JPJ

My solution would be one of the bar handles recessed into the top of the cab. As all the Barefaced cabs are so light and a one- handed lift, one handle recessed into the top would seem to make sense to me as it doesn't interfere with the airflow in the slot port. PS Alex, if you decide to adopt this idea, there is no design fee from me, but a donation of a 'big one' will be gratefully accepted ;-)

Couple of sets winging there way to you next week. Good on you sir!

Just completed a deal with Dave involving his Overwater Perception and my Stingray 5. The deal was agreed back in May this year, but due to my work commitments we only got a chance to meet up and exchange basses today (1st August). Dave's a top gent and credit to our forum - thanks again for being so patient Dave

Cheers gents, I'm planning on tidying up the wiring in my Schroeder 21012 which is 1100w at 8 ohms but as its wired as a series pair of 10's in parallel with the 12 I guess 13amp cable will be fine :-)

Kees, I'll be watching this build with great interest. I've always liked the original series shape but have never been too keen on the headstock shape. Pure genius to mate the original body with the progress headstock!

As the title says, what is the best wire gauge and type for rewiring speaker cabinets. In the past, I've been told just to use 13 amp electrical cable but is this really the best or is there something better?

Looks really cool as is, but rather than pin striping, I'd consider a black pearloid plate

As a committed Overwater strings user, I'd wait for the Overwaters

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1373999304' post='2144128'] White Sound were based in Sunderland, I think...? [/quote] They also had a place in the Handyside Arcade for a while in the late seventies/early eighties. I remember when it closed there was one massive old 4x12 left behind (thinking back, it could have been a 4x15 by the size of it) in the empty shop. Often wonder what became of it....

As some on here will know, I own what is probably the heaviest amp known to man but despite my advancing years and failing back, I cannot find anything lighter that provides the sheer depth of this thing - my beloved SWR SM1500. However, on the last couple of gigs, I've noticed that the mid range seems to ebb and flow over the course of the gig. To explain, I start off with a nice bit of mid grind in the tone and at certain times this seems, to me at least, to disappear to be replaced by a lot more bottom end. I've emailed SWR's helpful customer services (3 times, no reply) so I'm putting it out to you guys for your help and guidance. Could this be a sign that the pre amp valve is reaching the end of its natural life? Back in the days of my slightly lighter SWR750X I upgraded the stock GT12AX7 valve to an EH5751on the advice of a Basschat user who published a really in depth comparison of preamp valves on here (sorry I cant remember who it was ). The change on that occasion gave me a bit more mid-dirt (which I liked). Do you think its worth doing the same thing with the SM1500 or should I just replace like-for-like? Help, advice and guidance will be greatly received

As some on here will know, I own what is probably the heaviest amp known to man but despite my advancing years and failing back, I cannot find anything lighter that provides the sheer depth of this thing - my beloved SWR SM1500. However, on the last couple of gigs, I've noticed that the mid range seems to ebb and flow over the course of the gig. To explain, I start off with a nice bit of mid grind in the tone and at certain times this seems, to me at least, to disappear to be replaced by a lot more bottom end. I've emailed SWR's helpful customer services (3 times, no reply) so I'm putting it out to you guys for your help and guidance. Could this be a sign that the pre amp valve is reaching the end of its natural life? Back in the days of my slightly lighter SWR750X I upgraded the stock GT12AX7 valve to an EH5751on the advice of a Basschat user who published a really in depth comparison of preamp valves on here (sorry I cant remember who it was ). The change on that occasion gave me a bit more mid-dirt (which I liked). Do you think its worth doing the same thing with the SM1500 or should I just replace like-for-like? Help, advice and guidance will be greatly received

I had the 80w combo version (1x15). British made, well built and very reliable if a little underpowered. Sold many moons ago to finance a Carlsbro Stingray Probass 300

For the "coffee shop" gigs you describe, you'll not do better than a PJB Briefcase IMHO

Why not commission the boys at Overwater? They've done plenty of five string precisions before and if the 'B' strings are anything like the one on my Overwater Jazz then it'll be nice and tight and 'instant'. Equally, I believe Mr Shuker does a very nice 5 string precision (I recall OldHorseMurphy commissioned a stunning blueburst one that then passed on to OBBM) although the leadtimes might be an issue with Mr S.

Hello fellow Basschatter's. Well after owning a Stagg EUB for a couple of years and becoming more and more seduced by the 'dark side' I'm thinking its time to upgrade. Obvious choices are either a second hand NS EUB (advantages - storage, transportability) or a low end upright. Budget will be second hand NS money. What is the collective Basschat wisdom on options?

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1358021048' post='1932071'] Ah right, thanks very much! i'm happy with 220 watts, i have no big plans for it really, just using around the house, lessons maybe, a few recordings, no big gigs or anything. [/quote] Then it'll be perfect. These are fairly rare over here and as Walbassist says, fairly heavy. The four eight inch speakers give a really tight defined bass tone (a bit like PJB gear) and if you do want to gig it, you can always slap an 8 ohm 1x15 or similar under it for a bit more power. The aural enhancer is just a excellent bit of kit present on most, if not all, SWR amps. in most instances I find you just need a quick twiddle on this to find 'your tone' and then tweak it using the main tone stack. If the price is right, I'd go for it.

There's one for sale local to me on Facebook [url="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151073998716891&set=o.157319877702238&type=1&theater"]https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151073998716891&set=o.157319877702238&type=1&theater[/url]

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1355856725' post='1903791'] Just out of interest, is it a fairly easy job to fit the two volumes on one stack and the tone control(s) on the other? I only ask as on occasion I need to fade the volumes (either at the end of a song or as a volume pedal style 'swell' effect) and I dislike basses with two volumes on separate pots (I'm used to a master volume and pan). [/quote] Good question: must confess I hadn't thought of wiring them like that but I'd imagine that as a stack knob pot is just two pots stacked on top of each other then i'd guess it would be possible. KiOgon is the man to ask really.

[quote name='rubis' timestamp='1355855988' post='1903774'] Lovely job, just lovely. For my next project I was intending to do a PJ and was thinking of stack knobs, how do you get on with them? [/quote] Really pleased I went with this option. The tonal variations you can get between the two pickups is just what I was hoping for, Fender obviously knew what they were doing with the old stack knob jazzes and I really cant understand why they don't still do it today based on my experience of this project.