Dood

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1438288418' post='2833357'] Dood said "[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Engaging the bright switch and setting the passive tone stack to that classic scoop setting (all controls pointing up) tamed the cabinet. A little bit of excess cone movement - but I think the Kilo has absolutely no subsonic filtering. "[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Do you think that and HPF should be fitted to al amps? The amp I am buiding has an adjustable one and the more learn about speakers, the more I am convinced they are vital.[/font][/color] [/quote] I absolutely do yes - Whether or not it should be switchable is another question but certainly getting rid of everything under even 25Hz makes a difference to flappy cone syndrome! Maybe an adjustable filter for use with different cabinets? I used to filter a 2K amp running in to a 400W RMS hartke cabinet. The cones never flapped and I never blew anything even with a full band who were not..err.. volume conscious ha!

I think I know the answer to this already, but I'd be keen to find out which brands in particular have been tested. I often read about the cheaper 1u power amplifiers having problems delivering their rated power output in one way or another. Either that manufacturers are telling porky pies, or that under extreme load the amplifier doesn't have sufficient cooling in order to keep it running under load. - Output sags after sometimes milliseconds or anything up to a minute of having to work hard. So, I know that bass signal requires lots of power in the lows and I also know that just because we have a 1000W amp it absolutely isn't running at 1000W all the time (if at all) and the chances of a continuous bass signal for any more than 30 seconds is also very rare. (Unless I suppose the amps are being used for other instruments as well including bass synths playing long notes?) My question is this - I suppose it's all about headroom. If you have an amplifier that on paper is capable of 2500W RMS in to 4 Ohms and in tests it is only capable of peaks of 2000W in the real world AND under hard load it drops down to say 1800W RMS continuous, does that then translate to an 1600W RMS amplifier that will never have any problems with delivering a big fat signal all the time? To take it a step further - using a 3000W rated power amplifier that only ever has to deliver an absolute maximum of 1000W seems like a logical thing to do, especially as there are some 'cost conscious' models on the market. You could buy two of those and still have change for the cost of a premium unit such as PXN or Powersoft?

[quote name='Kempy535' timestamp='1438381352' post='2834210'] I got mine from ishibashi. I have ordered maybe 6 or 7 guitars from them now. Everyone has been in as new condition, Ended up with a Jazz and a P bass [/quote] Ahhh nice! My first CIJ came from Ishibashi - great service!

You didn't buy the one that was on an eBay shop for ages did you? I didn't have the funds to snag it myself!

I've asked Mark G if I can review the RM800 and the new Retrograde head. I think i'll like both!

[quote name='Kempy535' timestamp='1438365832' post='2834028'] [color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3]I have a Fender Japan addiction[/size][/font][/color] [/quote] I like that! I dearly love this Jap' bass! I've another 'JV' on the way soon too that I'm looking forward to a getting hold of. I already know it's going to be a blinder, just have to wait for it to make the trip from the other side of the planet!

[quote name='Kempy535' timestamp='1438365832' post='2834028'] tracing paper over the hole and draw around the lip. then cornflake box and make a template that way I was going to offer you the one form my special but its different to the power special. [/quote] I've made a cardboard lid today actually! it's a temporary solution then I think I'll get a bit of pick guard material to make a lid. The battery cover will require a bit more work I feel! Thank you for the kind offer though, that's really thoughtful!

I'll be keeping the original Fender knobs I'm afraid. As for the bridge - I may have ditched it already! That said, the new one on the bass is exactly the same as the original Fender type that came with the bass that I found on eBay for next to no money!

Oh that reminds me! I've a magazine review - issue 21 here: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/248043-doods-100-online-video-reviews/ Features this and the B3.

I've done a really rough review type video on YouTube that might help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2AG3n8KVzA

Or if anyone could spare me theres for a week or so - I can find someone to make a couple of copies - somehow!

HA HA HA!!!! I took the bass out for one of my students to play this evening. He's just passed his grade 7 so I thought he should have the first spin on it. The flip paint looks very cool and completely different from the green/purple flip of my two Shukers! Now that all the knobs are on and the electronics are in and working I can do some front pictures for you all. I am SO happy with the sound of the bass now. It wasn't bad to start with but the new pickups and preamp really bring it to life! Very pleased. PHEW!! Now I just need to find those back covers... hmmmm!!!

I'm pretty excited if I'm honest! I've posted a build diary for my bass and today I've finally finished doing the electronics. I'm so pleased, the tone of the instrument has come alive! But there's one huge problem!! Somewhere between getting the bass refinished and installing all the hardware, the metal screw down plate for the battery compartment and the plastic control compartment lid have gone missing!! I really need to source a solution! I'd welcome your thoughts on fabricating replacements - I'm pretty rubbish with cutting materials myself though!

What's interesting is that the flip colours have been totally transformed just by using a different undercoat. In my studio last night, the bass hanging up was almost metallic lake placid blue!

How low does the Octave effect track? I mean, can it handle an open E string?

[attachment=197491:11778157_10152921358436126_1766195488_n.jpg] This is the only teaser you can have for now.

Stock red before the upgrades! [attachment=197486:a0_1.jpg] [attachment=197487:9c_1.jpg] [attachment=197488:57_1.jpg] [attachment=197489:96_1.jpg] [attachment=197490:cd_1.jpg]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I've spent a nice long evening with the 12" cabinet and tested it with two different amplifiers and a wide range of settings. The room I was in unfortunately I think has done no favours as even my usual rig sounded weird. However, taking that in to account I was able to get a good idea of what the cabinet is capable of.[/font][/color] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]The cabinet as you'll already know is a single 1x12" driver unit featuring ports that are adjustable to enable further tuning in testing. Currently the cabinet has a bias towards the 5 string bassist and I understand the ports are tuned to 40hz. We'll try the cabinet with the ports tuned higher at 50hz hopefully soon, but for now my text below regards the 40hz tuning.[/color][/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I tested first with an Aguilar TH500 set flat, then smiley face EQ then I moved on to the Hartke Kilo using it's full valve preamplifier and passive tone stack EQ.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]My initial reaction was one that is good. It's loud and seems pretty stable tonally, though in comparison to my usual settings I had to back off the lows on my gear to bring the cabinet under control. This isn't unusual actually as I found that the Sl112 doesn't like being 'subbed' hard either. - Some cabinets seem to limit nicely when they can't reproduce lows, others less politely! I expect that as this cabinet is well ported, that means the speaker doesn't limit in the way that a sealed cabinet does.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Moving on, I found that yes there is a prominent mid character to the cabinet and unfortunately for me, in the absence of a bit of extra top end sweetness from a mid or tweeter driver, I found it taking the sheen off the top end of my bass. That said, don't think that this is bad, because some cabs, when you turn off the tweeter, you lose the character of the instrument due to a massive hole between where the woofer's top end finishes and the tweeter's low end starts. This driver does seem to reach up higher and boosting the treble control on my TH did a good job of putting bite back in. I'm also wondering if the cabinet itself has a bit of a 'voice' too that may be adding to that mid tone at high high volumes?[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I did scoop the mids on the TH though to balance this. The semi-parametric mid control is useful for subduing the resonant mids. Interestingly, it was the Kilo that paired better with the cabinet in my setting. Engaging the bright switch and setting the passive tone stack to that classic scoop setting (all controls pointing up) tamed the cabinet. A little bit of excess cone movement - but I think the Kilo has absolutely no subsonic filtering. [/font][/color] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]So to sum up, personally I don't think the cabinet with this sonic signature would suit me but I have a feeling that the speaker would do a great job pairing with other drivers if it were a dedicated mid-basser? Playing along to a few PA backing tracks, I can tell you it cut through easily and is a loud cabinet. Maybe I just wanted some more top end from it. I think that it would fair well with distortion pedals offering up guitar like tones to the top end but I would chose an amp carefully if top end clarity is needed from this non-tweeter cabinet.[/color][/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Oh and yes, it handled the sound of my low B - not ground shaking low end but the 1st or second harmonics meant that the B didn't seem to lose too much volume even if the girth was subdued (of course it's only a 1x12!)[/font][/color] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]Weight? Well even when I carried the cabinet still inside the cardboard box from delivery I wasn't too bothered. [/color][/font] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]Naturally this cabinet is a prototype so the looks and features are by no means finalised. That said, as a modular system, naturally I'd want to see dual speakon connectors for daisy chaining and the usual compliment of handle and protective corners etc etc. [/color][/font] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]I'd welcome any questions and further testing is likely to continue in the next week! [/color][/font]

[quote name='ubit' timestamp='1438167954' post='2832184'] Take lessons! No amount of online lessons or you tube videos can compete with a decent teacher who you can ask questions of. I myself grew tired of just playing bass and dabbling on guitar, so asked a local master about lessons. He was amazed they were for me as he knew I had been playing bass for years. I am now, by no means s virtuoso, but certainly a lot better than I was. My big eureka moment was learning to drop my elbow which allowed better string differention when forming chords. Playing bass for years , I had a completely different style where my hand was flatter. It's well worth it to get lessons and you won't look back! [/quote] Yes! Absolutely this. All of my bass students and all of my Guitar students (have the opportunity to) learn about both instruments as well as piano and drums as part of my workshops and lessons. Indeed two of my students have recently been through my recording techniques lessons having tracked rhythm and lead guitar parts as well as bass to recordings of their choice. I just can't see how that wouldn't be a good thing to learn, especially when they took their CDs home with them!

[quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1438182471' post='2832356'] The obligatory: [/quote] Yes! Absolutely - daft Dood forgot that he was writing the post on a machine that does not include his photo library!!

The very first bass I ever saw in a guitar magazine that I had a G.A.S moment for was back in around '89 time. The instrument in question was the subject of this thread. Strangely, for one reason or another I didn't get to actually have one of my own for some 17 years! But, this is it - and the bass remained stock (with the exception of a 'passive active' switch I installed about 5 years ago) up until this week. I've only a few pictures I can find of the bass 'back then' and I'll include some pictures 'pre update' too taken more recently. The new pictures you'll need to wait for as I've not quite finished installing the preamplifier. The list of jobs have been: 1. Strip and refinish the bass as the body had signs of wear, including the previous owner taking a chisel to it. Gaining access to the truss rod this way is just not cool! 2. Upgrade pickups 3. Upgrade preamp 4. New tuners, bridge and fixtures. 5. Fretboard TLC 6. Set up I expect that although the bass makes a super tone, the upgrade will give it a different voice and I've not tested the theory yet!! I'm going to see what happens when it is all hooked up when a new quality jack socket arrives tomorrow. I am pretty sure that the resultant sound will be great. The existing preamp is an interesting one and a little unusual. I'm going to save it and use it for something else I think. It's a Fender circuit that is essentially a notch filter - sweeping around the travel on the EQ knob allows for a massive range of tones as different areas of the spectrum are scooped out. Very useful, but I picked up a superb 3 band Glockenklang preamp from here recently so that is going in instead. I've had the absolutely superb Norwich Guitar Rehab do the refinish for me which also included filling some of the original control holes and then redrilling to replace the big three way pickup selector. I know have a master volume with pan, bass, mid and treble controls. There's an active/passive pull up switch too so the Fender can do passive as well. Pickups on this occasion have come from Dimarzio in PJ configuration. You'll notice in the pictures to come that this is one of the few P basses on the market whose split coils are round the 'other way' in comparison to what we are used to seeing. This is stock configuration for the active jazz bass special. The passive models did not include this. The PJBS also has an extra sculpted body, an extra fret and graphite strengthening in the neck. There's also a 'carbon fibre' headstock facing too rather than plain black of the passive JBS bass. Strings are D'Addario Balanced Tension XL Nickels, though I really like the FlexSteels on this particular bass - they sound ace! Locking strap buttons come courtesy of Dunlop as I had a spare set in black to match. That said, they are very good on my Dingwall bass so thumbs up there. The control knobs are temporary but I do like the idea of having a set of small controls for the EQ out of the way. I'll get on with posting pictures later on.....

Anyone had an opportunity to compare the Tecamp Puma 900, MarkBass LM800 / F500 and TC Electronic BH800 models?

[quote name='Ant' timestamp='1438095329' post='2831589'] mine has been great at practices, going to be using it at Y not festival this friday and will properly put it through its paces [/quote] Cool Ant, let me know how you get on..

I'm not sure it would - the Hartke LH1000 is capable of running bridged at 4 ohms and it's a monster amp for not much money. I appreciate it's an AB amp rather than D class but still, I'd expect that a little price hike was ok to swallow for the benefits.