Twincam

Just too add that I've found shims can help with dead spots. Don't know why, I guess different angle and possible error mother science lol

I think there was a recent thread on this thing somewhere. Pickups in the circuit effecting the tone of the other. When not being used of course.

[URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/AECB730B-E4C6-4D85-B9E4-9DFF8E554D60_zps211xive7.jpg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/AECB730B-E4C6-4D85-B9E4-9DFF8E554D60_zps211xive7.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1449318509' post='2922531'] The bridge is four individual parts, which gets earthed by the foil strip. The bridge is stupidly difficult to adjust the intonation, so I replaced mine with a cheap Gotoh copy. You might get away without an earth, the pups are humbuckers, so presumably that would help? Anyone want some spare prog 4 bridge parts? (free!) [/quote] I've used the same bridges on peaveys and ibanez models found them ok, normally grounded from below and use the string through.

[quote name='ratman' timestamp='1449314232' post='2922449'] You nearly made me spit my coffee all over the place!! Ha ha. Seriously though, if I ever heard him slapping the bass I'd hunt him down and slap him myself. [/quote] Haha. Would be amusing to see him Mark King it up though.

With McCartney and indeed jamerson. They both sound great without being flashy, they used great tone and melody again rather than flash playing. Not to say they didn't have great technique. I do sometimes wonder can McCartney slap?

Looks fairly well done. But not a neck through and as said the action looks a bit high. Price is way too high also.

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1449298842' post='2922307'] I had a look at the photos of progressive basses on Thomann's site, and I can't see any foil there. Perhaps this is what made yours a deko. If the foil is there for the purposes of earthing, surely you coulld replace it with something that looks less stupid. [/quote] Yeah I could not see foil either but it's there I will take a pic really ruins the bass. Gonna remove it see what happens I've had basses with no bridge earth that were fine so hope this one is. It's not for me anyhow but want it right.

The Lh progressive turned up perfect apart from the first and second frets are seriously high no problems there for me to fix. Has a nice sound a little too scooped maybe for me and the neck is very thick! But a really nice bass. But I've notice it has a thin strip of foil along the individual bridge pieces lol looks stupid this is I assume for earthing. I'm thinking of removing it. What will happen? Buzzing maybe I can always put it back. Hopefully won't be an issue. Honestly tin foil at the bridge mind you fender did have the copper strip lol.

Not an amp expert but my first thought is it the tube in the pre amp? I say that as it filters out eventually, is it going as the tube warms up?. And too add I have read the amp will work with no tube so if you know what your doing then no harm in pulling the tube and it running all solid state if it still does it then least you know it's Not the tube, if it is the tube then an easy fix. PLEASE don't go poking around in the amp if you ain't sure though and know the dangerous etc!!!

Well there's the short scale fender jazz think it was part of the modern player range. They ain't made anymore but I've seen them fairly cheap used.

[quote name='Wylie' timestamp='1448842432' post='2918598'] A nice-looking bass. How do you play it? Fingers? Pick? I've never played one, but they look like a handful. [/quote] With fingers the only trouble I've had is keeping my thumb floating as normally I anchor off a pu. It's just like getting used to any bass really, they all have there various quarks. Different yes a handful no. It's actually up for sale though, as I've seen something else. Saying that I might keep it as its really handy just to pick up and play without the hassle of an amp etc and it pleases my inner hipster haha.

[quote name='SICbass' timestamp='1446551653' post='2900196'] Why don't we at Basschat all club together and buy the thing? It could be some sort of bizarre/sick mascot. [/quote] I am up for donating some funds. And I think it will be amusing to pass it around its buyers and generally take the piss out of it.

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1448665888' post='2917371'] Good luck, hope it's a player. [/quote] Hope so I've had pretty good luck with dekos, mostly very light cosmetics or setup issues needing fretwork. Was disappointed in the acoustic bass pre amp just screams and I mean screams. Especially as it was intended as a little gift. So we shall see what this one is like. That if I get it, won't be first time I've ordered and it's been out of stock.

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1448643957' post='2917142'] Lefty progressive: https://m.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_b_450lh_bk_progressive_deko.htm?o=6&ref=mmc_a_6&search=1448643914 [/quote] Bought hopefully not be any difficult issues as will be a gift for a left handed friend for xmas, mind you I bought him a lh acoustic and it's great but pre amp is kaput, so been looking for another cheap lh guitar.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1448629774' post='2916964'] I'm well aware of the pros and cons of cash transactions on eBay, but the listing for the actual bass relating to this thread stated "cash only". [/quote] Yes you can state cash only, though you do have to offer pp, but you can refuse to take it.

I always place my thumb on pu or the string above the one I'm playing for octaves if there slow I can do this fine if fast I raise my hand (floating) and use my index and middle finger. Maybe practice by holding the note and its octave. And using your first and second finger or as suggested the thumb and first. Also practice just playing octaves in a box pattern I think it's called shifting up and down the neck etc etc.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1448614652' post='2916795'] I think it would be a sad place indeed if it came to this. I've had some excellent purchases through eBay for a heck of a lot more than £147 and for things that have a lot more to go wrong on them than a bass guitar. It's not eBay that's flawed (accepting the fees are on the high side), it's some of the assholes that use it. Not that it's much use now, but I'm sure a seller cannot insist on a cash payment. If it were true, no one would ever have any protection and would lose every dispute because of it. [/quote] You can arrange a cash sale on eBay. I've done this many times both buying and selling. if I see something I like I offer cash but I minus there eBay fees so it's cheaper for me normally and they get a hassle free cash sale. Doing it this way you better check out what your buying though as certainly no comebacks. I'm a honest seller but I would expect a buyer to inspect and test an item before hand. When it comes to checking truss rods I always check relief anymore than .15 and I will test the rod anything under I will just check the rod end for damage. Bit of a pain on some basses. You can't insist on a cash payment but many advertise cash on collection.

Was thinking of a cool idea, I know at some of the bigger bass bashes people do comparisons etc. Well maybe a wattage comparason might be cool so 100, 200, 300, 400 watt and so on fed through the same cab tested with a db meter or have a number of small combos tested anything from sub 50w to 500w. I know there are lots of variables on this one but it's more for fun and a general view.

[quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1448545462' post='2916312'] I guess it depends on your band - consider: (1) You play in a jazz band alongside mostly acoustic instruments doing open air garden parties (2) You play in an electronica band where there is no acoustic drum kit and you use the amp as a backline with the main sound all going via a PA (3) You play in a folk band and simply need enough volume to ensure have some clean headroom for small outside/festival type gigs (4) You play bass at church and need a nice clean tone but at much lower volumes than a rock gig. All examples there where 50-100-watt amps could well be just what you are after. From the point of view of a classic 'rock' band with a noisy drummer then perhaps they are not that handy but there are many types of music out there where smaller amps could be just what you need. [/quote] I understand this, only problem I have with that is all those types of music are fairly niche. In compared to the amount of 50-100w amps sold nearly everyone has owned an amp in that power range, but how many actually play in that type of settings you listed. It would be much easier to understand if you had a standard of labelling that stated what the amp was intended for/capable off. I was thinking that years ago smaller wattage amps were used with bigger cabs even combos were much bigger. Seems now they make things smaller and apparently more efficient but they need much more watts to get them going. And if that's not the case then gigs years ago must of been quiet, which I know that's not true.

I was going to bid but then thought nah. Kinda wish I did now but the bass market isn't great at the min anyhow. But this bass was a decent buy.

[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1448527378' post='2916076'] Yes, but in simple terms, the strings are still too far away from the fretboard, and the truss is geting stiff so I don't want to tighten any more.. I will post pics soon, maybe it will paint a clearer pic of my problem. [/quote] Truss rod is used to set relief (the bend in the neck) and not the action (string height). As in my guide above first set the relief with the truss rod then set the string height with the bridge saddles. So just because you have the truss rod set a certain way it doesn't mean that the string height will be good you must set string height at the bridge.