dannybuoy

My Kala was out of tune above the 7th fret. If I was to buy one again it would be a fretless so I can make adjustments myself by ear! You can adjust the action by shaving down the bridge saddle piece, but it's not that necessary since a high action is still very playable as the strings are so flexible.

[quote name='dave_bass5' timestamp='1461740234' post='3037179'] Any chance a smartphone would do the job? I can't think of anything smaller. I use Amp kit on my iPhone for learning songs at home now and it works really well. Got Spotify/iTunes/YouTube on tap. I also used to use my Zoom B3 and that worked very well, but i found I didn't use it enough to keep it. I wouldn't try it with the Zoom 60B though. [/quote] Definitely, I have a Line6 Sonic Port that does a great job. Much better amp sims available than on the Zoom - I've bought them all and actually prefer the Ampeg sims recently added to the free Garageband app! Like the Zoom it doesn't drive my headphones very loud, but if you have lower impedance cans you should be fine. Or there are tons of alternative interfaces out there that probably have better headphone amps in them.

Relic basses can look cool but I think it has to be a Fender/Musicman or something that's been around since the 70s! That said, I do like this Sandberg!

[quote name='chrisgriff' timestamp='1461580669' post='3035769'] Its a shame the Yamaha bb1024 isn't available as a fretless......I wonder if anyone has done a fretted to fretless conversion of the 1024? [/quote] This BB414 has changed hands a few times on here - it has an unlined ebony board fitted:

Problem with them is they don't typically have inputs with the correct impedance for hooking up a passive bass direct - it will work but will sound very muddy. No problem plugging straight into the line in if you have an active bass, or are using a pedal in between that buffers the signal (which means pretty much any pedal switched on or some are also buffered in bypass mode like Boss pedals). I've used either a DI box into a Behringer Micromon MA400 or a pedal into a cheapo Behringer mixer before with good results!

Key for me is how the overdrive and cab sim sound. Currently my headphone practice rig consists of: Tuner -> Le Bass -> OmniCabSim -> PJB Bighead 4 boxes, 3 of them very expensive. If I could consolidate those I would be a happy bunny!

I wouldn't call the soundcard functionality an odd thing at all, more like essential considering what it does and the form factor. As well as on a pedalboard, I would use it as a table-top headphone practice rig (so I could play music from my laptop over the USB) or for recording. I use a PJB Bighead along with my Two Notes Le Bass, this box could perhaps replace both. The USB socket on top looks daft but I suppose it makes it easier to use if you have it on a tightly crammed board.

[quote name='Cato' timestamp='1461568118' post='3035633'] It can be a very useful resource but it does manage to convey the impression that humour is somehow frowned upon and that discussions about bass guitaring are no place for levity. That's the main reason I've never signed up. [/quote] Not so in the effects forum, the post-your-pedalboard threads for example have more banter than boards!

My first bass, a Yamaha RBX270F, can be picked up for absolute peanuts and is a great bass. Not sure on the nut width though!

The AC10 more AC outputs than you'd need - it's rare for pedals to need AC these days so you'd probably let a few of those go to waste. Also the CS-12 can give you 18V outputs which are very common on bass pedals these days - if you ever fancy trying an Aguilar Tone Hammer, Diamond Bass Compressor, Catalinbread SFT or Pike Vulcan, it will have you covered!

Get a piece of string, measure it and round it to the nearest cm. That many!

No substitute for the real thing, I've never heard a good fretless effect from a pedal. My first bass was a fretless - it doesn't take long to get used to it!

[quote name='fryer' timestamp='1461267304' post='3033216'] The Fwonk sounds good - where do you find these things ? And thank you uncle [/quote] I found that one by subscribing to PedalsAndEffects.com's YouTube channel. Anderton's sell Mr Black pedals over here, might be worth asking them when they will be getting them in. He sells direct but doesn't ship overseas, so I used shipito.com to forward the parcel over here. He does regular sales too (e.g. last weekend any pedal for $140 and they are £140 here) so it's worth subscribing to his newsletter if you're interested in buying one via this method. Also keep an eye on the Talkbass FX forum, a lot more activity over there!

That 9V-18V charge pump circuit is actually used in loads of pedals these days. So if Pedaltrain say the Volto can work with an EHX Glove for example, that is no different to using the Diago adapter with an 18V pedal. No reason why you couldn't use two of them, however if the pedals don't draw too much current you could use a splitter off a single 18V adapter.

Another video review: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8UnQDrlFAk[/media] The blended Muff/Rat at the end sounds immense! They're in stock at Prymaxe, I could order from there and save a few bob but would end up with a US power supply, so will hang onto my Bass Direct pre-order. Too busy to play with the thing anyway and this looks like a real time-sapper! Not one but two Darkglass models in this thing, one more modern and one more mellow!

I would recommend the OneSpot TrueTone CS-12. It can do 9/12/18V DC and 9V AC. Also you can push the outputs way past the labelling as long as you don't exceed the output rated for the entire brick, as indicated on their product page and confirmed by their support - e.g. I should be able to power my Two Notes Le Bass at 12V 500mA with it, which not many other bricks can claim! Just trying to decide whether or not I can get away with the CS-7, as I don't need the AC out and don't mind running a few pedals off the same output. [url="http://truetone.com/power-supplies/1-spot-pro/1-spot-pro-c12zzz/"]http://truetone.com/...pot-pro-c12zzz/[/url] Fits under a PT-Jr too and even comes with the required brackets: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRLYZIJmPa0[/media]

I think they are just erring on the side of caution, under normal operation the adapter should not damage your Volto. Sounds like a canned response from a support person who perhaps doesn't understand what this adapter does. If your Vulcan still hisses when it's the only pedal connected to the supply and the only one in your signal chain, then the isolation adapter will not help you either.

[quote name='fryer' timestamp='1461132650' post='3031644'] Thank you DB. I am also thinking of changing the FM to something else - any suggestions ? [/quote] Mr Black Fwonkbeta is my favourite, or the MXR Bass Envelope Filter for a totally different sound... http://basschat.co.uk/topic/258306-filter-quest

It matters, there are a few general rules of thumb but they can all be broken! Think of what each pedal does to your sound and how that would affect the next pedal in line, and the correct order (for you) should become apparent. E.g. Distortion would mask the effect of modulation pedals and squash the natural decay of delay/reverb tails... So dirt usually comes before those types of effects. But sometimes you want that sound, e.g. a phaser into fuzz can sound different but cool. Envelope filters respond to your playing dynamics so they should come early in the chain... Unless you also have an octaver that tracks better if it's before the filter. Then again you might just prefer the synthier sound of putting filters after dirt. Just experiment and use what sounds best! I would start with Duality -> Funky Monkey -> Multiwave -> Shimverb, then try the filter after the Multiwave if it doesn't sound good before it.

These are a bit bulkier but offer much more protection, almost as good as a hard case: http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Protection-Racket-Bass-Guitar-Foam-Case-Standard/KHX

[quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1460840294' post='3029303'] [attachment=217171:IMG_20160416_211928.jpg] Here's where my PT Mini currently stands. PWNZOR > TK-421-X > Musket clone > Modified BJFE Blueberry clone > Enabler. Need better patch leads (EBS look good)... and possibly something double the size judging by the number of REALLY GOOD spare pedals I have sitting around that didn't make the cut! The mess of leads is making my OCD do nasty things... Questions for the collective. Should I move the Blueberry in front of the COG? It'll be on most of the time in this setup... [/quote] I would definitely have the Blueberry early in the chain. I don't like what it does to other distortion pedals, I would prefer to have the option of using it to boost into the Big Muff instead.

[quote name='Bo0tsy' timestamp='1460815316' post='3029036'] I want my filters to sound a bit lo-fi and sloppy like they do on a 70's Funk record [/quote] That's EXACTLY what it sounds like! You wouldn't know it was digital from listening to it. I didn't like the Source Audio stuff either, too clean sounding. I can still dig in pretty hard without clipping it, just not with that particular active bass with boosted EQ digging in as hard as I can.

The Fwonkbeta is AWESOME. The most warmest, wettest, greasiest, and most expressive vocal-like filter I've played. It makes any other filter sound subtle in comparison. The manual is most accurate in it's description! http://www.mrblack.jackdeville.com/manuals/fwonkbeta-manual.pdf The only downside with it is nasty clipping if I dig in REALLY hard with my Sandberg Basic with a bit of mid and bass boost. The MXR handles that bass fine and the Meatball slightly overdrives in a nice way... But the Mr Black is digital so doesn't like being overloaded. There will be a Mini and original Q-Tron and Nano Bassballs going up for sale soon...