Twincam

I don't think its that bad, does look a bit wrong tho. Why put the pu there, its too far back and I bet that type of pu design wont work well there anyhow.

I have just come back to playing had 6-7 weeks off. Was a big mistake for me my playing was starting to get somewhere and coming back I'm nowhere near the level I was at. I was feeling over bassed though, hand pain etc. I know it will come back in a few weeks or so but would not advise completely stopping. Mind you my hand pain did go. I think bass can be a solo instrument and I have fun making up little tunes and riffs. Maybe keep an electro acoustic bass around, much easier to just pick up and have a little play on, especially with inbuilt tuner. Might be good if you ain't feeling it plugging in things setting up an amp etc. I've just got a nice Takamine acoustic and it really is just nice to pick it up without any fuss.

[quote name='ivansc' timestamp='1448369522' post='2914774'] Here is a thought: A new bass comes with an Added Governmental Bonus of 20% VAT added on. With just about any other used item, that is going to come off the top before anything else. And then there is the lack of warranty and the fact that regardless of how carefully you look after it and how little it has been used, it is STILL a used item. If you take your pride and joy into a typical second-hand store they will offer you about 1/3 of hat you think it is worth. By the time they pay 20% VAT on their selling price, factor in an allowance for any warranty work that shows up once it is sold, etc,. etc. they will be lucky to see a net profit, even without allowing for the premises, staffing costs, etc., of 10-15%. I used to work for a Cash Converters years ago, so I know these figures are correct. Now turn that round and look at it from the point of view of a potential used instrument purchaser. How do you feel about only saving 30% when there is already 20% tax inflating the original price? No warranty? got to be worth at least 15%. Condition, etc all play a part. I would say you are probably going to be lucky to see 50% of new price and then only if the manufacturer hasnt cut his current price to way less than you paid. It is a hard cruel world out there at the moment. There are always people on ebay that havent done their homework looking to sell for over the current new price and sadly there is usually the odd sucker who pays it without bothering to check their "bargain" price I recently bought a used Godin LGP90 guitar for £230. I happen to have a suitable tweed case for it which will help,but I am now getting tempted to chop it in for an even nicer 2xP90 guitar. I would hope to get back what I paid for it, but even though they are still out there new for I believe £595 it will all depend on the market. Original MSRP was £699! Stuff is worth what a willing and able buyer (one with money) is prepared to pay. [/quote] Disagree not in principal as your reasoning etc is correct, but you've not taken into account actual brand performance in a used market. Some makes say ibanez can perform badly and there a good brand, where as fender will perform better, neither brand is better than the other. Like the used phone market look how long apple products hold there value compared to other brands. The smart play would be to only buy brands that hold there value. Or to just enjoy what you buy and not give a toss to its used price. I honestly think we instrument players as a whole are very good at placing to much importance in used prices. This was mentioned in a very good documentary about effects pedals.

Been watching it myself. One of the best docs I've seen, maybe not for everyone though.

Well not a new bass but new to me bass day. Not really an acoustic fan but seen this, played it was very very impressed. Much better than the fender t bucket hot rod thing I recently played. In mint condition too. Such a great sound. Not used to playing it feels massive compared to the shorts scales I've been playing. [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/image_zpsccdfwny9.jpeg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/image_zpsccdfwny9.jpeg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/image_zpsejptfvyx.jpeg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/image_zpsejptfvyx.jpeg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/image_zps0ejgw7os.jpeg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/image_zps0ejgw7os.jpeg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/image_zpsvfxunjlp.jpeg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/image_zpsvfxunjlp.jpeg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='leroydiamond' timestamp='1448378982' post='2914909'] Thin Lizzy. I actually attended one of their gigs back in the 80's but due to a transaction with an old hippy,I was rendered unconscious. Enough said [/quote] Twincam approves of this.

Big country. Wish I had went to a gig before Stuart a damson had died. Unfortunately wasn't in a position to do so really as they were just a little before my adult years. Got chance to see them with that guy from the alarm a few year ago, no one would go with me. They still do tour in a fashion. But there lineup isn't great mainly the singers have been crap. Ah least the guy from the alarm gave it some.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1448346553' post='2914568'] Disagree completely. The seller doesn't have to know about the fault to be liable. There doesn't have to be guilty knowledge here. By your rationale, there are 101 checks you should perform to be sure that the instrument is fully functional and that's just not practical. Moot point now though as its in bits. [/quote] I do agree with you in ways. I just think you have a responsibility to question everything. I agree a seller should be honest. But what if a seller really does not have a clue, who's responsibility is it is another debate. [quote name='RockfordStone' timestamp='1448379565' post='2914915'] "people" wouldnt, i would wager most musicians, especially ones selling a bass that was £500 quid new would know what a truss rod is. [/quote] Not true look at how many people on here don't understand a truss rod or fully understand setup. This applies to most instruments. It's only a small percentage that actually know about things, most luthiers work is indeed setup and adjusting a truss rod.

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1448322566' post='2914537'] It sounds like you have been adjusting the truss rod the wrong direction at some point in the setup session. If the relief had increased you needed to turn the rod clockwise. In future don't adjust the saddles if you suspect the problem is weather induced (saddles will not change with temp/humidity). The relief is the only thing that has changed, just a quarter turn on the truss rod (clockwise!) would have done it by the sound of it. Start by getting your relief correct, then adjust the saddles from there. [/quote] Yes indeed and if the action ever changes all of a sudden it is normally due to temperature etc. In that case it's a question of checking and adjusting the relief. Here is a little guide I wrote before which should get it back into decent spec. Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup. Tools need are a 4mm allen key, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company and NOT! a plastic credit card etc they are too thick. Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in good playing condition, for someone with limited tools. First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string on the last fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag. Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod, turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on, if your holding the bass normally then tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock. Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right. Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height). There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string. And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune. The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard. Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action saddle height, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup. I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps.

[quote name='ambient' timestamp='1448243731' post='2913928'] Mine's 75 watts, and is the size of a shoe box. [/quote] That maybe but 50-100w is a bit useless. I have a new rumble 100 v3 love it but it's too loud for the house really and not loud enough to really gig with unless you play in an acoustic thing, or whatever. So what really is the point of 50 - 100? This is just my opinion. Amps 50w and under home, recording, jamming with a guitar player or two maybe, db amp or street use even. Then after that you really need 200w plus, which will actually work with a drummer for rehearsal small gigs etc.

I'm wondering what the point of amps in the 50 to 100w?

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1448212936' post='2913705'] Cool rails seemed to be the one getting most love when I looked into it. I actually thought the stock one was fine though. I really enjoyed the bass, I didn't want to pass it on to the person I sourced it for. [/quote] The standard pu is ok I don't think it's bad but it's lacking and is low output. Actually really liking the bass, going to get another mustang but this will see me till then. There's nothing wrong with these little Broncos at all. Mine is red but going to spray it white.

There's a bass on here going for more than the price of a new one! Some people are charging just a little too much, not by a massive amount but enough, on other selling formats it's the same. If you actually want to sell something remember many people are skint, especially this close to the festive period.

I understand compression in its simplest terms and what it does. Personally I think a bass sound should have a little bit of natural valve compression. I don't use much if any compression if using a valve amp if solid state I might add some, many ss amps these days have some compression automatically built in.

Couldn't you just of put slightly oversized flat screwdriver in and gently tapped it in and turned it?. This does work although it's not a proper fix. Looks like the iron method did a decent job. Have you finished the repair? And regarding the seller not many people would touch or even know about a truss rod so likely didn't know. It's up to a buyer to fully inspect and be satisfied

Haha at this still being around.

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1446826752' post='2902724'] Never use glue for nuts The best stuff i've found is clear silicone sealant - usually found in automotive shops. 1 little dab each end of the nut will be fine. It takes longer to set ( leave over night ) but will be a doddle to take the nut off anytime in the future, and it wont rip any wood off when removing If you get your nut sorted, dont use glue next time [/quote] While this will work I can't imagine even a very thin layer of silicon being good at transferring sound. And I don't think many pro builders would think this was a good idea. I see where your coming from though

Well it's a squire so it will be fine, as far as I know the fret less models have no issues. Being a vm model slightly higher up than a standard, affinity. If it plays well and you like it go for it. Give it another once over before you buy, all the usual stuff.

So I have a little bronco bass that I'm modding. Going to just replace the pickup for something that will fit straight in. Any suggestions?

Post a pic of the nut as there's two ways a nut can be attached. This will give us a better idea of how to attack it. If the glue is very strong a nut can be a right pain to remove without any damage. Often strong glue will either crack the wood or leave an uneven surface behind after removal. Nuts really don't need strong glue to stay in place and a little goes a long way.

Ok well pretty much everything has been said are good ideas. Better strings (higher tension), well setup bass. I will add in that makes sure the saddle is correctly intonated. Also that your technique might just need time to adapt. Also raising the b string height might help even just a touch. Finally and controversial but some people will just be naturally better at dealing with different string tension.

Get some gold tuners, scratch plate screws and gold strap buttons etc etc. Would look pretty neat with all gold hardware.

My lass bought me a bronco bass as part of my X mass gifts, as I wanted one to mod. I was allowed to have a go and also do some fret work on it, set it up etc before it gets wrapped up. Must say I love it, my fav basses are mustangs so no surprise but I thought the pick up would be rubbish and the tuners bad. But the pu for a cheap squire start one actually sounds alright, not a huge output but useable, the tuners are much better than A lot of basses. Electrics ain't bad either nice range on the tone and the pots feel nice. Honestly thought it would need a lot of mods to get a decent bass, other than a better pick up needed its really canny.

Sold an amp to Pete. No issues with sale and was paid quickly.