mybass

[quote name='Bilbo' timestamp='1384773505' post='2280438'] I did a gig on Saturday with a bunch of musicians I didn't know (got a call out of the blue - always a little risky). Great singer, great trumpet player and fair alto saxophonist and piano players. The drummer, however, whilst setting up, said 'I am normally the other side of the footlights doing the p.a. I haven't done a gig for about a year'.... (not hadn't done a Jazz gig, he hadn't done ANY gigs) Thud - (the sound of my heart dropping like stone) It was bizarre: he couldn't swing and played it absolutely straight - no tension and release, no dynamics, no interplay, nothing; like a cheap drum machine without the time. Ironically, his ballad playing and Latin grooves were fine but he just couldn't swing. The rest of the band carried the gig off and the audience liked it but you just don't want to hear that before you start to play Nice guy, jsut no swing in his DNA. [/quote] 3 hours before a gig..German promoter calls to say his sound man now has a more important gig to do than ours so we can do the PA ourselves, can't we, as it is all set up. PA is laying all around the club stage floor, all monitors incorrectly linked ready to blow the main amps!

[quote name='Grassie' timestamp='1384339197' post='2275374'] I've bought a new nut for my VM Squier P-bass - a Graphtech PT1204 slotted which is supposed to be a replacement for precision bass nuts. Having compared it to the old one however, they are noticeably different - the original is sloped toward the G slot, has a flat bottom edge and is thicker. Excuse the camera phone pic, old nut is the white one. [attachment=148322:WP_000071.jpg] There are so many variations available on the net that I'm finding it near impossible to find a exact replacement. It's obvious that I've wasted £9 on the new nut (unless there's someone on here that wants to buy it from me), but is there someone in BCland that makes nuts? I'm sure I've seen a thread on it... Please help! [/quote] Here is a link with what looks like a flat bottom nut for a P bass...from WD in Kent, UK ....http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/pre-slotted-bone-nut---precision-bass-neck-8238-p.asp

[quote name='Grassie' timestamp='1384339197' post='2275374'] I've bought a new nut for my VM Squier P-bass - a Graphtech PT1204 slotted which is supposed to be a replacement for precision bass nuts. Having compared it to the old one however, they are noticeably different - the original is sloped toward the G slot, has a flat bottom edge and is thicker. Excuse the camera phone pic, old nut is the white one. [attachment=148322:WP_000071.jpg] There are so many variations available on the net that I'm finding it near impossible to find a exact replacement. It's obvious that I've wasted £9 on the new nut (unless there's someone on here that wants to buy it from me), but is there someone in BCland that makes nuts? I'm sure I've seen a thread on it... Please help! [/quote] Looks like you have mistakenly bought a 'dedicated' Fender bass nut that is arched to fit the camber of the bass neck profile. Many suppliers of 'Fender' fit nuts make these... Always worth a try to return it for a flat nut?

[quote name='SevenSeas' timestamp='1384360535' post='2275697'] Anyone using one? [/quote] I also put some plastic 'tupperware' type boxes around the (floor of) the bass, drill a series of holes in the lid(s), fill with water, replace lid and away you go. I don't think any way is ideal except maybe not having central heating!

[quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1383811441' post='2269286'] Today i was told by a wet behind the ears assistant MD (that's assistant to the MD) that fretless is no good in rocking songs. It's ok if you put chorus on it in chilled out tunes but not in rock. I've been playing as long as this guy has been alive. The guitarist left the room as he thought i was going to go nuclear. i had to bite my tongue as i didn't know if it had come from the MD. It hadn't. He even told the guitarist to try putting some pick scrapes into is playing. The guitar player has been the player for every big version of this show in th UK for 11 yrs. I think this kid thinks he is co MD not assistant to. Today should be interesting! Am i wrong? Am i being precious? or is it a naive, ill informed basic cliched thought? [/quote] Too many people have been amazed at end of shows to find out I played fretless all night, with some very rockin outfits.

[quote name='Lenny B' timestamp='1383379255' post='2263707'] I've a gig in Munich at the end of November, the one and only gig abroad this year (or for any year actually) I usually play 2 basses with this band, my fretless P-bass Lyte and my Shine 8-string. Would welcome any ideas on how to best fly with these - neither is standard size for a hard case (not that I have any hard cases other than a standard Fender for my jazz), I don't really want to splash out £150+ for a new double case for a one-off gig - I could take just the Lyte and pad out the case, but any suggestions would be welcome Thanks [/quote] This will take a bass inside its soft case .... http://www.skbcases.com/music/products/proddetail.php?id=13&c=84&o=&s=75 I've had one for 12 years and it is not broken or damaged yet, hopefully due to its rounded edges not getting caught on airport luggage handling or in the hold. I've also stuffed just enough clothes into it with a single bass! I haven't tried this for ages....used to be told we couldn't carry on instruments but that instruments could be loaded onto a 'fragile luggage' trolley once cheked in that was in a special collection place in the airport, which was wheeled to the aircraft by staff and loaded into a secure hold . I've never tried fitting two basses inside the SKB though angled headstock basses most likely would not work. BA usually allow a bass in the cabin, using the least bulky looking case you have.

[quote name='Galaxy' timestamp='1382029654' post='2246943'] Hello, Can anybody please tell me wich bass Mike Porcaro used on the Livefields album? It can be a Peavey or a Musicman but can't figure it out exactly, Thanks [/quote] Well he did use Peavey Cirrus 5 stringers one time...

[quote name='molan' timestamp='1381926880' post='2245548'] I've been looking at some MarkBass combos for rehearsal use and wondered if anyone knows of significant differences between the original combo head which was replaced by the II series and then the III? From what I can make out the only difference between the II & III is a pre/post eq DI option but not sure about what the LMII offered over the original heads? Must a MarkBass guru here somewhere [/quote] From Markbass site: The incredible international success of the Little Mark II has inspired this new, updated and upgraded version! The new DI output features a pre-post EQ switch and output level control, so you can optimize the signal you send to the mixer or recording unit. All this with the same compact size and weight of its famous predecessor!

[quote name='mSz' timestamp='1381791925' post='2243969'] Nice, It's a very beautiful part of Poland. I guess the most convenient would be to take a flight to Warsaw and then hire a van to get to Suwalki. It will take around 4 hours. [/quote] I think its Easy Jet that fly to a much closer airport just across the border in Lithuania, cheap tickets but be sure to add your items of luggage when buying tickets online.

[quote name='Graham' timestamp='1381756873' post='2243184'] Any good ones that don't cost a fortune? I'm trying to get a price for shipping a bass within the UK (Sussex to Edinburgh) and all the couriers I've spoken to are either expensive or don't offer enough insurance: DHL - expensive (about £85) UPS - not as expensive as DHL, but still high (about £60) and a nightmare on the phone Fedex - don't deal with the general public City Link - only insure up to £100 for damage and £1000 for loss Parcelforce - not spoken to them, but I believe don't insure musical instruments My Hermes - don't ship musical instrument Any other suggestions? [/quote] Look at Interlink. Excellent delivery and email updates to me on a delivered (£120) parcel. So I used them to collect a 2x10 cabinet at 23kg weight. Collected and delivered to my buyer within 22 hours at £250 insurance cost £26 minus a fiver for first time customer.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1381511881' post='2240170'] No problem. I suspect Yamaha might not stock the individual connector parts but only a complete cable assembly, though the only way to be sure is to call them. As for the pins from China, I wouldn't be at all surprised if they are the same parts in the original unit anyway, so if your repair has worked for a few weeks then it may well last for years. One thing about crimp connectors though is that the correct tool should ideally be used for a really reliable joint as a good crimp connection should be gas tight and almost like a 'cold weld'. Unfortunately, a good ratchet crimp tool is usually a bit pricey (£40-ish) so the occasional DIYer can be tempted to use pliers (my hand is up!). In most domestic applications this will be fine, but in a 'rougher' environment (temperature extremes, vibration, shock etc) the connection may not be quite as reliable. What this means in practice is hard to quantify. It might mean the joint lasts only 10 years instead of 25, who knows. If you've already fixed the amp then I'd probably just leave it be. At least you have the spares to fix it again! [/quote] I have emailed a pic of the part across to that Yamaha address you gave me so I will expect either 'don't carry those spares anymore' or as you pointed out, a complete assembly of the wiring loom and connectors. Just wished it had only been the reverb wire! The reverb audibly 'clicks' only at speeds depending on the intensity of the knob setting.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1381616812' post='2241556'] I've got some rather specialised crimp tools and they cost an absolute fortune. Pliers are ok for some connectors but, if you are too heavy handed, it may deform the metal pin so it doesn't snap cleanly into the connector when you're finished. I find that careful soldering of the connection and gentle forming of the pin shape so it fits is the most reliable solution. [/quote] The wire cannot be soldered to these pins, won't take fro some reason.......I have 'forced' the crimp with a simple crimp tool and it seems to have held.