Musky

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1327093266' post='1506494'] Pulled because it sold off ebay most likely. Thing ebay are being cautious post violin smashing. [/quote] So what are these violin smashing references all about then? I seem to have missed that.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1326967165' post='1504307'] I doubt your amp pushes out below 4ohm..so you can't use both at that impedance, if that is the case. I don't know the head at all.... but 2 speakers will be far better than one so just the upgrade on cab alone should see a good improvement..plus you are driving the 4 ohm cab and the amp will go louder at that impedance than at 8ohms. If you like the 212, then you'll have the 112 to sell to offset the buy-in [/quote] The LB30 has a valve power section and so has different taps on the output transformer. The result is the same power at either 4 or 8 ohms... It'll still be louder with an additional speaker though.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1326967644' post='1504322'] This Ibanez one appears to be same as my CMI one, hardware and such: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120846218198"]http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=120846218198[/url] Handy for people trying to find the origin of the CMI. [/quote] I'm not entirely sure that is an Ibanez. I don't remember an Ibanez 'faker with those machice heads and neither do I remember a logo like that (though I'm no expert on Ibanez stuff). Maybe it actually is a rebadged CMI?

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' timestamp='1326833512' post='1502646'] Shouldn't have done. Even if the lead did go, it'd just cut the signal to the cab rather than surging. I should've said, I'm not an expert on this really, I've always played it safe with speakons, but that's what I've heard. If you're using a SS amp (that shouldn't be damaged if the lead goes because they can usually handle any resistance above (or below numerically ), please don't take my word for it and plug in again using an instrument lead. [/quote] In actuality it's more likely that an SS would be damaged by the failure of an instrument lead used this way. It's unlikely to fail by immediately melting the wire causing it to go open circuit unless you're hitting with a [i]very[/i] high wattage. A more likely scenario is that the insulation will melt first with the attendant risk of shorting the shield and signal wires. Death to an SS amp.

Baffled! The thing that's getting me is the lack of skunk stripe - I can't think of a copy that didn't have one. It appears to have a 3 piece neck which suggests matsumoku or Fujigen, but it's definitely not a Mat and unless the neck plate has been replaced it's not a Fujigen either. So I'm stumped. Bassassin would probably have ID'd this in a flash, but he's otherwise preoccupied. Perhaps you could ask one of the mods to move this to the Bass Guitars section where it'll get more views.

I'm no expert, but my understanding is that it will have no effect at all. Impedance depends on frequency and the tweeter will have a high pass filter. I would have thought the problem your friend experienced might have been down to the back EMF caused by the tweeter cutting out rather than a change in impedance.

At £150 over budget you're probably looking at a Mexican made bass. Quite honestly I'd stick with the Classic Vibe as they're great value for the cash (not to mention genuinely good basses). Ampwise, personally I'd go second hand as suggested. The TNT are cheap as chips used, or the Ashdown MAG can be had for the same money as the EB new and is a step up.

Noelk27 is pretty up on Matsumoku made Arias. I'm sure he'll chip in soon enough.

Have you got a photo of the neck plate? Often it's not possible to identify the brand the bass would have been originally sold as, because the same factory would happily sell the same instrument to different importers branded as requested. Plenty of more detailed pictures would help a lot.

Just a thought, but have you tried cleaning the input jack? I had a problem with an amp which transpired to be a dirty input jack. The symptoms were completely different to yours but you never know, especially as HotRox identified it as the problem in the first place.

They were Korean made Corts. IMHO it's probably overpriced - you could pick up a Thunder 1A for considerably less.

[quote][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=2][b][font=Times][size=4][color=#000000]TOTALLY ORIGINAL, U.S.A PICK UPS[/color][/size][/font][/b][/size][/font][/quote] Hmm... It's either one or the other. Edit: Yeah, that price is totally hatstand.

I think something strange has happened to your uploads - a quick google reveals the .ipb file extension is either an iPhone script or related to Invision Power Board. I'm guessing it's the latter.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1325586809' post='1484613'] If it's like the rest of the Sigs it will come in at CV money or cheaper. Whats wrong with the Humbucker. If it stays true to like it might be a EMG. can't see it though I reckon the squier will come in with something cheaper. there's the older squier Vist series one too they turn up the odd time and are supposedly quite good. MIJ IIRC. [/quote] The Vista Musicmasters were made in China but came in Sonic Blue which might not have been what the OP had in mind. I think if he wants the same colour as in the Black Keys video he's looking at a long wait and a fair amount of moolah. Or a respray.

[quote]BassAmp.co.uk is a bass amplifier comparison website. We do not sell bass amplifiers directly. If you intend to purchase, or indeed have purchases a bass amplifier, and need to make an enquiry regarding it, please visit the retailer directly.[/quote] It's quite possible they don't know the first thing about bass amps, as they don't actually sell them. It's probably just a case of keyword spamming to improve SEO as all the listings seem to have the words 'bass amplifier' in there. Seems to have worked.

[quote] Q: Hi buddy is this a silver series or not. I'm confused. 30-Dec-11 A: The ones that came after the gold logo were known as the silver series. Fender later capitalised on the fact that they had become known as silver series and brought out another series with a small 'silver series' logo on the head stock in black. So there are 2 kinds of silver series, the nicknamed original version like this and the later version with the logo. This version is closest to the original JV gold logo series in woods and quality. Hope this helps. Jim [/quote] What a complete load of BS. There were a lot of Squiers around with silver logos in the late 80s/early nineties, including the Squier II's, and they weren't from any particular range or series. They just all happened to come with silver logos - no more, no less. Fender didn't capitalise on this 'fact' because Squiers were earning themselves a bit of a dodgy reputation at the time, so linking the Silver Series MIJ instruments (intended as more upmarket instruments available at a premium) with some of the dreck that had been turned out was the last thing any sensible marketing department would want to do. [i]If[/i] this is a Japanese Squier, and I can't make out the country of origin, then it is a Silver Series as they were the only Squiers produced at the time. Although most have a SS decal, not all do. This one has the sharp corner at the bottom of the headstock that all the Silver Series did, so I suspect it's actually a real Silver Series. In which case it has a basswood body and not that much in common with a JV at all.

At first glance I thought it had been bridged as well, but it's the inputs that have been linked. So perhaps they've been feeding it with a mono signal and using the link to feed both of the channels?

[quote]Its actually by Fender[/quote] I think that should be "Its actually [i]Squier[/i] by Fender".

[quote name='lee4' timestamp='1325015252' post='1479171'] [b]When was the last time any of us had an audience member make [i]any[/i][/b][b]comment about our tone?[/b] [b]IMHO you should get a sound that fits the music(but it does'nt stop me trying to find 'that'sound).[/b] [/quote] 25th April 2009. Though it was another bassist so maybe that doesn't count...

...Not to mention the completely revised and updated editions every time you join a new band and find your old tone doesn't work!

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1324813931' post='1477919'] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]....then they boost this number two and three fold to reach the volume which comes out of the speaker outputs, which is the number that is amps are rated at and the number that musicians need to know when they buy their cabs.[/font][/color][/size] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]Good grief!!! No wonder TC had an issue with how to market their amps to the average musician so that they wouldn't blow the speakers!! [/font][/color][/size] [/quote] I'm the below average musician. You'll have to explain this to me in terms I'll understand. I realise TC are boosting the output figures to something they feel is more consonant with the perceived volume. I'm just not sure why, when cabs are usually rated in Watts RMS, we should ignore the manufacturers RMS output figures and go along with "quasi watts" to determine if the cabs are man enough for the job.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1324777619' post='1477840'] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial][color=#222222][font=Arial][color=#222222][font=Arial][color=#222222][font=Arial]As I said last time, it means that the RH450, Classic and Staccato are rated at 450 watts and the RH750 at 750 watts[i][font=Arial].[/font][/i] These are the numbers, the [i][font=Arial]only[/font][/i] numbers, you use when matching cabs.[/font][/color][/font][/color][/font][/color][/font][/color][/size] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial][color=#222222][font=Arial][color=#222222][font=Arial][color=#222222][font=Arial]I played my Staccato through 2 300 watt cabs and my RH750 goes through 2 400 watt cabs. I'd be surprised if you really think that your RH450 is actually only putting out 236 watts!![/font][/color][/font][/color][/font][/color][/font][/color][/size] [/quote] The TC document does state that the RH450 puts out 236w RMS long term, which is how other amps are usually measured. Whether other manufacturers figures are accurate is another matter though.

Put a multimeter/continuity tester on the speaker to confirm the coil has gone, then get in touch with Wembley Loudspeakers - as far as I know they're the only people in London that do this kind of work. The Ampeg distributors would just replace the entire speaker, so it may prove more economical to get the coil sorted.

Re the volume controls, everything is as it should be. If you solo one of the pickups then the other volume control will have no effect as it's not in the circuit. The Bass and Treble volumes control the neck and bridge pickups respectively, so if you're only using the neck pickup the bridge volume control (Treble) has no signal to adjust.