PlungerModerno

I don't want to sound ignorant - but can't you use your ears? I'm pretty sure that depending on your playing, the strings your using, the pickups in the bass, the effects you run (if any), the preamp in the amp, the cab or cabs in your rig, and a few other things your EQ will be different in each situation (e.g. something as simple as switching to stainless steel strings for me makes me want to EQ totally differently, especially in the mids). Put simply I don't think there is a "flat" sound on anything - just good for this and good for that! If I'm not mistaken the 2 band Stingrays use potentiometers without centre detents - but given the "bridge" position of the pickup it's kinda like soloing the bridge position on a Jazz - You may wish to boost bass and low mids to get a more "precise" tone if you know what I mean. I'd say start with the mid knob rolled 3/4 up - rolling back to half or even 1/4 if it sounds off - then tweak it very slightly when you've got the bass and treble how you like it!

[quote name='iconic' timestamp='1454931128' post='2974215'] And look here's Les from Vic Reeves Big Night Out playing one [url="https://youtu.be/wcEa2VHol3k"]https://youtu.be/wcEa2VHol3k[/url] [url="https://youtu.be/wcEa2VHol3k"]https://youtu.be/wcEa2VHol3k[/url] [/quote] He's been practicing since his days behind an organ! [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp3Roc7QVWE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp3Roc7QVWE[/url]

Oooooooooooooh! Looking much much better!

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1455209300' post='2977103'] Don't forget, you can re-use these parts on the final build. [/quote] +1 As long as you take care installing & uninstalling the parts. If you're clever (using a heat removable glue like most woodglues on the fingerboard) you can even re-use truss rods. If it's installed in the back (like a one piece neck with the skunk stripe style) - You'll either have to saw or split the neck, or use a double action truss rod in a straight slot - that way it can always be straightened and slid out of the neck. See the below links for examples: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oG8pFyLlFg0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oG8pFyLlFg0[/url] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT_iDrcLtKY"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT_iDrcLtKY[/url] Obviously with pickups and the like care should be taken not to overheat when soldering, and any shielding materials are best binned - unless you make a metal plate for a control cavity for example - that can be reused as well as screws and wiring looms etc. Keep in mind if you want specific high end or custom hardware or electronics - this is going to be pretty much the same cost if you build it yourself or comission somebody else to use them in your build. I wouldn't immediately decide to invest one way or the other - I'd try a cheapy prototype to get the feel for what you want - don't worry too about getting the finish and finishing details right - you can always call in a pro to do that if you like when it comes to that stage!.

Prototyping takes time - even for an experienced builder. If you're trying to get an ideal neck profile, fingerboard radius, bodyshape, transition shape and overall balance - that's a lot of things to get right. If you want a known neck shape (profile & radius) and have clear plans for the body - then you can work with that - either with a builder or with your first prototype.

I'd say go buy some cheaper hardwood - or better yet recycle some furniture hardwood e.g. maple, birch, oak etc. And use it to work out the dimensions and balance you want - I'd even suggest mdf, or softwoods to work out some basic dimensions. for a neck through, as long as you don't mind mixing up some epoxy and reinforcing wrap (like fiberglass or carbon fibre) you could make protoype necks with or without truss rods - but that's up to you to decide how best to proceed. Often the best way is to just jump in with some fairly budget materials, make your mistakes, correct them as best you can - and start again, learning from your mistakes as best you can.

Setup is always a compromise as I understand it - intonation can't be even close to perfect all over the instrument when frets are put in the normal way look at "true temperment" frets for example: Neither can action be all things at once. A string needs room to move if it's going to not be muted - and to sound good there had better be enough clearance for your desired "response" to your chosen technique and weight of stroke - e.g. getting a satisfying slap sound without hitting the strings very hard requires medium to low action - this setup would tend to buzz and choke out for somebody who plays fingerstyle with a heavy plucking hand. For string bends on a normal instrument low action will tend to cause choking out earlier than medium or high action. Put simply it's extra clearance between the string and the crown of the fret above the fret being bent on. In theory the best radius for string bends is no radius at all - a.k.a. flat. This is because on a flat radius the string isn't moving higher or lower relative to the nearby frets the way it does on a noticeably radiused fretboard. Think of an extreme example if you don't "get" it - bending a 12th fret E on the 4th string all the way to the opposite edge of the fretboard (where the 12th fret G is on a normally tuned 4 string bass 1st string). If you have a noticable "Hump" between the strings by having a pronounced radius (say 7.25") you would expect the E string to rise and then fall as it follows the radius from one end of the fret to the other - with fiarly normal neck relief & string action you would expect the string to fret out long before it reaches the opposite end of the fret. In fact I would expect it to contact several frets higher up the neck in this extreme example. Keep in mind the reason most fretboards and fingerboards are radiused is for playing chords more comfortably, and on bowed instruments - to allow access for one (or two) strings at a time to be bowed.

[quote name='Dan Dare' timestamp='1455186443' post='2976732'] Thanks for that link Hobbayne. I can find an electrical appliance logo I like the look of and get them to make me one. Doctor J - it's precisely because I don't want to be a brand slave that I want something daft. [/quote] Ha! Make it a Dyson logo and then you can make "suction" remarks about yourself and others - or go for Head and shoulders (only funny if you've bald or balding and have a sense of humor about it!).

Upon reflection - I would argue that an immense knowledge of metal bands of the past & present is less metal, more metal fan. I am a bit of both I like to think.

4/10 - Two legit, two from guessing. I new the Sabbath singers and the Maiden album - and kinda knew the names one as I knew the bass player of one of the bands. The other ones were complete guesses - all but one I got wrong.

When you have the strings off - take a picture of the nut if you can. Then take one when you put on the problem string - it might show something, might not. It's a good excuse for having a close look at the problem area.

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1454974726' post='2974793'] So, given that the hole for truss rod access was drilled, but the TR is "non-adjustable"... it's probably seized. [/quote] My thoughts were along the same lines - if that is or was a truss rod access hole. It could be a trick of the light or a blemish in the wood or finish - but I doubt it.

[quote name='Prosebass' timestamp='1454928747' post='2974178'] When it comes to U2, Mr Clayton is not the problem. [/quote] +1. U2 are not to my taste, and to be honest neither is Mr Claytons playing etc. etc. Long story short he's in a band with bono. All things considered he's quite well loved & respected. And he's got a nice little nest egg for his trouble!

Honestly . . . I'm scared. Partly by the headstock (I don't know if there's a headstock truss rod access hole in the middle of the peghead or not!). Also this sentence doesn't help: "[i]The neck is also AAAA Quilted Maple, with twin strips of Purpleheart running the length of the neck and headstock. These strips, in addition to the non-adjustable truss rod, provide excellent stability. [/i]"

I like it - the pattern is alright, but the shape is a bit too gibsonlike for my tastes.

[quote name='LayDownThaFunk' timestamp='1452721507' post='2952946'] Grolsch straplocks! [/quote] This . . . or plain old washers. This only makes sense if you have a strap for each bass of course. It's taking straps on and off that wears them out IME - they always wear out by the strap buttons. Since I started using washers - this stopped happening.

Looks nicely put together. The only way to know how well it feels & sounds is in the flesh of course. Now given it's a multi laminate neck and looks carefully built - it should be a pretty safe bet. As it's a set neck I'd be keen to examine the string height adjustability - and I'd like to see what kind of bracing it has inside (or like some 335 copies (and maybe the original design, I'm not certain) does it have a solid block running from bridge to neck joint?).

Far better - maybe a custom jobbie? I'm sure Status do 5 string MM stingray necks - should do custom 5 string Fender sized ones. Not sure but it can't hurt to ask!

Nice and cheesy does it!

[quote name='mike 110' timestamp='1454520071' post='2970472'] Erm ..yuk [/quote] +1 It's hideous.

Well on the way to beauty . . . Since you are using water to get a smoother finish . . . don't hit it with tru oil after you finish sanding. Leave it a few days to let all the excess water near the surface work its way out.

Never thought of a magnet - The X:Ray machine was a bit of a long shot!

Cooooool. No idea if the single pickup per string makes a major difference - I suppose it depends how it's wired. I'd imagine they're each a single coil, with two of them RWRP to the other 2 to form two humbuckers or a giant "Quad bucker".

[quote name='Vinny' timestamp='1454454302' post='2970004'] Thread title at 0:30 [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raPS0NRXobo[/media] [/quote] What a finale, reminds me of this one: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNKDOs6OAII"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNKDOs6OAII[/url]

[quote name='such' timestamp='1454438367' post='2969774'] wow, that "walnut" version with ebony board and gold hardware is my dream. Still, I wish the pickups were reversed. I have this crazy idea of having a Maruszczyk made in this style. [/quote] Crazy? Nah - inspired. With some custom electronics or something from the John East line. . . dream territory! Might I suggest an ebony substitute like ebonol or Rocklite® Found the latter here: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X01A36j7Ib4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X01A36j7Ib4[/url]