BassBod

Recently bought an SWR amp from Martin. Discussed via PM over a considerable timescale. Arranged for a friend to collect it on his travels, no problem whatsoever. Exactly as described etc etc Many thanks - deal with confidence BB

Maybe call Oasis Music in Ringwood - they must have a few repair techs and will know the good ones...

I don't have a micro head, but do a have a small combo arriving soon....so might be selling a Crazy 8 soon. PM me if its of interest?

I've had several in my F2B over the years. GE 5751's sound very good, but you do notice a slight gain reduction. EH and Sovtek LPS 12AX7 also sound great, but are more aggressive and middy. I've had GE 12AX7's in for a few years and they are fine. The only valves I dislike are Groove Tubes removed from various 90's SWR amps - they always sound harsh and edgy to me. To be honest, I can only hear differences in isolation - you aren't going to hear anything that's very significant in a gig context. As long as its working to spec it will sound good. My F2B has never had metal tube shields fitted, so I wouldn't be too bothered unless you can hear an increase in background hum/noise without it. It also had (original?) Amperex valves (1978 or older?) fitted, which I've had in my SWR amps for years…still working fine.

Crazy 8. Look it up on Talkbass. Great sound with amazing depth.

Yes, the Picato nickel rounds are also very nice, although not as lively or long lasting as the DR Sunbeams. Also half the (thomann) price and made in Wales.

[attachment=150666:IMG_0635.jpg] Mine is a standard 34" scale J bass - but there is plenty of the full thickness going around the tuner posts. I've never had a problem with breakage (but have with some flats)

DR Sunbeams. Like normal strings, but nicer. TI flats are great..but a bit too floppy for me.

Superglue is fine - just use a small drop. It is easy to unstick again with a light tap, and doesn't usually take any wood with it. Don't really stick it down with anything strong (epoxy) you just want it to stay put.

Yep, my Alembic preamp has the same tone section = double mid scoop with an SWR 4x10. Gave me a shock when I first tried it, but as you say 2/10/2 gets you back to normality and you can work up a sound quite easily form there.

Go back to "flat" often…and see if you've improved the sound. And always re-set to flat in a new room. Works wonders.

Any used Eden or SWR should fine and produce plenty of volume - the main issue with these cabs is their bulk and weight. If that is not a concern, then you can get some very good deals. One thing to watch with that combination is too much mid cut. Eden and SWR (and I assume Hartke) 4x10's have a distinct hole in the middle of their frequency response - but so does the preamp in your amp. Be prepared to boost the mid range and go gentle on the lows to get definition and presence.

OLD Trace - GP11 MkIV. Painted wood or vinyl covering with odd XLR input. Or GK800RB. Or any old big power amp and preamp of your choice (look at the Gear Porn section for some good ones).

Yep..makes sense..

Why two? One para eq is enough to drive me to distraction….but two?

This sorry tale reminds me of a few times I've seen very experienced players who seem to have no "feel" for setting up amps/preamps etc. Just turn everything up, hit it hard, then maybe turn it up a bit more…same thing with some engineers - if its not hitting the red its not on,is it? My master volumes hardly ever go past half way, and I find these modern amps that just keep getting louder past the mid-point very strange…its just not natural. Not that I'm a clean freak, its just that (for me) drive should come from the front end of the amp…the back end is for necessary stage volume, not ego. Then there's the PA. I like the phrase painted on ears. Seen plenty of those. To the OP - make whatever noises you fell necessary, but don't hold your breath. Get new speakers and move on…lesson learned.

I've always liked them - warmer than real single coils, but its a sound that works very well in any situation. And I think the cream covers are nice..but that's probably just my generation.

I've recently changed a set of batteries - they were at least a year old, tested fine on my old tester..but in the bass they produced a "static" type noise and the occasional thump. New batteries fixed the problem. My thinking is the tester is looking for one thing (voltage?) but the guitar circuit also needs something else, like more amps?? Can anyone explain?

Very nice Kevin…..