JapanAxe

The idea of a custom P is quite tempting, but as others have said, we need to know more! Like can I have a big fat humbucker by the neck? *wipes drool from iPad*

Also afaik there are very few valve factories in the world so unless you commission one to build to your specs (rather than just badging them for you) surely you are left with grading what they send you.

So is that an ad? Shouldn't it be in the Affiliates forum in the Market Place?

[quote name='Muzz' timestamp='1382633708' post='2254785'] If you've got a Streamliner and a Barefaced S12 cab, you've already got (arguably, as all things are on here) a very very good, small, light solution there already. You'll be compromising in at least one way from where you are, IMHO. If your driver is weight and size, you might save a couple of pounds on a smaller head, or possibly ten on the cab, but I really don't see the point (your cabs has wheels?) If you've a bad back, you might be better off putting funds and effort into a lighter bass. A couple of pounds there is much more noticeable - my Dingwall's 7.5lbs, and I can really tell if I use a heavier bass for any length of time. [/quote] This. That is all.

This is going to go two ways - coffee tables and solid colours!

Is there any income stream for the contributing musician or are you just buying a little bit of fame?

Actually, modding is much easier than a complete build, I would suggest do that first. I started with a Harley Benton GA5 (Epi Valve Junior clone from Thomann, about £80) and went from there. You can start with little component tweaks, swap speaker or output transformer, then some people go on to build turret-board or PTP versions of the amp circuit. You learn a lot a long the way!

I have used a 5W single-ended valve 1x8 combo for small rehearsals and it [i]just[/i] copes. I gig a 15W valve combo and it has always been loud enough, even without PA support. Try [url="http://www.wattkins.com"]Wattkins[/url] for an excellent building/modding forum.

Subscribed!

No real-world guitar would pick up that kind of wear. Unless it had been used to dig the garden with.

A decent passive bass is a thing of joy. You might want to boost the treble on your amp a bit if you need the same top-end range as you have become used to with active circuitry.

Anyone? I have re-installed the B from the ancient Ernie Ball set for now.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1382480660' post='2252819'] If you are Bristol way, can come try them in my tester with actual buttons and levers and suchlike. [/quote] Thank you kindly Mr F, I may well take you up on that!

Just tried a Sylvania in V1 and then in V2. Possibly more open sounding, but I actually preferred the more driven sound that I had before! Also [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/220101-12ax7-ecc83-plate-voltages/page__view__findpost__p__2252628"]this[/url].

MDP had better watch out!

[i][color=#0000cd][b][size=8]D'oh![/size][/b][/color][/i] What a doofus! The figures I quoted at the start of the thread were measured against chassis ground, but what [i]really[/i] matters is the potential difference between the plate and the cathode. I actually measured the PD between the cathode and ground when I first took my readings. Subtracting these, I find the plate-to-cathode PDs are all in the range 197V-212V, well within the recommended and design maxima (300V and 330V as far as I can tell). I also got a very prompt email reply from Fender, who kindly sent me the schematics for the pre-amp board and the back panel PSU. The latter is a completely conventional step-down transformer, followed by a full-wave rectifier and a simple LP filter for smoothing. The output of this is marked as 315V DC, but that is with a primary voltage of 230V AC. UK mains voltage is required by law to be 230V (+10%/-6%), i.e. 216V-253V. It is typically 240V, and I measured ours (with the same uncalibrated meter) as 242V. Therefore the nominal 315V DC supply should actually be 315V*242V/230V = 331.4V. I measured it and got a reading of 336V, only 1% difference! Genz-Benz will have been well aware of these tolerances when designing for the various markets. So - I am no longer worried that the amp is frying my tubes. However, I do wonder why the change in performance of the old Peavey tubes. It could well be that (a) they are cheapos, and ( they had an easier life before I put them in the Streamliner. EDIT: It appears that the letter b followed by a closing parenthesis is interpreted as an emoticon! Next step will be to fit a NOS Sylvania in V1, then try JJs in V2 and V3. I will be monitoring their condition closely, and this brings me to my final observation, one I am reluctant to make after dropping £349 to own it - [i]the Orange valve tester might not be all that![/i]

Bought some NOS valves from Gareth - quick to reply to all PMs, quick to dispatch the goods, and a true gentleman to boot. Cheers Gareth!

Wow! Is that a Burlington close-coupled pan? Mint!

Not sure what the problem is with Audacity - that's what I use.

Now states made in Japan 1993/4.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1382300477' post='2250447'] Tsk! They just don't understand, do they? Relic Strat or a brand new kitchen? [/quote] We've already had the kitchen and it cost a lot more than that!

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1382301337' post='2250466'] I like Jazz. Moondance is one of my favourite numbers. [/quote] LMFAO