single jack input left open on the back using the original Behringer plate. Had a would be buyer for the cab but lost contact so back up for a new 'basschat' price.... Two 10" Markbass speakers now installed into this Behringer cabinet. NO tweeter/crossover, direct speaker sound. This cab sounds really good alongside my Markbass 2x10 cabs. The cab itself is not made from the high quality wood that Markbass use hence any sonic difference but it is an excellent sound with slightly more bass end so maybe a bit 'louder' than a MB 2x10 Traveller. It is a bigger cab than the 2x10 Traveller. It has large side handles and two recessed edge wheels. Weighs about 22kg. Cab is 'carpet' covered, couple of tears glued down but pretty good nick otherwise. (I did find a courier price for UK at about £20 but that price would need checking).
-
[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1364663247' post='2029418'] Keen interest from a few people but no sale at the old price....must really try and get this moved on so a price drop to £650. Might be an old soft case in the garage I can throw in too. Mp3 sample is available by email. This recording is direct off the bass guitar, through a Yamaha desk, no effects or compression used, just the straight DI signal. [b]Specifications:… [/b] [b]Lightweight 6 lb 12 oz. SINGLE piece Swamp Ash body wood finished with eight coats of "Tru Oil". [/b] [b]Three piece rock maple wood neck. [/b] [b]34" Scale.[/b] [b]Nut width @ 1.5+ inches/almost 40mm. ( A little over a Jazz bass width)...[/b] [b]12th "fret" @ 2.1"/55mm.[/b] [b]Neck depth: Nut … almost 1"/ 25mm …. [/b] [b]12th fret..almost 1 1/8th" 27mm.[/b] [b]Ebony fingerboard @ 6.5mm middle thickness.[/b] [b]Approx. compound radius of 10" nut end to higher end 15".[/b] [b]Fingerboard has had a coat of Yamaha Bore oil.[/b] [b]Large 3mm side "black" abalone dots.[/b] [b]Note..side position dots are where the fret(s) would have been.[/b] [b]The 1st and 2nd octave position have double dots to be played centre of these two dots.[/b] [b]The neck is a bolt on design, joined by four recessed alan key head bolts that thread through the body[/b] [b]into brass threaded inserts in the neck wood.[/b] [b]Maple neck and headstock rear finish is Danish oil.[/b] [b]Headstock front finish is "Tru oil".[/b] [b]Headstock rear has a Walnut veneer.[/b] [b]Seymour Duncan "Active Jazz AJJ" pickups. (Single battery power quoted on SD site as approx. 1000 hours battery life).[/b] [b]Tone and Volume controls for each pickup.[/b] [b]Stereo barrel jack output, engages battery on jack plug input.[/b] [b]Schaller black "3D" bridge used for string width, height and intonation setting. Currently approx. 19 mm string spacing.[/b] [b]Schaller black machine heads.[/b] [b]Currently strung with "Galli" nickel strings of 105/85/65/45 gauge.[/b] [/quote] Bump for price drop
-
[quote name='spongebob' timestamp='1373574560' post='2139287'] I bought a pre-2012 US Standard Jazz about a month ago. Brand new, old stock. Upon purchase, it was clear the neck needed adjustment - like playing a banana! Had a full set up....but within a couple of weeks, the neck had returned to the same position it started from. Relief through the roof. Took it back and it was tweaked again. But here we are a week later, and it's back there yet again! I've never had this before.....do I have a problem? I can go on adjusting on a weekly basis forever?? [/quote] Could be the fret slots were not the right width for the actual frets. I think this was the problem on a Fender neck that I had problems with. I read many years ago that if for any reason the frets are 'forced' by a press/machine into slots that are slightly too narrow, the neck can be 'forced', possible back bow but definite unstablility. My Fender neck would not settle in and caused problems on a tour. A replacement neck has sorted this and the old neck now de-fretted may become a fretless.
-
[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1373639714' post='2140060'] What BidRedX said, but also the bottom of the slot is just as important - unevenness or a bit of muck in there causes just as many problems. Could be worth a visit to an acoustic luthier experienced in undersaddles. [/quote] Yes hubrad, I'm thinking the two pickups I've used are old designs and construction and so maybe a complete new system is needed....
-
[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1373633300' post='2139914'] One of the common reasons for uneven response across strings is that the saddle isn't in proper contact along it's full length. Take it out and check that the bottom is flat and there's no visible damage to the transducer below it before looking at swapping any of the electronics [/quote] Yes you are right there BigRedX...I have done this before. Each time I 're-set' the pickup into the bridge I get a different string response. One time it does low volume off the g string, the next time I 'reset' it the g is fine but the E string is low volume. I need to find a pickup that is of a decent thickness/make.
-
I've been having trouble with my fretless Washburn AB 20 under bridge transducer pickup. Uneven string response has dogged this bass for many years so I now want to try and replace the pickup or system. It has a Taylor/Fishman control board that works okay. I've made several calls (uneventful, bordering on quite useless) to Washburn. I have been looking at an Epiphone replacement transducer. Anyone got an acoustic with a really good even response pickup or ideas of a decent replacement? (This Washburn model has a slatted sound hole).
-
Headless 4 String Fretless Unlined + Gigbag...Poss. trade.
mybass replied to mybass's topic in Basses For Sale
[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1359210689' post='1951608'] mP3 soundclip now added. The bass was recorded direct through a Yamaha desk, no effects of compression added, just the straight DI signal. I would be interested in a trade on this bass for a Markbass 3 and Markbass HF 2x10 (single front port, not the Traveller) A four string headless bass with some very nice pieces of wood involved in it's build...... Old mahogany wood on the back with a very nice 'sheen' to it. A very nice piece of black walnut on the top. The neck is a 5 piece maple/wenge 34" scale with a Macassar unlined ebony fingerboard which is excellent for fretless bass with large 3mm side dots. (Macassar is very often used for double bass fingerboards, not quite as 'hard' a sound as black ebony). Two Seymour Duncan pickups (non active) with volume, pan and tone controls. The licensed tuning mechanism with the end string retainer (which is slightly marked) was bought as a 'seconds' unit so I can't say this part is new. (New complete units were extremely expensive when I was looking as opposed to these licensed units). I've built quite a few basses as orders and for myself over the past 18 years as a 'part time luthier', aside from keeping up being a full time player. The body design was taken from the top bout of a P bass with my own lower bout design with the 'violin' type cutaway. A correct size 'headless' Warwick gig bag is supplied with the bass. It is lovely to play, big sound with these pups, strong sturdy neck with two strap holders at the end for choice of position/angle of the bass when worn. The bass has sat around the 'bass cupboard' at home for 3/4 years now so it looks like I'm not a headless bass player! (sic) Visitors welcome to try it out through some Markbass gear. Considering parts cost and labour I would be looking for ........ NOW £700 [/quote] bump -
[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1364663247' post='2029418'] Mp3 sample added.....this recording is direct off the bass, through a Yamaha desk, no effects or compression used, just the straight DI signal. [b]Specifications:… [/b] [b]Lightweight 6 lb 12 oz. SINGLE piece Swamp Ash body wood finished with eight coats of "Tru Oil". [/b] [b]Three piece rock maple wood neck. [/b] [b]34" Scale.[/b] [b]Nut width @ 1.5+ inches/almost 40mm. ( A little over a Jazz bass width)...[/b] [b]12th "fret" @ 2.1"/55mm.[/b] [b]Neck depth: Nut … almost 1"/ 25mm …. [/b] [b]12th fret..almost 1 1/8th" 27mm.[/b] [b]Ebony fingerboard @ 6.5mm middle thickness.[/b] [b]Approx. compound radius of 10" nut end to higher end 15".[/b] [b]Fingerboard has had a coat of Yamaha Bore oil.[/b] [b]Large 3mm side "black" abalone dots.[/b] [b]Note..side position dots are where the fret(s) would have been.[/b] [b]The 1st and 2nd octave position have double dots to be played centre of these two dots.[/b] [b]The neck is a bolt on design, joined by four recessed alan key head bolts that thread through the body[/b] [b]into brass threaded inserts in the neck wood.[/b] [b]Maple neck and headstock rear finish is Danish oil.[/b] [b]Headstock front finish is "Tru oil".[/b] [b]Headstock rear has a Walnut veneer.[/b] [b]Seymour Duncan "Active Jazz AJJ" pickups. (Single battery power quoted on SD site as approx. 1000 hours battery life).[/b] [b]Tone and Volume controls for each pickup.[/b] [b]Stereo barrel jack output, engages battery on jack plug input.[/b] [b]Schaller black "3D" bridge used for string width, height and intonation setting. Currently approx. 19 mm string spacing.[/b] [b]Schaller black machine heads.[/b] [b]Currently strung with "Galli" nickel strings of 105/85/65/45 gauge.[/b] [/quote] bump