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dannybuoy

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Everything posted by dannybuoy

  1. I'm not sure, but by eyeballing it alone, it looks like it might be 70s Jazz spacing (that puts the bridge pup closer to the bridge than usual), and the MM slightly north of the sweet spot.
  2. Nice, I always fancied a bass with this pickup layout, but only Atelier Z seemed to produce them!
  3. That's spectacular. Another slice of classic Hoff:
  4. I'd just post the results to the thread now that it's been up for a while. #1, which seems to be most people's favourite, is quite surprising and not even a chorus pedal!
  5. Love my P & flats into the Tonehammer DI, the amp is even better as the drive control is equivalent to the AGS switch but more variable!
  6. I'd like to know the results - I say keep #1 and chuck the rest!
  7. TC Mojomojo with my P Bass for a vintage Motown kind of sound. Tech21 YYZ or DuG for more modern rock sounds with my BB1025X. I don't really need any other pedals!
  8. Even if you just use drive and compression, one of these units can work out cheaper than separates if you like crossover bi-amping like the DuG pedal/amp, and then you get all the possibilities of using various guitar amps on the top end!
  9. I'd go for a Ryzen rather than Intel, more cores per £, which really helps with video.
  10. Worth mentioning that there is quite a wide range of Precision necks. I have small hands and find the current models with the 1.625" / 41mm nut width to be just perfect for me, but I had a Classic 50s with 1.75" / 44.5mm nut that I found uncomfortable, particularly due to the sharpness of the fingerboard digging in to my finger when reaching for a low F. I'm not 100% (although I'm sure someone here could clarify) but apart from the true vintage basses I think it's only the 57 & 62 USA reissues, the MIM 50s / Roadworn, and old Squier JVs that have the wider necks. Most of the Japanese 'reissues' don't have the classic chunky neck profile. Then even among them there will be a variation of depth front to back, I suspect the 60s ones may be slimmer than the 50s but don't quote me on that! There was a period in the 70s where the necks were very slim, in between a J & P, and the Nate Mendel sig is based on that neck profile. Jazz basses have a 1.5" / 38mm nut and tend to have skinnier necks in general. Some people find this more comfortable, but others report hand cramping and prefer a chunkier neck. You can always fit a J neck to a P though and vice versa!
  11. Camtasia was my favourite to use from all the ones I tested, however that was mainly because I was looking to produce tutorial style videos with lots of screen recordings, which is its forte. It's pretty expensive though at £230, and it doesn't come with a great selection of assets (they get you to pay more for that on subscription) and it can't do outlines around text which I thought was a pretty basic omission! I didn't realise Premiere Elements was only £86.56, I didn't try that one out mainly because I'd excluded Premiere from my shortlist due to not wanting to pay for an astronomical subscription fee, and forgot that Elements existed!
  12. If you're not bothered about tap tempo (it's a massive PITA to get right using it live anyway, and depending on the song you might not need it), an analog delay has the added benefit of making cool spaceship noises - here's the cheapo TC posted earlier: I had an MXR Carbon Copy mounted sideways so I could roll the knobs with my foot and play it like an alien theremin!
  13. I tried a ton recently. Try OpenShot if you like the simple interface of Windows Movie Maker. KdenLive is a popular free one too. Out of the cheapest paid options, I quite liked Filmora. My laptop chugged when trying to play anything back in DaVinci Resolve whereas many of these simpler programs worked great.
  14. Sounds like a great choice for a Motown bass:
  15. Both! Depending on how you set the compressor. You can have it set up like a limiter, high ratio and threshold, and fast attack, to tame any unwanted boosts. Great for agressive envelope filters, but beware of using it as a crutch rather than just setting your pedal levels properly, you don't want an overly squashed tone because one of your pedals is too loud. The more subtle effect compression has is in shaping the attack of the note - because there is an adjustable time delay before the effect kicks in, it can accentuate the attack of the note and make it sound more punchy whilst simultaneously evening your overall volume out.
  16. I'd say the sunburst is a better fit for your retro bands, the matte black more at home with a rock / metal band, but get whatever floats your boat!
  17. And by sheer coincidence, this just popped up today: https://bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Fender_Precision_CIJ_3_TSB.html
  18. I know you were after a Darkglass pedal too, both the newer Zooms (B1Four or B3n) and HX Stomp have a great B7K model.
  19. The ones WD Music sell are pretty good, definitely not printed on as you can see the colour differences through the thickness of the material.
  20. I wouldn't say it's dark just by that video, we've no idea where the tone control was set or what he was playing through. The previous American Professional's pickup wasn't dark or muddy, and the blurb says the new one is even more articulate.
  21. The Behringer BDI21 is a very popular Sansamp BDDI clone that can be found new for just over £20. Very well regarded around these parts. Like the original though, it does have a mid scoop that may or may not be an issue. There's also the Joyo American Sound if you wanted a warmer more vintage tone with more mids, although it doesn't have a DI out.
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