JPJ

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1388266660' post='2320288'] Your right, it's daft. You won't have equal power distribution to all the drivers. With six 8 ohm drivers you can wire them as series pairs for three sets at 16 ohms, parallel wire those sets for a 5.3 ohm total, which most amps will have no issue with. [/quote] Thanks Bill, too much time/sherry over the Christmas period always has me trying to solve problems that don't exist

I recently acquired an SWR Goliath Senior 6x10 cab with the intention of using this as a single cab solution for most of my gigs. Now this cab is pretty perfect save for the weight and this has got me thinking. A while back, I had two drivers go in a Goliath II 4x10 so I replaced all four with Eminence Deltalite II's giving a nominal 1000w of handling at 8 ohms. The big advantage of the change was the weight saving which is quite dramatic when compared to my other Goliath III. So I started to think about replacing the speakers in the Senior with neo-based alternatives and ran into a bit of a problem in that I can't find any manufacturer who offer a 6 ohm version (needed to wire for nominal 4 ohm total load). So, engaging a bit of lateral thinking, would having four Deltalite 8ohm 250w speakers wired series/parallel for a total of 8 ohms/1000w nominal, in parallel with a pair of say Deltalite LF 16ohm 500w wired in series (total 8ohms 1000w) work? My schoolboy physics/maths says that'll give a combined 4ohm 2000w, am I right? It's probably just a mad idea, but I'd like to have a plan in case one of the stock PAS drivers gives up the ghost in the Senior as with what's happening at SWR at the moment, I'm unlikely to be able to source direct replacements.

When Mrs JPJ suggested I should build a bass as a Christmas gift for our daughters long-term boyfriend it seemed like the ideal opportunity to contribute to the festive present purloining whilst doing something I enjoy down the [s]shed[/s] workshop. Little did I know that the day job was going to become quite so time demanding in the run up to Christmas resulting in said gift bass being completed at 1:30am on Christmas day! For obvious reasons I couldn't post the in-build progress shots anywhere for fear the intended internet-savvy recipient might become aware of the plan, so as the title says, this is more of a finished product rather than a build thread but as I'm rather pleased with the outcome I thought I would share it anyway. The body blank and neck were purchased from our very own Jabba_the_gut who had roughed out the profile of the P bass and pre-drilled for the bridge, neck, scratch plate and earth wire. All that was left to do was to form the forearm chamfer and gut cutout and round over the edges. Finishing-wise, I used Rothko and Frost grain filler, white nitro-cellulose primer (8 coats) and Graffiti Yellow nitro-cellulose top coat (8 coats). Flatted out by wet sanding to 2000 grit and then cut with Autoglym paint restorer before a final hand polish with Autoglym high gloss polish. The neck was finished using a nicotine tint nitro-cellulose lacquer from ToneTech. All the black hardware came from CH Guitars in South Shields [url="http://chguitars.co.uk"]http://chguitars.co.uk[/url]. Finally, the strings are a set of Optima Gold's that I've had in the gig box as spares for quite a while and the gold seemed an appropriate match to the yellow body. The headstock was finished in the same colour and a logo applied consisting of the recipients signature (surreptitiously obtained) and the words "Custom Bass" in Fender TV type font. The logo was made using some of that inkjet waterslide transfer paper you can buy from Amazon which I am pleased to report worked perfectly, the plus side being I can now manufacture many more logos in future So enough waffle, here are a few photos taken just before delivery. [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/DSCN0463_zps89a0d8c3.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/DSCN0462_zps49dc9b2c.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/DSCN0464_zps866930f8.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/DSCN0465_zps88e091ce.jpg.html"][/url]

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1385296837' post='2286484'] +1 for Roqsolid. Brilliant. [/quote] +1 from me too. Got them to make up a cover for my Goliath Snr 6x10, really good quality cover - delivery time was a little longer than I was expecting but as this was the first Goliath Snr they'd done, I'll let them off with that! :-)

I've built a few, some more successful than others. Obey the basic laws of physics and you can get a really nice cab for not very much money with a much better driver than anything stock. Interestingly, you can disobey the basic laws of physics and still get a cab that works well, just ask Jorge Schroeder :-)

To get the best from bi-amping, you really need cabinets designed for the two different frequency groups. Simple 2x10 1x15 commercial cabs won't cut it imho. I experimented with bi-amping and concluded that the added gear and complexity wasn't worth it for the almost indistinguishable improvement in 'tone'. That said, our PA is bi-amped, using dedicated sub's and mid/tops (not the best by far, but good enough) and with a bit of careful eq'ing on the desk, I can get a massive punchy bass sound FOH that sits nicely in the mix, leaving my back line as a personal monitor. But for the majority of our gigs, even this is overkill as the back line is more than sufficient for FOH duties in the Dog & Sproat and other such venues that I don't bother putting my bass or the guitards through the PA.

Hi Geoff, Sorry to be late to the thread but had to comment after watching the first lesson. After years (lots of years ) on the electric, I'm dabbling in the world of double using a Stagg EUB as a low cost introduction. I have gigged with it a couple of times but really struggled with left hand pain. No wonder when I watched your first video on left hand technique! Collapsed knuckles and a bear-like grip of the neck was my stock hand position . Half an hour practicing the correct technique and no hand pain. Thank you for sharing your experiences and techniques - you might make a double bassist out of me yet

Bought a Warwick 4U flight case off Andy, fast (3 day) transaction, no problems here, a veritable gentleman and a credit to the forum.

Been using my Line 6 G50 for over three years. No issues whatsoever, receiver sits on top of my amp, transmitter has been dropped a couple of times and although beginning to look a little 'battle scarred' it still functions perfectly. I have wandered far from the stage on a few occasions (outside bike rally gigs) and have yet to reach the limit of transmission. The cabe length simulator (I thought this was a gimmick) actually works and makes a difference. Only gripe is a minor one, some 'cheap' petrol station AA's don't fit in the transmitter. Other than that its a solid and reliable bit of kit that I use at every gig irrespective of the size of the stage, in fact its almost more useful on small stages as your not permanently standing on your lead. Buy with confidence - these things rock!

The only guy I would trust to refinish an expensive instrument is this guy [url="http://www.dwilsonguitars.com"]http://www.dwilsonguitars.com[/url] He's local'ish to me and there is a lot of members on here who will vouch for the quality of his workmanship.

There was a trend towards bi-amp and even tri-amp rigs in the early eighties, my old Carlsbro Stingray Probass was bi-amp capable, albeit with a separate slave amp to drive either the top or bottom end, depending which way you wanted to configure it. Trace Elliot did a similar rig that could be tri-amped by including there (in)famous powered 4x5 bright box. In fact, thinking back, this is probably where the 4x10 + 1x15 setup came from. A well set-up bi-amp rig can deliver that 'full range' clarity that you describe here. However a badly setup bi-amp rig is like a badly setup PA system - it can sound atrocious especially if the balance between top & bottom end is wrong. I can also run my current amp as either stereo, or bi-amp (or bridged mono) but I tend to just run it bridged mono as I've come to realise that I actually 'like' the sound of my standard 'off the shelf' speaker cabs and that the 'colouration' that Barefaced and others seek to avoid is, to my ears anyway, quite desirable.

Nik, has just purchased my Schroeder cab. Excellent comms throughout, great guy to deal with, I can't recommend him highly enough. A credit to the forum, deal/trade/buy/sell with Nik without hesitation.

Surely it really depends on what you are trying to achieve? For example, our little (loud) pub rock 5 piece use two 15" subs and two 15"+horn tops for vocals and drums. Backline takes care of itself. I think we get a decent enough sound (I should, I do the mix) and having a separate outboard crossover helps me tailor the rig to the room. In truth, I'd like a bit more top/upper mid but budget dictates that we use what we've got. PA gear has advanced significantly in the last few years. Yes, at one time I would have insisted on a pair of 18" bins (2x18" if I could get away with it) but modern powered 15" bins will give you plenty of 'thump' in most scenarios. If your playing massive clubs every week then yes probably still 18" is the way to go, but down the dog and sproat its overkill. My own belief is that as the digital mixers become more feature rich and cheaper, more bands will be dumping the racks of outboard they currently use and doing it all in the desk, meaning that they can afford to go back to passive PA cabs and a small rack of lightweight Class D type power amps. A rig like Alex is suggesting will with an all-in-one box cabinet per side become a possibility in terms of portability and will probably do away with the need for separate bins and mid/tops. If you've ever used Mackies 1532's you'll know what I mean when I say you can still get a great FOH rock sound without the need to carry separate bass bins. If your buying today with a budget of between £3k - £5k then you'll be spoilt for choice. My preference would be for some of the powered RCF kit but that is because I'm looking at a particular application.

Well you lot have finally gotten to me and I've relented and downsized from my two Golly 4x10's (other luddites fear not, I'm keeping them for the bigger gigs) but this is the new lightweight portable single cab rig [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_0864_zps17e5864c.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_0864_zps17e5864c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Well there are some esteemed 'experts' on this here board with both Alex Claber of barefaced and Bill Fitzmaurice posting regularly. If your a PC user you can download WinISD for free and play around with different speakers, cabinet volumes, port sizes etc to your hearts content. It isn't difficult but remember that the cabinet volume refers to the internal volume of the cab calculated using the internal dimensions and not the external dimensions, so you need to make allowance for the material you are going to use, your chosen bracing and anything else that will protrude inside the cabinet (handles, crossovers, hf horns, wheels etc. I've 'designed' and built a few cabinets using WinISD and obtained very favourable results. I know the programme only simulates the performance of a given speaker in a given cabinet volume and doesn't consider speaker alignment, acoustic coupling etc etc but it really depends what you are trying to achieve. Both Alex and Bill produce 'neutral' cabinets that come as a bit of an aural surprise after using stock manufacturer branded boxes. But its horses for courses in that department. Its a bit like the lightweight versus old school debate - use your ears and choose what produces your sound and fits your budget.

Here's a shot of my 'new' small rig [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_0864_zps17e5864c.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_0864_zps17e5864c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I'd play around with the limiter as the control is sort of counter intuitive being fully on when most other knobs would be off. Failing that, contact Phil Jones support as they are probably the quickest and most helpful support team I've ever come across (other manufacturers take note!).