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  1. Sterlings are underrated basses IMO. They are of equal quality and constuction when compared to StingRay basses. The Sterling by MusicMan brand doesn't help, people can mistake these basses for an affordable Asian product. I bought mine for its slimmer neck profile and smaller and thus lighter body. Does it really sound all that different from a StingRay? Dunno, never played a StingRay... Sterlings do have that unmistakeable MusicMan tone, no doubt about it. Alone in your bedroom one might hear differences. Playing live I think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference. Pics or it didn't happen, here's mine.
  2. I wonder how long it's gonna take for the "new" MarkBass Mark King 8x10" signature combo to be released. 🤨
  3. Must be an older item, check the URL: www.ebs.bass.se Their current URL is: ebssweden.com Prototype perhaps? Why not ask EBS support?
  4. The Sterling has a narrow, Jazz-like neck. The StingRay can also have a neck like that, these are called "StingRay SloSpecial" (these are rare, as they were made by special order only). Normal StingRays have a wider P-bass like neck. The Sterling has a small-ish body, much smaller than a Jazz bass. Hence these tend to be lighter than the average StingRay which can be on the heavy side. If you want "that MM sound" go StingRay. For "that MM sound on steroids" go Sterling. Do not confuse the Sterling with the more affordable Asian made Sterling by MusicMan range of basses and guitars.
  5. Here you go: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!search/ken$20sadowsky$20bridge$20fundamental/alt.guitar.bass/wVRC_ZiYcj4/E45uRR7AdioJ I remember having read something about cheesy bass bridges. Don't take my word for it but I believe a bridge can make a difference. Even Roger Sadowsky switched from the Schaller 3D bridge to another design because it sounded better (to his ears I assume). The guys at Sadowsky know a thing or two about basses.
  6. Always wanted one of those with the nice wood cabinets. Couldn't afford one back then, now hardly ever one turns up for sale.
  7. Bo Hansen's DI perhaps. It's a DIY DI-box with a choice of three transformers. Can be made on a tight budget or you could really push the boat out and go for a top quality Lundahl transformer. Info here: https://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=36569.0
  8. Treb

    East Pre-Amps

    I haven't tried the one you mention but can vouch for the quality of my DJ-Retro preamp, also a John East preamp. If it's anything like that, I'm sure it is, you're in for a treat. John East knows a thing or two (or three) about designing a great bass preamp. Not cheap but quality rarely is... Good luck deciding!
  9. Thank for clarifying the Mk1/Mk2 differences. Not a fan of the pointy Mk1 Cruise. That LPB one above, would love to own one of those. Either one like that or a CAR one.
  10. What's the difference between the different cruise basses? The 2Tek bridge?
  11. The idea of a Cutlass 1 with a smaller body sounds appealing...
  12. BTW it will not sound like a Stingray as you know it. The preamp is an important factor too.
  13. And for a no holds barred sound in a sleek package choose the Sterling bass.
  14. Replace if the mirror silver top inside the tube shows discoloration or turns milky white (vacuum compromised). it produces high pitched ringing sounds when tapped (gone microphonic). it has been used 10,000+ hours (end of life)
  15. Yup. Two (preferably identical) 8 ohm cabs or a single 4 ohm cab. Those are your options. Hook up two 4 ohm cabs and now the resulting load will drop to 2 ohm. Your amp wasn't designed to run at 2 ohm. It will either refuse to work or it will work for some time and then perform a thermal shut down or do a melt down.
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