dave_bass5

I was pointing out different cabs work in different ways. As an example, I’ve done two gigs at a club recently. First with the F122 and then with the CN212. Same amp. The gig with the CN212 went much better. I didn’t struggle with low end as much, and the tone out front was a lot more even. I just couldn’t get the F112 to sit properly in the mix and was more or less maxing out the amp. I don’t have the luxury of moving the cab around when Im on a tight knowing your gigs helps make a better choice of gear, and that’s my point. We don’t all gig in ideal situations.

Considering you can lift the BB2 with two fingers I’m not sure what the argument is here? You could use a Bluetooth speaker which would be lighter, and go through the PA if you are only going for lightweight lol.

Ill take your word for that, as I have no idea what a L-Pad does, but this is from a viewer i read (coulda well be the same thing as what you are talking about). On its own, this new woofer has ‘good response’ to about 4kHz, with the 3″ dome in the middle helping out up to 10kHz. The Faital HF driver, meanwhile, can reach down as far as 2kHz, but the knob on the back shifts the crossover point. Thus, knob full off, the HF driver is only adding ‘air’ above 10kHz; turn it up, and the HF driver begins to take a deeper share of upper frequency responsibility, until finally it’s dealing with everything from 2kHz upwards.

Regarding the Horn in the BB2. IIR the dial on the back changes the freq that the signal gets sent to it, so it acts as a variable cross over. So the more you have the horn on the less of the signal gets sent to the main driver. Thats from memory though so could be way off. All the correct info is on the BF website anyway. Its a clever system.

I’m a firm believer that the best way to test a cab or rig is too gig or rehearse with it. With a band playing you get certain freq masked, etc, at higher sound levels you lose certain fez’s (Fletcher Munson curve), how it works on wooden stages, concrete floor, live wooden rooms etc. So much to test in uncontrollable environments to reality get a feel of how a cab will sound for each of us. My recent foray in to the F112 being a case in point. Amazing sounding cab on its own, but very troublesome for me when the band started playing, and those wooden stages at the clubs were a nightmare. That’s just my experience though, but based on hearing it at home I couldn’t imagine a finer cab. Thats not to say a side by side comparison is not helpful though. With the same signal going in to each you can get a clear idea of the differences, and this can be very usefully to evaluate a new cab vs the old one. I have no doubt this cab will work though. Its what you like, only better. Congrats Bas.

Ok, im convinced. I’ll find a narrow bridge and see what I can do with my Squier CVP. I’ve seen a lot of P basses where the strings don’t cross the pole pieces dead centre so not to fussed if they are off a bit I’m useless with wood so won’t attempt to make any other alterations to the bass, although happy to still new holes for the bridge if I have to

This was my worry. While ive put 19mm bridges on my bases that came with 20mm (my Squires IIR), I’d have thought a bass would be designed for the bridge it comes with. I’m sure the screw holes would be ok, but yes, pup alignment and width of neck must surely come in to it. Might not be a huge difference but I’d prefer to go the route with a new bass already being set up for 18mm (or even 17mm). But then my other thought is i doubt manufacturers make different sized pups and necks for a slightly narrower set up, so it’s possible that any bass that does have the narrower spacing is still using off the shelf parts. Obviously i could and probably am wrong. I guess the radius isnt too important, at least 10-12” should be fine. No, it has to be a new bass this time with everything in place.

That’s because you don’t read the manual 😂😌

Will that be ok as far as nut, neck and pup spacing goes? I used to have one on my old Squier JV P, but I remember there was quite a bit of space either side of the E and G string on the outside. As i said above though, i dont have a bass i can do with with so i will still have to buy a new bass.

Normally about 3 numbers before we finish I’m already thinking about the packing down and drive home, and the not getting up until late sunday morning. In fact I tend to spend the last set organising my Sunday in my head. The fingers know what to do so that leaves my head free to do more interesting stuff.

Ah cool. Never played one of those old basses. I’m not too worried about the nut width, I’m guessing a narrow bridge would mean its not going to have a wide nut. Something between 38-40,me is perfect for me.

Cheers. Ill have a look at thre LX4. Not a big deal breaker as far as ther markers go, but i firmly believe a P bass shouldn’t/doesn’t need to be active. As long as it can be defeated though its not an issue. Again, if everything else fits the bill then i can overcome it.

Wow, now that almost ticks all the boxes. Love maple boards, and who doesn’t like a white body. That would be on its way IF it had fret markers/dots. I don’t need them, but ive always hated how Sandberg necks look without them. Thanks anyway.

Ohh, that is nice. I have looked at Ibanez, but couldn’t find the string spacing for a lot of them. I will investigate this one a bit more. Gotta love BC for helping up the budget lol. I dont think 18mm is standard. Definitely not Fender jazz basses as they use standard bridges like most other brands. Ive never owned a jazz bass that didn’t have a standard 19mm bridge, and ive had a few Fenders. Just checked a review of the Performer Jazz and it states 19mm.

I don’t know, would it? Ive gone down from 20mm to 19mm, but never thought about going any lower. Wouldn’t that effect how the rest of the bass is set up? wouldn't here be more of a gap at the edges of the neck? I dont have a bass that I could do it to anyway, so I’d still need to buy a new bass. Just wondering what off the shelf basses have this narrower spacing.

Last week i got a 5 string that played and feels great. Very comfortable to play, but i really dont need a 5 string. Obviously i can just not play that string, but it got me thinking why i keep going over to 5 strings, and then back to 4. Its the narrower string spacing. I love how a 5 string feels to play, even if I’m only using E-G most of the time, and I’m guessing the flatter radius (12” over above) also adds to this. So now I’m looking for a mid price 4 string. Around £400-600 preferably. Definitely, definitely not looking to get a boutique one or a custom build. What are the options? I guess a P type would suit me better, but I’m not adversed to soapbar pups. Not really looking for a jazz type of bass.

I had a set from Strings direct last year, and they felt different to my last set (probably about 8 years prior). They sound great but yes, the pick seems to wear them out a bit faster. I did notice a drop it tone after what I would consider a normal period for other strings, but none of the flaking the old ones did, and they then stabilised for longer than normal.

Yes, a few times. Also NYXL’s and currently XT’s . I like them all, but I don’t find they last much longer than normal strings, at least for me. I get my usual XL’s for £18 so they seem to be more economical for me. I have Chromes in a drawer somewhere, and I think a set of GHS flats (purple ends?). I As i play with a pick I think i notice the overtones dropping more than with finger playing. I guess im just a sucker for buying new strings.

To the audience it is lol. I guess I’m generalising to a point, but even two different brands of flats wont sound the same, so its a tricky one. Flats do ‘mature’ over time as well, so a better companion as would be 3 year old flats vs 3 year old rounds. Flats would be more playable i guess, but they are designed to produce a certain tone, which isnt for everyone. And you should know what 3 year old rounds sound like 😂

I’m one of those that changes strings a almost every month. I don’t like over bright stings, i only use nickels, but i do miss the overtones after they start to wear in. I do want to try another set of EB Cobalt flats though. I briefly had a set last year but noticed a couple of rust spots on the D so sent them all back. Hmmm, might get another set at the next string change.

Ive got Chromes (not one a bass at the moment), and had TI’s a couple of times. Much prefer the TI’s, but ultimately, for me at least, flats are nothing more than dead strings that don’t go any more dead. No use for anything i do really.

Well that is the plan. 435 going back Monday, and ill get over to yours when i can. In fact i may even end up with yours 😂

I asked. Simple as that. I got the bass from Thomanns, who didnt have the bags (as they aren’t supplied with the basses outside the USA), so i emailed the CEO of Sire to ask how i could get hold of a couple, as i planned on getting a second bass. Obviously i hyped my enthusiasm up a bit, did a bit of gushing etc, and he said he would send me two, all i had to do was pay for delivery. We worked out that delivery was going to be quite and bit so he said forget paying that and just got them sent to me. Now THATS customer service.

For me the Mono was more GAS than need. Sire sent me two of their gig bags when i got my V7, so i was covered for transporting it. I was only going car to car, with a brief tube ride, so didnt want anything too heavy duty, nor bulky. The Mono seemed like a good idea (as was the Stealth end of last year year), but in practice it caused more problems than it solved.

My Sire V7 was the reason i got a Mono Vertigo a few years ago, but the combined weight and bulk meant i didnt use it much, and then sold it.