I can't remember where I got the grain filler. It's "thixotropic" if that helps. It was really messy to use and could have done with several filling "passes" tbh - you'll miss bits on the first fill and it then took me ages to build up with sanding sealer.
The dye is spirit based. You may notice that some areas of the ash took the dye better than others. I quite like the effect but if you're after a more homogenous colour you might want to consider a coloured clear lacquer base coat
Being ash you are probably going to need to use a grain filler if you want a smooth finish. So to complicate things even further for you, that is available in a range of colours including clear..
If it helps, here is my telecaster guitar with black grain filler and blue dye, finished in gloss nitrocellulouse
Maybe it's just a high fret, but a tad more relief should help as it's towards the middle of the neck. You may want to take it back to your tech when you have the opportunity to see if the fret is a little high.
A way to help work out what the bass is actually doing in the first place, is to pitch-shift the song up an octave. The bass will then be loud and clear even if it sounds like Pinky and Perky are singing along to it
I'll just add to the advice of @Jabba_the_gut by saying that when routing the neck pocket you can remove a lot of the material with a brad point drill bit first. That will save a lot of wear and tear on your router bit. Then go steady with the router, shaving a mm or two in each pass - helps reduce the risk of tear-out. I'm sure you don't need reminding to be really careful with the router - they are vicious machines that want to carve fingers!
I might add that that is flamed maple. You might need to use some grain filler depending on the size of the pores in your wood. There is also a few coats of nitrocellulouse sanding sealer on top of the dye before the lacquer
When I built my telecaster guitar I used spirit based dye from Rothcoe and Frost and then finished it in clear nitrocellulouse lacquer from Manchester Guitar Tech. I'm well chuffed with the result
Heaven - a decent music venue packed with punters and a great sound
Hell - a boomy village hall fitted with a sound meter that cuts the power if anybody speaks above a whisper
Covers for your kit will help. My stuff lives out in the garage and I've never had a problem. My guitarist keeps a hairdryer in the back of his amp and sets it going as soon as we arrive at a gig if there's any sign of condensation, so it has 1/2 hour or so to dry out before he switches it on
I have another method. First of all take your car to your local weighbridge and get it weighed accurately. Then drive into your bass at a known speed, ensuring that all momentum is transferred to the instrument in question. Measure the speed at which your bass travels and by simply applying the law of conservation of momentum you can then work out the mass of your bass. If you lack the necessary equipment to measure the bass velocity accurately, then just measure the distance travelled by the bass, contact the highways department to find out the coefficient of friction of your local road surface and apply basic Newtonian physics. It really couldn't be easier
The crucial part of any spoon is the angle between bowl and handle a.k.a. the breakfast angle. If too shallow it will suffer nut rattles, causing a lack of pudding cohesion
It depends on the length of the neck pocket i.e. which fret the neck joins the body at.. Certainly it's a measurement to check. And yes if it's a shorter scale neck the bridge would need to move towards it. If both body and neck are 34" scale and the neck joins the body on the same fret as the original neck used to, you shouldn't have to move the bridge