JPJ

I used spray carpet adhesive to good effect, along with contact adhesive. You can use PVA to glue the 'field' which will give you time to adjust the tolex but I'd always recommend contact adhesive for the edges unless you've lots of clamps, batons and patience!

Its probably fair to say that we are a conservative lot and have for years been fed speaker cabinets in 4 and 8 ohm nominal impedance variants by the big company marketing depts. so are less tolerant of other numbers. I for one remember the 3x10 5.33ohm cabs of not so long ago, and the fact that these have more or less disappeared suggests that our love of 4 & 8 is pretty deeply engrained. I currently run a (nominally 4ohm) 6x10 as my main cab and I love it. It does exactly what I want it to do and it 'sounds' like I want it to 'sound' but here's the rub, the manufacturer is no longer in business. Getting spare drivers therefore is a no-no so if (when) a driver or two give up the ghost, I'll have no alternative but to recone the thing using proprietary 4 or 8 ohm drivers for a nominal (you guessed it) 5.33ohm load. I continue to be intrigued by the Barefaced story, but not intrigued enough yet to part with any cash (sorry Alex). I felt I really understood the 'science' behind the original three-way cabs and having heard my bass through top end three-way PA gear, I could see the rationale. However, now the story has changed to 'actually two-way is just as good' which concerns me and makes me wonder whether the latest recruit at Barefaced HQ isn't an accountant. I get what Alex is trying to do, and I've heard a number of his cabs 'in real life' situations and as a result, I think I understand what this lack of colouration means. I'm still not sure that this transparency is what I would like behind me, but one-day I know I'm going to have to part with the cash and find out for myself, but the latest Gen3 stuff does make me wonder whether he isn't heading a little more 'main stream'.

Its a total subjective subject Personally, I like tens because they 'appear' to give me the sound I like. That said, loudspeaker technology has advanced so much in the last 10 years that I'd probably like 12's and 15's if I tried them. I was reading the specs on one FaitalPro 12" LF driver the other day that had a resonant frequency of 45hz and an Xmax of 12.45mm - thats an awful lot of air moving trouser flapping capability in a lightweight neo driver package

I've just bought a QSC PLX1602 poweramp from Mike. Great deal, very friendly communications (despite my souk style bartering) and fast turnaround. Amp arrived in great condition in the original packaging along with the power cable and the manual. Its obvious Mike takes care of his gear, deal with him with confidence.

GK have their own version of bi-amping. Using their RB series cabs with their heads has a separate amp for the tweeter (50w) and then the main amp for the drivers. To achieve this they use 4 pole speakons where the +1/-1 terminals carry the main amp to the drivers and the +2/-2 terminals carry the tweeter amp to the tweeter. From what was posted earlier, according to the manual in bridge mode, you get a full range signal on +1/-1 so a conventional 2 pole speakon lead will take the full bridge mono output to another manufacturers cab such as the SWR.

Is there no manufacturers out there doing a mono amp with reasonable output rather than having to have a stereo amp in bridge mode?

Then it should be ok with a standard +1/-1 speakon lead. BTW the goliath Snr is one hell of a cab. I'm in the process of replacing two goliath 4x10's with mine (one 4x10 already gone to a new home)

Based on what page 10 says, using a standard +1/-1 wired two conductor speakon lead should allow you to access the bridge mono mode on the 2001 and link this to the Goliath Snr. Does the manual state which speakon output to use for bridge mono operation (normally channel 1 on bridged power amps)?

The Goliath Snr is definitely 4 ohms. I run my SM1500 in bridged mode into this cab and all is fine as long as I keep the bass control under er control and obviously don't try to run the cab at the full output of the amp. The SM1500 has a different arrangement of outputs as it has a separate speakon socket just for bridged mono mode as well as left & right speakon sockets for stereo or bi-amp mode.

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1398626548' post='2435972'] Phew... I thought you were going to post a picture of Mrs. WoT. [/quote] Oh your gonna be toast sonny jim if Rach sees that comment..........

Had a quick look at it in winisd and for that cabinet volume, adding a second port isn't going to do anything meaningful and the roll off below 100hz is fairly steep. Probably the best thing you could do (if you haven't already) is add some good acoustic wadding to the inside surfaces of the cab to cut down on the reflections and try and 'clean' things up a bit. [b]Note[/b]: use of the term 'clean' is not meant to imply any sort of acoustic engineering knowledge on the part of the author. Other acoustic engineers may offer more relevant advice

Easiest way to get that broken screw out is to heat it with a soldering iron until the wood around the threads starts to burn then pull it out using a pliers.

My Overwater perception has an ebony board as it began life as a fretless. The ebony on that one has shrunk quite a bit and I had to have the bass doc dress the fret ends as it felt like running your palm along a zip. In truth, it could probably do with being done again. Personally, I wouldn't take the risk on a fretted bass.

It's not that difficult, Tolex or vinyl is slightly harder than carpet but the techniques are the same. Use Evostik spray adhesive and get yourself a good staple gun and plenty of staples and work in a well ventilated space or it'll be the eighties all over again!

[quote name='Alan Fourstrings' timestamp='1397166269' post='2421509'] Something like this, I suppose... Go for it! This is the best setup I have for years. The QSC PLX and the SWR MM preamp together are perfect. [/quote] That's what I've got in mind Alan :-)

If it helps, I've found if you overcoat the decal with a couple of fine coats of the lacquer your going to use on the headstock before you do the waterslide bit there is less chance of the decal lifting when you start to lacquer over it.

Just wanted to share this with you guys and girls. I'm a huge fan of small local businesses and when I came across a local leathersmith (is that what you call them?) I was tempted to replace my ageing (30+ yrs old) pick-pocket strap with something a little wider and longer. A couple of quick phone calls and a few Facebook messages later and this was delivered this morning. First off, this is made from a really quality piece of 3.5mm thick leather and is 3 1/2" wide giving good support across the shoulder/back. The carvings are beautifully executed and I'm afraid the iPhone photos don't do them justice. The symbols all mean something to me and help to personalise the strap. The belt loop is another custom addition and is designed to host my Line6 wireless pack. The company behind this are Caer Urfa Leather [url="http://caerurfaleather.co.uk/"]http://caerurfaleather.co.uk[/url] or for the Facebookers amongst us [url="https://www.facebook.com/CaerUrfaLeather"]https://www.facebook...CaerUrfaLeather[/url] Caer Urfa I am reliably informed is the Roman name for South Shields. Price-wise, it depends upon the carvings, but lets just say this was cheaper than a plain shop bought alternative! If you fancy something similar why not give them a call or drop them a message. They do a whole range of leather products including some wicked motorcycle saddles.

Speak as you find and contra to the above, I've just completed a deal with JH82Bass and found him to be an excellent seller, friendly communications, and a pleasure to do business with. I would have no problems dealing with Joe again.

Been after one of the these for a while now and due to the demise of SWR these are only going to become rarer with the passage of time so when the opportunity to put together a local deal involving my Goliath 4x10 that I was selling and the M2 preamp JH82Bass was selling on here, it was too good an opportunity to pass up. As some will know, I currently have the monstrous SM1500 head which, whilst being [u]the[/u] perfect bass head for volume and tone, is only let down by the weight of this beast that means its pretty difficult one-man lift and you certainly don't want to carry it too far on your own The M2 has an almost identical layout to the SM1500, save for the 1500's second bank of semi-parametric mid controls. Other than that, the bass intensifier, full compressor, boost, aural enhancer etc are all present and correct. According to Mr Miller, he re-centred the frequency band of the aural enhancer, but in truth, I can't (as yet) detect any difference between this version and the 1500's (or the 750x/Black Beauty/Redhead that have proceeded this). The only slight negative is that SWR omitted a headphone out jack, which on a piece of pro-kit like this is a pretty big omission, but its one I can live with. Now I just need a nice lightweight power amp for a portable rig with that unmistakable JPJ tone [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1007_zpsaef14510.jpg[/IMG]

[quote name='Shockwave' timestamp='1396729365' post='2416911'] Now adding the burst effect. [/quote] Holy sh*t Batman, that thing is gorgeous

I went down the stacked Vol/Tone per pickup route on my bitsa PJ fretless. Our very own Kigon supplied the circuit and its the best decision I've made in a long while as the bass is so flexible.