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King Tut

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by King Tut

  1. It used to be mine. It's an awesome bass that I wish I'd never sold. Before i had the MM put in it was awesome as a P. I can't believe the P pickup is a standard mexico job - it's very powerful. I'm tempted to have it back off of Mr Noakes - but I've got too many basses! It's got a bit of wear and tear but nothing that affects the sound/playability.
  2. And your bass interests are......... sorry - I get tetchy about this stuff. Nice bass mate - where are you based?
  3. Ooooh sorry - it's a P S1, not a J S1. I'm sure they're just as nice - but not tried one, makes me think of my Thunder 1A which has a series parallel switch - thins the sound out for a jazzier feel - works well on the Westone - not tried a Precision though.
  4. These are great basses- I bought Flankers - a Jazz and P in one!
  5. I use a DB500 (12" 160W). It's loud enough for most pubs and had a really nice tube tone. It seems very sensitive to poorly grounded basses though, and some of my basses buzz through when not touching the strings, although the same basses don't buzz through other amplification. Strange that!
  6. And where are you based sir?
  7. And as for the Vasectomy - it only hurts when he (she??!!) tugs your tubes out to get a better grip! You'll only be out of the game for a week max - but take some pix - there's no other way to reproduce the lovely shade of purple in ur balls!!
  8. I can't help moving about and having a general groove. The rest of the band(s) hate it and a accuse me of 'dad dancing'! Ho Hum!
  9. [quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='249366' date='Jul 28 2008, 09:14 AM'][i]Rumour[/i] has it that Warwick changed from the recessed Dunlop-compatible design to the exposed Schaller type due to instances of natural (ie requiring wax) finished basses shrinking due to moisture loss caused by infrequent (or non-existent) waxing. The shrinkage caused cracks around the metal inserts, as these (obviously) don't shrink! Another interpretation would be that Schaller straplocks are more widespread, and that compatible buttons are a lot cheaper to fit than the recessed ones...[/quote] AFAIK the exposed Warwick straplocks are Dunlop compatible, not Schaller. Certainly those on my (recently sold) $$ were as are those on my thumb. I find Dunlop strap attachments will fit the Warwick lock, but Warwick strap attachments wont fit dunlop locks. The upstart of this is - if you have lots of basses, you can buy a set of dunlop straplocks for the strap attachments, then buy warwick straplocks for all your basses from the Warwick website shop, where they're about a third the price of Dunlops!!
  10. You lucky lucky lucky lucky thing!! You're more lucky than a four leaf clover in a lottery winning contest with a rigteous premonition of the winning numbers......oops - too much Malbec - I'll shut up now heh heh! Seriously mate - well scored! Col
  11. Where are you based sir? Col
  12. Comments anyone? Bump bumpty bump - bump bump bump
  13. The Great Pig in the Sky perform Pink Floyd's Money [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a08L7a1Ph8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a08L7a1Ph8[/url]
  14. It's a bargain and farkin' loud....I got one! Free bump
  15. King Tut

    Score!

    And there was I feeling pleased with myself for picking up an RBX 800 for £120 til I saw that! If you need any help fettling give me a shout mate - although I'm sure you'll manage - just promise you wony spray it with textured paint heh heh!!
  16. [quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='236451' date='Jul 10 2008, 12:55 PM']Is it accessed from the body end or the headstock end of the neck? If it's the neck, can you use a 1/4" drive with an extension bar and get a socket that'll fit? (likely to be metric on a Japanese/Korean Instrument) I can't see how you'd access a normal hex nut/bolt from the body end without a super-duper special tool... If it will take a socket as described above, don't use a long-handled ratchet, or you risk exerting too much torque on the truss rod. A "T" handled drive would be ideal.[/quote] It's accessed from the body end and I reckon I need a super duper special tool! Anyone got one??!! I could probably get a box spanner on it if i took off the neck but don't really want to do that. Fortunately, the action is fine at the moment so there's no rush!
  17. I just picked up a rather splendid if battle scarred Yamaha RBX 800 from Cash Converters.It didn't come with the truss rod tool. Anyone know what size it is and where I can get one? The end of the truss rod isn't and Allen key jobby a la fender - more of a hex nut. Cheers!
  18. Thnk about what's best for the music - the best bass players are the ones you don't notice. Subtlety is king - remember - playing bass is usually a supporting role! Welcome to our world - de dum de doo doo dum!
  19. Hi. You can use either a speakon or a normal jack cable with these - it's a clever 'dual' type of socket. My SA450 came with rack ears included - although I'm not sure if it was supposed to. I keep mine in a maplins type aluminium box. Fits very snug!
  20. Despite an extremely risky weekend, I'm currently meteor free, and not going out until at least midday on sunday so tough luck!! Col
  21. Do you have any compression going on via the amp or your pedals (if any?)?
  22. [quote name='Machines' post='225615' date='Jun 24 2008, 08:31 AM']Just as a note - its a BB614 not 416 .[/quote] Thanks 'Machines'! Blooming silly way of numbering basses if you ask me. Thanks also Stingrayfan and Greene King! She's a lovely bass but I suffer from depression occasionally and cheer myself up by buying basses I like but really don't need! So someone'll get a bargain with this! Col
  23. In very good condition. I'm selling for £150. Collect from Milton Keynes or can meet at London Euston. A couple of tiny marks on the headstock (pictured) and a tiny glimpse of screw holes peeping out from under the machineheads where I'd previously fitted schaller machines but found the originals better. Lovely fast slim neck and powerful 3 band eq. Pics: May consider trades but not other basses.
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