dannybuoy

The majority of people probably won't even touch the editor (not everyone's as geeky as us lot!) so they need a bunch of presets for each unit that sound good in the shop I suppose. Still waiting for mine...

Both good, both different. Hard to quantify really! Best to watch the various videos and let your ears decide. If you are interested in the VMTD I would make sure to get the new version with boost/attack switches or the Ultra version do out any time now.

How are the overdriven sounds out of this thing?

I love my OTB... but it's very dark sounding without a pedal to liven it up a bit. If you're not into pedals and want a versatile amp with a good drive sound, I would suggest the Tech 21 VT500. There's one for sale on here for £300 and I've been on the fence about getting it myself!

I prefer the smaller body and thinner neck, but I've heard numerous Stingray vs Sterling comparisons on YouTube and whatnot and the Rays always sounded best to me, especially the 2-band / Classics.

Even if you don't touch the editor - you have a tube drive, a B7K-a-like and a Big Muff all available on the toggle switch by default!

None of the above. Tort!

I've seen on Talkbass someone powering both the Le Bass and Torpedo Cab off a single Truetone CS-7 power supply. I checked with their support and they confirmed you don't need current doubler cables with this unit, you can ignore the mA ratings on the individual outputs as long as you don't exceed the total for the supply. So even though the 12V output is labelled 200mA, it has no issues pumping out 500mA. I've just ordered one! http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/true-tone-1spot-cs7-7-way-power-block-power-supply-5809-p.asp

To cover 9V, 12V and 18V (which you might not need right now but lots of pedals either require it or sound better at 18), my selection came down to: Truetone CS-7 / CS-12 T-Rex Chameleon Voodo ISO-5 CIOKS DC-5 MXR ISO Brick (although 12V is only possible if you carefully measure the adjustable outputs!) However the advantage the Truetone has is that you can ignore the mA rating on the labels as long as you don't exceed the total for the entire supply. This means I can power my Two Notes Le Bass which requires 12V 500mA from a single socket - with most other power bricks you would need to use a current doubler cable hooked up to two 12V outputs to power it.

Every single digital pedal I've ever used has either introduced digital clock whine or hiss into the audio path as soon as it's put on a shared power supply. You can get isolation adapter tips but it's best to just get a better power supply. I'm thinking of picking up the OneSpot Truetone CS-7 or CS-12. The MXR ISO-Brick looks great too, but I need a 12V output too. There are lots of cheaper supplies out these days that look like they at isolated but in fact are not, so be sure to read up on them before putting down your cash!

I've tried a TON of filters and MXR is by far the best I've found for slap. What are you using at the moment?

[quote name='chaypup' timestamp='1462088812' post='3040085'] My sax player just text me to let me know Vulfpeck are playing in London in September. [/quote] Thanks, just bought tickets for the Saturday!!! http://axs.com/uk/search?q=Vulfpeck

I did my homework on this one a while back since I loved that tone so much! Turns out it's a Carlo Robelli, which is the cheap entry level in-house brand from American music store Long & McQuade - probably on the same level as Harley Benton and Jack & Danny: I heard on a podcast it was strung with TI flats, and from a Reddit AMA the bass belongs to drummer / band leader Jack Stratton, as Joe only owns a Fender Jazz! I have a Sandberg Basic, which with the mids boosted and played into my Orange Terror Bass does a great impression of that sound. A 2-band Stingray would do the trick as well I reckon. There was a Tobias Growler for sale around here recently that had my interest that has an MM pickup in the sweet spot and a very similar body shape too!

He's my favourite player at the moment - love this one in particular! http://youtu.be/yKg_3kyIhHc

Having listened to a ton of J pup demos recently, I really liked the sound of the Fender Custom Shop 60s and Nordstrand NJ4.

My Kala was out of tune above the 7th fret. If I was to buy one again it would be a fretless so I can make adjustments myself by ear! You can adjust the action by shaving down the bridge saddle piece, but it's not that necessary since a high action is still very playable as the strings are so flexible.

[quote name='dave_bass5' timestamp='1461740234' post='3037179'] Any chance a smartphone would do the job? I can't think of anything smaller. I use Amp kit on my iPhone for learning songs at home now and it works really well. Got Spotify/iTunes/YouTube on tap. I also used to use my Zoom B3 and that worked very well, but i found I didn't use it enough to keep it. I wouldn't try it with the Zoom 60B though. [/quote] Definitely, I have a Line6 Sonic Port that does a great job. Much better amp sims available than on the Zoom - I've bought them all and actually prefer the Ampeg sims recently added to the free Garageband app! Like the Zoom it doesn't drive my headphones very loud, but if you have lower impedance cans you should be fine. Or there are tons of alternative interfaces out there that probably have better headphone amps in them.

Relic basses can look cool but I think it has to be a Fender/Musicman or something that's been around since the 70s! That said, I do like this Sandberg!

[quote name='chrisgriff' timestamp='1461580669' post='3035769'] Its a shame the Yamaha bb1024 isn't available as a fretless......I wonder if anyone has done a fretted to fretless conversion of the 1024? [/quote] This BB414 has changed hands a few times on here - it has an unlined ebony board fitted:

Problem with them is they don't typically have inputs with the correct impedance for hooking up a passive bass direct - it will work but will sound very muddy. No problem plugging straight into the line in if you have an active bass, or are using a pedal in between that buffers the signal (which means pretty much any pedal switched on or some are also buffered in bypass mode like Boss pedals). I've used either a DI box into a Behringer Micromon MA400 or a pedal into a cheapo Behringer mixer before with good results!

Key for me is how the overdrive and cab sim sound. Currently my headphone practice rig consists of: Tuner -> Le Bass -> OmniCabSim -> PJB Bighead 4 boxes, 3 of them very expensive. If I could consolidate those I would be a happy bunny!

I wouldn't call the soundcard functionality an odd thing at all, more like essential considering what it does and the form factor. As well as on a pedalboard, I would use it as a table-top headphone practice rig (so I could play music from my laptop over the USB) or for recording. I use a PJB Bighead along with my Two Notes Le Bass, this box could perhaps replace both. The USB socket on top looks daft but I suppose it makes it easier to use if you have it on a tightly crammed board.

[quote name='Cato' timestamp='1461568118' post='3035633'] It can be a very useful resource but it does manage to convey the impression that humour is somehow frowned upon and that discussions about bass guitaring are no place for levity. That's the main reason I've never signed up. [/quote] Not so in the effects forum, the post-your-pedalboard threads for example have more banter than boards!

My first bass, a Yamaha RBX270F, can be picked up for absolute peanuts and is a great bass. Not sure on the nut width though!