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I might just see what el cheapo midi drum machines I can pick up for the interim. All it needs is to do is play a snare on each beat & that should sync us.

Once I can get the funds together, a MP-201 may well be right after the octaver. Still want to hear the new Markbass octaver. Phil, that is a pretty sweet sounding pedal, The hothand seems like a very clever invention.

Yeah I saw that same homemade LFO the other day when I was trying to find just a simple CV LFO.

[quote name='Davy' timestamp='1316693902' post='1381521']In an ideal world I'd have the RH450 but to be honest I'm pushing my funds to get this rig and one of the bands I'm in requires that I tune flat and I'm not sure that the built-in tuner does this. I didn't actually try the 4x10 cab but the 2x10 combo had loads of punch and the 4x10 will give me a bit more volume and spread. No 2x12 instore but I would wouldn't rule one of these out in the future, it'll depend on how I get on with the 4x10.[/quote] I'd like to try a TC head sometime, they get a good report on here (apart from the watts issue, but if it's loud enough...). A 4x10 would actually give you less spread than a 2x10 stood vertically like the TC ones are designed to. Why not go for 2 2x10s (or 2x12s)?

So that's what you look like! You might have warned us!!! Very nice playing BTW & love your bass sound. Is that your Fender/Allparts job?

If you go for 1 8Ω cab, you'll get about 2/3 of the amps power going to it. If you go for 2 8Ω cabs, you'll get 1/2 the amps power going to each. If you go for 1 4Ω cab, then you'll suck all the power out your amp & get a barely noticeable increase in volume & not be able to add another cab if you need more volume. Here's a good topic to read... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/3730-gain-power-and-volume-a-confusing-menage-a-trois/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/3730-gain-power-and-volume-a-confusing-menage-a-trois/[/url] Alex is good at explaining this stuff.

I think it really depends on what type of music you're playing. If it's general rock/pop then you could probably gig away without any effects, but if you're playing DnB, Dubstep or Breakbeat then effects are a part of the sound. Have a listen to Pantherairsoft's band Our Helical Mind (or go listen to some Miloopa or Nerve) & tell me it's not worth putting a good bass through an effects chain. If you start with a crappy bass sound as a base then all your effects are gonna sound crappy (canny polish a jobby).

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1316798166' post='1383159'] The amp is running at lower watts at 8Ohms though (iirc im not great at this stuff). So lets say the speaker can handle whatever the TC throws. 1 x 8ohm Cab is going to half the power of the amp and project that 1 x 4ohm Cab is going to get the full power of the amp (actually apparently it has to be a 2.36ohm cab for the full power but we wont go there) Or am I just daft? [/quote] No, your not being daft. An 8 ohm cab will take about 2/3 of the power from the amp, but the amount of watts being fed to a cab does not equate to how loud the cab will go. A 4 ohm cab wont be twice as loud as an 8 ohm cab, more likely to be about a tenth.

Here's the situation: I have a Bass Murf & my guitarist has just bought an Adrenalinn (MKI). Is there a cheap simple MIDI to CV clock available or even a simple build for one that any of you know about? I've been searching the web but not having much luck finding what I'm after Other option that I've just this minute thought of would be a cheap drum machine & send the Midi clock to the Adrenalinn & have a hot click (like the snare) do a simple 4/4 pattern. I can see a Midi Murf on the horizon!

True, but the speaker is gonna do the same thing with that power & turn it into sound regardless of how much it gets .

I seriously doubt you or your audience would notice the difference between a 4 ohm & an 8 ohm cab. The main difference is you can't add another cab if you go for a 4 ohm.

The Source Audio BEF (& BEF Pro) look like hot contenders for that. My fave filter is the Moog, but I'm not sure it's the best for what you want.

Driving the lower frequencies does take quite a bit more than mid & top.

Some excellent sounds there. I'm really digging this kinda bass sound just now. [url="http://youtu.be/g8KUbNMybyA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8KUbNMy[/url] I still cant get this youchoob malarky to work!

We only do a few covers, mostly originals & I use most of my pedals all the time. I'll often use the Moog LPF with some fuzz to keep just a bassy sound & then open it up a bit more when we want the song to come alive. My singer/guitarist has just gotten an Adrenalinn, so hoping to sync it with the Bass Murf & make good use of some patterns.

I concur! Brilliant work & good to hear something completely different. Some of the sounds you are making are immense!!!!! Let me know if/when you're touring up this way & I'll be there (or if I'm down your way at all...). That reminds me, PM coming your way shortly.

Really good job you've done. Did you do it in Reason? When I had Reason 2.5 (many moons ago) I felt that it had it's own sound (you could tell it was done in reason), but your mix sounds really good. I agree with 51m0n, much better than the original (though I think the music that she's done is a bit lame, nice vocal though).

Don't get hung up on how many watts an amp is, they aren't the deciding factor on how loud you can go. Moving air is the clincher. A combo may be a better/cheaper option for you as Bigwan says & there's plenty from Ashdown, SWR, Hartke & a few others. Have a look on here in the For Sale section. You may well even find a decent rig in your price range.

Not that I know of. Where are you?

Interesting! I tried snowboarding & made myself into a big snowball! I'l stick to bass.

I know there's a couple of members on here that's went from LMII to LMIII & posted about it in here. Can't find out how to do a search.

The newer MB combos have LM3s, older ones have the LM2 (though you probably already knew that). I think the only way to find out if it's worth the extra is to go & A/B them, but other than the DI having a level control, I don't think there's any difference.

I thought it was your ring mod to start with on a split signal. Now there woudl be an interesting thing. Split signal & one side going through the slicer & then into the ring mod then LPF, other channel going through the OC2 & what ever else. Could give an interesting result (or maybe just a crap one ).

Do you split your signal so one remains intact & the other gets chopped up or is it just the way the slicer does things?