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PlungerModerno

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Everything posted by PlungerModerno

  1. That's sickening - But it could be so much worse! I'm glad nothing was wrecked or nicked (aside from the damage to your door and your neighbours). My only advice is to be sensible with your security - Think carefully about fire saftey and your habits (don't make things so complicated you can't bypass them in a hurry or you (or those sharing your home) won't bother using them on a daily basis).
  2. Some very interesting claims - He's right that the pop music charts are dominated by cynical guff . . . I'm not convinced there's a conspiracy behind it though, more likely it's a few big players copying each other to death while everyone else struggles to get even a fraction of their trade!
  3. [quote name='cocco' timestamp='1457122638' post='2995694'] I think it's cool that it's retained the S2 horns. And it's no where near as daft as the B1 buzzard [/quote] My thoughts exactly - With the exception of the S2 style horns. . . They're smaller so I think it'll struggle to balance as well (especially with the headstock) but it still should work fine with a medium weight body (i.e. not chambered basswood or a light foam with a thin carbon fibre skin).
  4. I think it's pretty cool - Definately more practical/sensible than the buzzard bodyshape.
  5. Coming along very nicely - I'd say the saddles will work well as long as the holes the screws thread into are tapped suitibly (I assume you've got some more ovankol or rosewood to make more if things don't turn out perfect the first time!).
  6. Pretty cool - here's a vid: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7p4vzMmbzWs"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7p4vzMmbzWs[/url]
  7. Wood can vary considerably in grain, colouration, density and imperfections within the same plank let alone between species. To me it looks like one of the many species sold as "Mahogany". That's based on colour and grain - no idea about the species unfortunately.
  8. All's well that ends well! Given Warwicks reputation it's dissapointing to see the innards of that truss rod cavity: The use of a hardwood (Wenge I think) for the bearing surface the brass pushes against is pretty clever - but to not have adaquate thickness of wood behind it is lunacy. It might work with a tough wood like Wenge but only if the force is acting across the grain. The piece in the above pic was never going to take significant pressure with the grain runnning in that direction. There is only the wood between the two circular routings (at most a couple of inches) and it's all along the grain (with the exception of the caping laminates). It was also a mistake to put a square piece of brass bearing against a curved cutout wall - It might have held up if the brass was milled to the same shape as the cutout, and thus the pressure didn't concentrate on that edge - Where "coincidently" it broke.
  9. Wal fretted 5er in decent nick with what appear to be wenge facing slabs? £1600? It'll fetch £2500 at least . . .
  10. [quote name='skej21' timestamp='1456469819' post='2989277'] Like this you mean? [url="http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Fender-Custom-Shop-Rory-Gallagher-Signature-Relic-Strat-Sunburst/1ACM?origin=product-ads&utm_campaign=*PLA+Shop+-+All+Products&utm_medium=vertical_search&network=google&adgroup=**All+Products&merchant_id=1279443&product_id=60070d1&product_country=GB&product_partition_id=41477300408&gclid=CIvCoOXslMsCFRIUGwodSjEDNQ"]http://www.gear4musi...CFRIUGwodSjEDNQ[/url] [/quote] Kind of - but not a guitar than looks like the one rory played, but one with his mug or silhouette formed from the remaining paint - along the lines of the hendrix strat the thread started off discussing. I guess a combination of the two concepts could be nice!
  11. Coolest relic I've seen in . . . well forever! Now a Rory Gallagher version. . . That would be extremely tempting!
  12. It does look like a fairly clumsy brush paintjob - the wood carving underneath may be a lot neater - impossible to tell with that paintjob. It also is being sold as something other than it is. It's an Ibanez BTB 5 string bass with a really bizarre refinish - not a custom fretless. I'd say it's worth about £120 for the hardware (assuming the preamp works & the tuners are the usual decent Ibanez ones - I think those bridges are worth a few quid if the screws and saddles are all working). Looking at the back of the neck, maybe an extra £100 for the body + neck combo if you check the neck doesn't have too many deep gouges in the back (and it can be sanded and repainted with no major issues). As art I have no idea. £50?
  13. If ever there was a bass for parting out - the neck and the hardware should sell easier than the bass in that condition. Perhaps that's the intended market!
  14. The seller may be "cracked" - but the neck definately is! This is why we dry timber out slowly (e.g. waxing/painting the end grain, keeping it in the shade), and use the sections that don't split! Not too convinced of the "resonator" and it's soundholes . . . I'd want a demo before forking over any cash!
  15. [quote name='Norris' timestamp='1456416249' post='2988832'] If it's super rare, and assuming it's a bolt on neck, would you be better to get a reproduction fretted neck made and store the original fretless neck away safely? [/quote] +1 If it's hard to get - And a neck through (or set neck) - I'd have a fretted copy made with some custom options (e.g. custom inlays, LEDs, paint job) to budget and to taste. Bonus points if it matches / tastefully complements the fretless one! If it's bolt on I'd say a fretted neck is a great option, and considerably cheaper than a custom instrument!
  16. [quote name='Dazed' timestamp='1456334521' post='2988018'] The grand butchery plan is: to attempt a Steinberger-esque 5/6/7 string using a cheap 5/6/7 string bass. [/quote] Ah - well that's not exactly from scratch is it! If it were I, I'd go for a bolt on design as it allows neck angle changes if you ever change the hardware - plus it makes finishing easier (for different colours where the neck only has clearcoat - otherwise, not so much). If you're installing a headless tuning system where a regular bridge was you'll probably have to do some routing and reshaping to be able to install and tune up.
  17. [quote name='Coldflows' timestamp='1456059932' post='2984931'] Ouch. Id rather have three new ones. Or ten Decos! [/quote] +1 It's a mess - and clearly worth less than new. The seller appears deluded.
  18. [quote name='timmo' timestamp='1455984383' post='2984287'] It looks like the back of a dining chair [/quote] +1 It's not hideous, but it is rather chairlike! [quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1455988671' post='2984355'] I don't get these so called "upright basses" you see for sale everywhere. Isn't this a perfect example of a bass on a stand?? [/quote] That's how it looks to me. There is a few "crossover" or hybrid designs like the Zeta: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myE6mnKkJjc"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myE6mnKkJjc[/url] They seem a little more practical than the 32" by 20" bodied creation on the ebay listing. [quote name='colgraff' timestamp='1455990468' post='2984379'] Well, its very stylish looking. I think. Looks unplayable otherwise. [/quote] I think it's pretty cool. I'm not conviced it'll sound good - given it's using a MM style humbucker. Even in single coil mode it'll sound Like a fretless electric bass with a pickup near the bridge. I'd want at least a piezo to blend with the magnetic pickup.
  19. [quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1455824310' post='2982796'] There's something about that that is just Cringe Factor Eleven. Fender: utterly, totally and absolutely creatively bankrupt. Jon. [/quote] +1 They are very much lost in the shadow of their past successes.
  20. Interesting guitar - the execution leaves a little to be desired - If it was cleaned up and the finish was repaired (a new level clear coat) it could be a nice but strange instrument. I don't think the design is terribly practical. I imagine it's pretty heavy too! Here's it's new listing (at a new, reduced price!): [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/electric-guitar-custom-unique-fabricated-steel-body-frame-see-pics-/182025738768?"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/electric-guitar-custom-unique-fabricated-steel-body-frame-see-pics-/182025738768?[/url]
  21. Looking really nice so far. Everybody makes mistakes - the trick is recovering from them. When the neck is together, with frets and the rest - It'll be near perfect I'll wager. With the strings on it'll be invisible, even up close!
  22. Truly hideous - reminds me of the time I watched that movie! The artist did a wonderful job capturing the spirit of the subject, in my opinion.
  23. If you can't try them before buying (or at least try a bass or two of the different scale lengths) you could do worse than Thomann - with their return policies you can't go too far wrong (of course you could lose the cost of postage). If you want a traditional P bass sound I'd go for the long scale - but if you're OK with a different voicing, different feel of the strings (short scales are generally much slinkier under the fingers) Or just want to make it as easy as possible to switch between playing say a 25.5" scale length - Definatly pick up a short scale. It won't handle extreme tunings as well (for example tuning BEAD like the lowest strings on a 5 string will feel much looser than long scale tuning with the same strings). I know because I am currently testing out a 5 string bass with a capo on the 2nd fret (34" scale, 2nd fret is approx 3.7 inch shorter) making it around a 30" scale length - and this sounds just fine with 40 - 125 gauge roundwounds Tuned BEADG. Quite low tension though! The descision is of course, yours.
  24. Interesting maxrossell - I hadn't thought of it from the perspective of a singing bassist. I agree it might be useful to have an "off" position, or at least a known position. If you want to keep the hardware stock (assuming it is) you might try marking the control knob (e.g. gluing a drop of epoxy to a metallic knob & mount the knob so it faces straight up or down when the pot is on approximately 50%). That way you only alter the knob and not the electronics. You could then"feel" the mark almost as easily as a detent.
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