Norris

A reasonable controller will have 512 channels, which is more than you'll need but will support pretty much any light you might want to add in the future. Chances are you'll want several lights assigned to the same channel anyway so they are synchronised. Each light will need a certain number of channels depending on capabilities - an RGBW scanner will need a lot more to control the individual colours and X/Y movement then a more simple fixed RGB flood. I don't use a foot controller, it's a box with buttons and sliders. I have created a couple of programmes - a changing 2 colour wash for while we're playing and a single colour dim wash for the breaks. The controller has sliders to control the cycle speed and cross-fade time, that I ramp up as the night goes on, or a sound to light mode for the more frantic bits towards the end. It also has a blackout button. It works quite well especially after I added another light that shoots beams of light around the stage - which gives a bit of movement even if we don't have space to jig about much ourselves

It's a Santi (Barbie) Claus gift from the secret Santa. "Tradition" is to set it as your avatar throughout January

Lovely work. I don't think this will ever be reverted back to the old body - who would be a pauper again when you've been a prince?!

Beautiful. I love the way the paduak neck laminates blend into the volute

You can't beat a bit of Shinto action. Lovely work!

I've already cleared the random offcuts of wood, tools, strings and other paraphernalia off the dining room table. Before I've even been nagged about it

If you still have plenty of lacquer left in your can I'd be tempted to knock it back now. Go steady though and maybe do it over a couple of days. Knocking off the surface will help to release any trapped solvent. Once the bloom has gone give it another round or two of spraying Edit to say that a cold or damp garage is obviously not the best environment for spraying. Try to do it at the warmest part of the day.

I've broken a few in my youth. I don't know if the quality of strings has improved over the years or I take more care cleaning them at the end of the gig, but I haven't broken one in decades. E would be most inconvenient as it can't be covered by any other (on 4 string)

Has he posted them in the basses for sale forum?

Definitely. I even prefer sanding end grain to lacquering

Beautiful!

Very nice and clean pup securage. It's looking fantastic

You only need to key the surface. Anything coarser than 600 grit will show scratches that you then need to build up the nitro to fill. 600 is ideal for flatting off between too. Give it two or three light coats at least 30 minutes apart and then leave it 24 hours before flatting before applying the next set of coats. When you get the last coat on leave it for 4 to 6 weeks before flatting and buffing

I'd be tempted to use 600 grit aluminium oxide (a.k.a. sterated aluminium) rather than wet and dry. The wet and dry can shed some abrasive which then leaves little black bits embedded in the finish. Also you probably won't want to use it wet anyway - that will lift the lacquer on any edges

You could maybe use a pull-pot to bypass the tone control completely. That would keep the option of using the tone control if you want to

Yes I sometimes grab the acoustic guitar. We play tuned a semitone down so it depends if I can be bothered to retune my bass

To save any further puerile thread derailment I've created...

I don't think biscuits would add anything. Titebond once cured is stronger than the wood.

Plane the edges flat so you can't see any light through the gap when held up to the light. Then use Titebond and as many (sash) clamps as you can beg, steal or borrow

@Andyjr1515 could probably give you some pointers on oil finishes

One thing you can do to try to accentuate the grain is to dye it a dark colour, partially sand it back and then optionally dye it again in a lighter colour. Shame you haven't got any offcuts to try it out on

It depends on the pores in your body. That body is ash which has large pores. Give it a go anyway - if you don't like it you can always sand it off

This. There will be a fuse specific to the amp. Usually mounted on the rear chassis but sometimes inside the amp (I'm not familiar with that particular amp). The amp fuse will usually be a fairly low value compared to the one in the plug.

Have you tried changing the strings?

Or a cheap map reading compass?