dannybuoy

Mine escaped charges too, guess we both got lucky!

Strip of wood and two blobs of blutack? Or you could just make a new footswitch, it would be a simple DIY job. The standard 'true bypass' switches you see in most pedals flip 3 switches at once - you could link two of those to their own jack socket and the third to a LED.

I have an Aphex Xciter. It's good for making dead strings sound like new! I don't really use it much though, so could be tempted to sell it if you wanted to try one out.

Vox Amplug? Just hand out of your jack socket rather than the belt clip.

I don't think it's an issue of stressing the power supply, more that some pedals just leak noise into the shared power supply, and some pedals have better noise filtering than others.

Same issue affects most digital pedals, well every Zoom/EHX digital pedal I've had anyway, as well as the Sonus Wahoo.

Is that Mutron based, with it's hi/lo switch and switchable LPF/BPF? I'd consider getting a custom one, getting rid of the LFO, and adding a blend and expression control.

Indeed, mine should be arriving soon! I really should try more Mutron clones though, I love the Zoom Z-Tron model of the Q-Tron, sounds awesome and has a blend too. The 3Leaf Proton was ok but not quite there.

You might be better off just using the VLE knob!

I've read the 800 sounds pretty different to the 500 actually! http://www.talkbass.com/threads/markbass-little-mark-tube-800.641467/ http://www.talkbass.com/threads/markbass-little-mark-tube-800.563202/ I'm interested in trying the Big Bang myself. If it sounds good enough I might just be able to put up with the way it looks!

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1357314660' post='1920880'] Whereas I think the low-pass on a Q-Tron is the funkiest sound you can get from just a filter on bass. [/quote] I really like the Q-Tron model from the Zoom B1Xon (also B3, MS60-B, etc). Anyone directly compared the digital model to the real thing?

Yes. If it can be done by yanking wires out, it can be done with a switch! You'd need to choose carefully though as it would have a lot of current going through it, and also find a sensible place to mount it without damaging the cab.

If you like the neck on this you'd probably like the Steve Harris signature, I think the neck is very similar, perhaps even chunkier!

I've never heard of a JV trading hands for over £1500. More like £650 - £800, and around £1k for the rarer early Fender logoed examples.

Not quite - this is how I see it, although electronics gurus please correct me if I'm wrong! Think of impedance as resistance. Pickups have a lot of resistance due to all that thin tightly wound wire, whereas the output of a transistor amplifier has much less. When you combine resistance with capacitance, you make a low pass filter. This is how the basic passive tone control works to roll off top end. Your guitar cable is like one big capacitor. So when driven by a high impedance source like pickups, there is a loss of high frequencies. When driven by a low impedance source such as a preamp in an active bass, the capacitance stays constant, but as the resistance is less, the frequency cutoff of the filter is moved higher, letting more treble through.

[quote name='barkin' timestamp='1414152844' post='2586466'] I *think* the 41x's have a different (slightly slimmer) neck to the other current models - 42x/102x/202x I've recently picked up a 1024, and I love it - a rock monster! [/quote] Yup, the neck on my BB1025X is a bit thicker front to back than my old BB415!

Just put some masking tape over it and concentrate on the sound it makes!

The best sounding and most resonant P I ever played was also a Classic 50s in sunburst. I'd heard so many good things about the Roadworn, and was lucky enough to find one of each for sale locally at good prices so got them in to try. The Roadworn was much lighter but just felt lifeless compared to the Classic 50s, just seemed to sing when played unplugged. The only reason I sold it was because it was too wide at the nut and the edges of the fretboard were rather sharp which dug in uncomfortably on fingers when fretting low notes on the E. That and the slightly sticky feeling of the glossy neck.

I've noticed the Classic Vibe fiesta red P's and white J's are starting to dwindle in stock in more than one place too, I think a boatload of their models are probably being discontinued.

Nobody's mentioned Digitech's The Drop. Or just get a Hipshot Xtender and drop the low E to Eb when it suits.

Only prob with the SFT circuit is that the EQ is before the clipping stage, so you can't boost bass too much as it just ends up adding flabby overdrive. Something like the BB preamp which has the EQ on the end would be preferable!

The Squier Classic Vibes use small frets too, and I prefer them. I think they might be the only 'Fender' necks available with a 9.25" radius and vintage frets - their real vintage reissues have the curvier 7.25" radius which I don't get on with.

Passive pickups don't drive a signal too well down long cables, resulting in a loss of the high frequencies. Once the signal passes through a transistor gain stage, it is 'buffered' and can be driven down a long cable without much degradation. This is the basic premise. So, active basses have a built in buffer. Some effect pedals are true bypass, meaning they are effectively out of the chain when bypassed, but some pedals (most older pedals, plus all current Boss and Tech21 pedals for example) are buffered bypass. So if you have an active bass, or a pedal with buffered bypass early on in the chain (e.g. a Boss tuner) then you can add loads more pedals without hearing much of an effect. However, not all buffers are well designed, and some can noticeably colour the signal. So a good rule of thumb is to have one good quality buffer as close to the pickups as possible, then use true bypass pedals for the rest of the signal chain!

Baxandall treble/bass EQ then would probably be the best bet!