BassBod

[quote name='Mr Bassman' timestamp='1382225573' post='2249586'] These are great on a spike but i think the walking stick ferrule might be best for a thicker wooden end pin [/quote] Probably right there - I had one on my Clifton for at least ten years before it wore out. Now it has one of the rubber balls fitted onto the metal spike.

I've got one with only a "main out" socket, and never worked out if it is a line level or speaker output. I've also been told that they used 4ohm internal speakers, which makes an external one more complicated.

This is it (from Thomann) Wolf Super Endpin

Could I fit my current "Wolf" rubber ball thing on the end? Its about the only thing I've found that doesn't skid around on tiled floors. I seem to play in a lot of places with hard tiled flooring.

Like this?

I've always wondered - I much prefer the idea of a wooden post, that you just take out rather than this "must go up into the body" thing that always plays up. A hole with a tapered stick seems a simple and elegant alternative. Very interested...

I'd be tempted to put them aside and invest in some modern "vintage" replacements - Aguilar humbuckers etc. I've had microphonic J bass pickups potted (Barenuckle) and it reduced the problem a lot, but didn't completley remove it. You can keep the original covers on with most modern replacements, and always go back to them if you feel the need.

Yes, you can run a DI from the effects send, or a preamp output...but are you trying to avoid the eq of the GK? The growl could be tamed with different gain and eq settings.

If it wasn't built as a metal box rack unit (ie it was sold in the wooden sleeve) then chances are it is a face plate with preamp circuit..and then a back plate with power supply and power amp, and nothing in between.

I'd suggest the K&K Puretone (from memory) Two plates that stick underneath the bridge, inside the body. Comes with an endpin jack socket already connected - fit as passive, then run into a preamp/DI of your choice. Look at Bob Gollihur's site?

And relax....

Yes, as predicted...one speaker in my Baby Blue just fell apart - rubber surround rotted and useless. Time to search for some suitable replacements....

So, will they drop? The suspense is unbearable......

Well, I'm excited for you..if that helps...

One of the reasons I like mine is that they are older, well known technology. Fairly easy to get repaired when necessary and don't appear to need much in the way of specialist parts. That will change over time, and they seem to be closed for business now..but they are not in the "disposable"if anything goes wrong class. They've got issues - heat build up can be frightening, noisy fans, the extreme low end can kill speakers, exact replacement speakers probably aren't made these days, the tweeters fry (if you turn them on and use them) the aluminium fronts can bend (done that too) they are stoneage heavy etc etc But overall, I've found them to be very well built, reliable and good sounding designs.

Here's an old Baby Blue - very nice it is too, although I know the speaker surrounds will eventually fall apart. Must have been a revelation when it was introduced, way back when... [attachment=145000:IMG_0264.JPG]

I think they are spendy..but worth it. Alex does take his products very seriously and spends a lot of time and effort getting them to market - nothing like the good ol' days of making an MDF box and chucking in one or four of the most generic speakers that could be got in quantity at low prices, so that it looked like every other company's product and fitted the market. That was a bit cynical, I know but that was how it seemed many years ago. You could only get generic and heavy speakers for bass. I'm really enjoying the new world! I'd love to upgrade my Midget for a new version..but I can wait. It still does what I bought it for, even if the new version does it slightly better.

The lightest grey 3M plastic wool stuff will do fine - but the neck will slowly revert to gloss so you'll probably have to re-do once or twice a year. Go gentle and you won't get down to the wood for a few years.

Spiro mediums (red silk both ends) on acoustic and EUB. It just gets too expensive to experiment, and I have to play all sorts of music...so I decided to man up and just get used to them. Its working, as long as I don't have more than two days without playing. I think string choice and set up go together - its not like bass guitar where there are only small (user) adjustments are needed. Over the years I've used loads - Superflexibles (they weren't) Innovation Honeys (nice, but windings moved on core) Innovation Rockabilly (great, may go back one day) D'Addario Helicore (much like Spiro's, but not) LaBella black plastic (very nice, and sounded great on EUB).

I can't see any real benefit from running two pickups like that. Two that cover all four strings, (to get different sounds etc) but not pickups that favour only a pair of strings? Its also good to have two pickups fitted and working so that you have a spare if one fails on a gig. They do. As for swapping instruments...you really need two channels. Amps like the Euphonic Micro or Acoustic Image..but they are pricey and fairly scarce. Look for used ones in the For Sales? Other than than, there are pedals like the Radial Tonebone, but look carefully at the eq options and power choices. The Sansamp programable Bass Driver DI pedal may be a good option, as it will do both the switching and give you dedicated eq. Also does the DI,obviously! A simple A/B footswitch could do it for you...but I've always found any bass guitar needs good EQ to stand up to EUB or double bass. I did this for a long time with an A/B footswitch, then into an old Sansamp Bass Driver DI. Amp set up for EUB, then bass guitar selected on A/B and Sansamp circuit and eq engaged. It was two clicks rather than one, but it worked.