JPJ

Lovely bit of guerrilla engineering Sir, I love to see this type of thing and that looks a lovely instrument too.

Ah! That explains why a pickup ring wouldn't work :-)

Tricky! Scratch plate plastic will bend with heat. What I would do is make the scratch plate to the shape I wanted, heat this in the oven until it is 'floppy' and then lay this on the subject bass in the correct alignment. Problems are the hot plastic can damage the finish on the bass or worse still stick to it, so I'd probably put a sheet of paper between the bass and scratch plate to minimise any direct heat transfer. Once the plastic cools, it should retain the shape of the bass at least close enough that the screws will close up any gaps. You might have to file and fettle the pickup openings and neck pocket openings in the scratch plate as once bent, these will be slightly smaller than when you first cut them. By way of an alternative, you could just make pickup rings to cover the gaps around your new pickups. Yamaha used to do this on the BB series basses that had chrome rings around the pickups. Looked pretty cool to me Good luck if you decide to do this, and let us know how you get on!

As KiOgon says, drilling can be problematic especially if your doing it with a hand drill rather than a drill press. If this is the only method available to you, then I'd recommend going in small increments i.e. if you need to open the hole out 2mm, do it in 1/2mm steps as this will minimise the chance of the drill biting and tearing the surface of the wood. Another alternative is to drill from the back side having first clamped a bit of sacrificial wood to the front of the body. This will again minimise chip out but I'd still go in small steps. The advantage of this approach is that with some careful marking out, you can use a wood drill bit with a centre point. As to allowing a general purpose taper bit drill bit to self-centre in the hole, this will only work with the drill running, and its pretty hard to keep everything still (body, drill, arms etc) as the drill makes its initial contact. I'd only use this method with a drill press.

[quote name='Kevin Dean' timestamp='1415091290' post='2596469'] The Fearless stuff is also heavier I've noticed . & I can't help thinking there must be a reason why Barefaced have stopped using a 6" speaker in some formats . [/quote] Weight isn't necessarily everything though. My biggest concern with the lightweight cabs such as Barefaced is there structural integrity and road survival ability. Having been involved in shipping one (not mine I might add) in its original packaging, Parcelfarce managed to destroy the cab completely by dropping the carton on its corner. Seeing what my trusty Goliath Snr has to put up with on the road I'm concerned that a Barefaced cab would be toast by now.

As I'm now a fully confirmed Apple fanboy I've been looking for an alternative to WINISD for a while and stumbled on this whilst looking for something else - Faber Acoustical SpeakerDraft It's an app available from the AppStore to run on iPhone and iPad. The screenshots suggest it's very similar to WINISD but before I hit the buy button I thought I'd check to see whether there were any users on here and what they thought of it?

Check out Rothko and Frost www.rothkoandfrost.co.uk They do fiesta red in both cellulose and nitro-cellulose at about £14 for a 400ml aerosol. The secret with any paint job is the preparation and using the right colour primer sealer. There is some really helpful 'how to' info on Rothko's site too.

If your on Facebook, search out TrickyAudio [url="https://www.facebook.com/trickyaudio?fref=ts"]https://www.facebook.com/trickyaudio?fref=ts[/url] Guy is the UK registered builder for the Greenboy US Fearless range :-)

Hmm I'd check the specs. The original Triads were a 15", a 10" and a horn with the crossover points fixed at 100Hz and 5kHz. If its really a 15, a 12 & and an 8 then someones been messing about with what SWR intended. If its stock and fully working then its more than a bargain and I'd grab it with both hands.

I used to use two 4x10's because my amp head 'prefers' a 4 ohm load. As has already been said the volume control does exactly that! I used to get told to turn down by our regular sound guy as his eyes told him I must have been loud. During one sound check I turned the volume on bass off and played along, he still asked me to turn down until I explained that I was off and what he was hearing was the 100w Marshall 4x12 equipped guitard stood next to me. Now I use a 6x10 cab and it ticks all the boxes i.e. 4 ohm load, single cab, loud enough for the biggest stages, looks 'right' against two 4x12 equipped guitards.

I had a candy apple red one with the gold hardware. Was a lovely bass and covered the active sound perfectly (could sound like flea's modulus with a bit of careful eq'ing). I loved the neck but found it to be a little to 'flexible' for my tastes, requiring frequent setups to keep the action where I liked it. Great bass all the same and your shoulder will love you for buying it.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1414252151' post='2587547'] If you got time to look down at the meters, you weren't going fast enough! [/quote] Oh I normally was, just not in the same direction as my bike :-)

Yep, speakon's come in two flavours: 2 gang and 4 gang. 'Standard' speakon cables are 2 gang wired +1/+1 -1/-1 but there are variants for bridging power amps and the like. Worth checking that both ends of the speakon lead are wired the same way. Oh and if its a GK amp and a GK cable, its probably a four gang wired differently for their bi-amping setup.

Do what we used to do to 2-stroke racing motorcycles, block off the Rev counter either side of the power band. As long as you could see the needle, everything was fine :-)

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1410360653' post='2548548'] So last night I finally got around to dealing with the tight bridge. I sanded off all the horrible black coating which revealed that the bridge itself is a rather rough and ready affair with lots of high and low spots covered in that thick black goo of a paint. I also noticed that the screw posts are only set into the bass of the bridge by about 1/4" and that mine are starting to 'break' out the wood at the top of the holes due to string pressure. Anyway, after reassembly and re-tuning, I didn't notice any improvement in the bass side response, with the E string in particular still sounding a little weedy by comparison to the D & G. So today I've done a little further investigation and by a process of elimination, I've managed to confirm that the bass side transducer is producing no output. To prove this, I swapped the transducer wires on the preamp board in various combinations which showed that both 'sides' of the preamp board are functioning correctly, but that the bass side transducer is kaput. I've fired an email off to my local Stagg dealer but in the meantime, does anyone know whether replacement transducers are available from Stagg? [/quote] Has anybody got a direct contact for Stagg please? My emails to my local Stagg dealer regarding the dead piezo are falling on deaf ears. Also, does anybody know of an alternative to the standard Stagg piezo wires?

The 21012 is indeed a great cab capable of filling even a large room with bass. I miss mine and on reflection should have kept it and got rid of the Golly instead (strong words indeed from an SWR fan boi). Happy new old cab day

[quote name='Merton' timestamp='1410934336' post='2554719'] Very impressed with your patience on this! It's going to look great to boot [/quote] Cheers for your kind words. I'm actually enjoying the gestation period, slowing down allows you to think through every step thoroughly which hopefully results in fewer mistakes

I must have been lucky then, because I've used my local B&Q to cut sheet timber down a few times now and found their cuts to be true and square and easily as good as I can manage with a sled like the one Bill mentions.

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1410608594' post='2551214'] Class... love 'Out Of the Wilderness'. Was there many in? [/quote] Yeah quite a good turnout for a Thursday night, I'd say about 3/4 full?

[quote name='Ramirez' timestamp='1410602745' post='2551124'] Cool. Is that the Cluny 2 (the tiny venue) or the main one? Played the small one on tour back in April, great place. And awesome hot dogs. [/quote] No this was the moderately larger Cluny 1

It could have been either graffiti yellow or TV yellow as I think both of those were available to order

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1410455111' post='2549649'] Here's more pics. I swear these things are works of art. The build quality is ridiculously good. [/quote] Build quality is ridiculously good eh? Phah those screw heads aren't even lined up #OCD

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1410456509' post='2549681'] Aha... I just sussed who the dep is with! You'll need a lie down after the first 3 songs mate and you're ear plugs better be industry strength! [/quote] Oh no, is he 'crashing tonight?

[quote name='Magic Matt' timestamp='1410539620' post='2550590'] I can't afford to buy a router and a table saw... how would I radius the edges without a router!? Everything is going to be done with hand tools, bar some stuff with a cordless jigsaw and a cordless drill/driver. Will there really be no reinforcement needed if being assembled by a slightly cack-handed monkey? [/quote] Lots of places like B&Q offer a panel cutting service (first x cuts free etc) which can make buying from them a lot more cost effective. Turn up with the cutting list from Bill's plans and they'll cut your sheet down into the required pieces that will be square cut with square edges. This should make assembly a lot simpler and result in nice tight joints. As for radius'ing the edges, you can do it using a batten, your jigsaw and some sandpaper. Use the jigsaw on the angle (most have adjustable bed plates) to chew off the meat of the corner (say 60 degrees from each side) then smooth the radius with a sanding block and sandpaper. Use a baton either clamped or screwed to the cabinet to keep the jigsaw running in a straight parallel line with the edge you are trimming.