brensabre79

I really don't understand all the passionate hatred being spread on here. Forgetting for a moment that it is directed at a fellow BassChatter. We are all entitled to our opinions of what is good/bad gear. We are not entitled to ram it down everybody's throats on what seems to be an almost daily basis. Hey, I tried some stuff out when I was looking for a cab a couple of years ago, and there was stuff I didn't like, stuff I thought was overpriced tut, and stuff that was just plain bad. If anyone asks for a recommendation I'll be happy to make a suggestion. What I will not do is ridicule, exaggerate and prattle on like I've got some kind of hidden agenda over and over again. None of this is helping the OP in this case, and every other thread I read where the B word is mentioned. For the record, I've had 5 niggles with my 63 reg BMW since I purchased it (September 1st), blowing exhaust, broken xenon light and 3 separate rattles. Each time I went back to dealer who apologised and fixed it. I have had two niggles with my Super12 in 2 years - handle worn, still functions but looks tatty, I asked Alex who said he'd replace them with new ones (at cost). The other thing is the rubber foot, which I carelessly bashed on a step - Again Alex was more than happy to fix it. I have had both of these issues with many other cabs. Both companies were apologetic, responsive and offered a solution. I also had a Rickenbacker once.

I do this, both Jazz basses, one fretted one fretless. 1. Same straplocks on both basses (the Fender ones work best for me) 2. A/B pedal, both basses plugged in to it. the one I have has a 'mute all' switch and an A/B switch with LEDs (just to avoid panic setting in) 3. two (or one double) stands MUTE Unclip bass 1 (leave strap on shoulder - trust me it's quicker), place on empty stand, pick up bass 2 and clip on (A/B flip), You're ready to go. Usually I can change-over while the audience finishes clapping just in time for singer to announce next song. On a good day I can sneak in a quick sip of water (or whatever you like) too.

Contact Eminence, they are usually pretty helpful. They might be able to point you in the right direction for a replacement, or even supply OEM. It's a risky business sticking any old 15" driver in there.

I just had to swallow a bit of my own vomit to protect my screen.

I'm highly suspicious of this. Have you seen the sellers other items? Pretty much parting out the bass minus the neck for far less than it would be worth whole. 99p start on everything! Oh and a '74 Precision for under £500 to boot...

eBay

I would do it the other way around. Get the neck, put it together, see if it's a keeper, if not, sell the body and the neck (you won't lose much on a MM or All parts neck if you buy S/H off the bay...

You could try looking for a secondhand multi-fx unit, like a Zoom B3 or B2 depending on your budget. They have lots of different pedals built in so you can try many things, plus if you cover something else in the future and need chorus, wah, delay or whatever you can get a close approximation.

I had skid rails on my skateboard once. Maybe a skate shop would have something..? Alternatively... [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/do-yourself-skid-rails-369210/"]DIY[/url] Apologies for the location of the link

OK, thanks for all the info I now have the schematic for the power amp. I'm guessing 3 matched pairs will suffice. I was told that this is a non-adjustable fixed bias amp and as such, without modifying to add a bias adjustment swapping the 6L6s for another will not be possible.

I'll echo that to say as I understand the Bias does need to be adjusted for different valve types on this amp. I feared that i would need a matched sextet of replacement 6L6s. I suppose they will never be running at their full potential without being able to adjust the bias, but that tends to shorten the life of tubes anyway.

Thanks, I have the owners manual, all I could get from Peavey. But no mention of changing valves or bias though. there is a hum balance trim control on the back of the amp, thats about it. Apparently some people have added a global bias adjustment mod to theirs, but mine has not got this. What I really need to know first off though is can I just swap the valves with mismatched ones or do I need 6 matched valves or 3 pairs of matched valves or something?

So I managed to bag myself a rack-mounted all valve amp quite cheaply on eBay for my experimentations. It's been serviced recently and seems to be in good condition too. Which is nice. But I am fully aware I'm going to have to get some new valves in this old thing (Peavey AlphaBass). It's got the stock ones in, which I believe are from 1989. The thing is, it is a fixed bias amp. Now I'm aware some Mesa amps are fixed bias and that you can buy valve sets specifically selected for those amps, but my question is... [list] [*]Do I have to get a specific set of 6L6 valve to replace what is there? I've heard of matched pairs (this has Six 6L6 in the power stage) Will I be OK getting 3 separate matched pairs or do I need to get 6 matched valves? [/list] Also, as I'm never one to simply buy something off the shelf and use it as intended... I wondered whether it would be easy to change to KT66 or even KT88 valves without a bias control? Normally I think this is an acceptable upgrade when you can adjust the bias, but with a fixed bias I'm not sure it would even be possible... Any (relevant) thoughts welcome

Is it a Shuttle? I had a Shuttle 6.0 with this problem, although the hiss was the same volume regardless of the controls. Replacing the valve (or even just re-seating the existing one) should fix it. Assuming it's the same or similar fault to the one I had of course (I had two Shuttles with this problem before I gave up with them and bought a Carvin for half the money).

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1385997580' post='2294436'] After many recording nightmares with various bands I recommend the following. 1. Only record 1 or 2 of your best tracks 2. Record and mix them to perfection 3. Pay the recording studio 4. If you're happy with the results record another 1 or 2 tracks and repeat the process until you have your album This way you can concentrate on getting the songs recorded and mixed as you want them to be, without compromising, and you don't have the worry that you'll run out of money before the final mix is done. [/quote] Not always economical that way though. Live drums take ages to set-up and record, if you do one or two tracks at a time you're paying for that set-up time over and over. The thing i always say to bands is book a practice room, get amazingly good at playing the songs, then come to the studio prepared for one or two takes. If you're on a budget, getting the tracks down live then overdubbing bits is the way to go. Set up takes longer but at least you get everything down. You can then get rough mixes of everything and take them away. Decide which ones you want to add overdubs to or mix down and just go and do those. When you have a bit more cash you can go back to the others. Writing in the studio is a decadance that few can afford these days.

It's the same principle as a blend on a J, it's just the centre detent is redundant as you'll get a better balance further round (isn't that the point of a blend knob anyway?) You could put a pre-set resistor on the P pickup, just to attenuate it slightly to balance the output if you like the centre detent to be 50/50. - same if you're using a switch.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1385745297' post='2291815'] I'm more than happy with the power available, i'm never going to use it flat out, but i do like the extra headroom. [/quote] I think you might find that if you run the amp in bridged mode at half power, you'll have the same or less headroom as running one channel on full power. But the attenuator on the power amp is going to affect the sound in some way too. IMO power amps shouldn't even have a volume control, the Preamp should take care of the level being sent to the power amp. If you're having to turn EVERYTHING down to run the power amp at 0dB, then the power amp is too loud. Plus, 1Kw into a Barefaced S12??? Are you trying to cause an earthquake? I played a 300 capacity dance hall last night, with a rock band, no PA support, with a 500w amp into my Barefaced S12. The master volume was on 3, and believe me I wasn't sitting under the mix! All that said, if you really want to run bridged mode I can't see why this amp would work differently to any other. I'd check with the manufacturer / manual to be sure, but it should be ok to attenuate the input of the power amp - as said though, you won't be getting the full 1kW out of the amp if you do this. Alternatively, if your bass is too hot for the pre-amp you could attenuate at this stage to let the preamp have some headroom (where you really need it) a simple pedal can do this - like an EH Signal Pad...

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1385755868' post='2291971'] But if the bridge is in the wrong place there's no way a tech can fix that without filling the existing holes and drilling new ones. Sounds to me like you'd do best to use the sawn-off bolt-thread saddles. [/quote] Did you read any of the posts above???

I broke mine, had to get a new one from[url="http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/"] here[/url] couldn't find a UK one, but they were pretty quick. (like a week) Assuming it's the push button rather than the pull up.

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261258092633"]UK one on eBay right now - but it's the whole bridge[/url]

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1385736526' post='2291688'] Is it possible that I could get hold of just a new set of vintage saddles to use with my existing bridge? does anywhere sell these you guys know of? [/quote] +1 for the saddles. It's pretty common with Fenders from any era, which is why they made the bridges like that. A lot of complicated suggestions on here. I would just get the replacement threaded saddles off eBay, you can keep the rest of the bridge. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261258092633"]Here's[/url] one in the UK:

I can't help but think you're missing something there... Why not just use one side, un-bridged? You've clearly got an over-powered rig there

Every 2 - 3 weeks until I started using Elixir! Well, for roundwounds anyway. If you want a dead sound, I'd go for flatwounds every time. Although the ones on my fretless have gone rusty - still sound lovely though after 3 years

I guess it comes down to budget vs what is available vs what you actually want. Plus, if you actually can do it, it's fun and educational. I bought a P body on ebay recently, it was only £30. I had the other bits lying around except for the scratchplate so I built a P Bass with a Squier Jazz neck. It's nice. I've modded the electronics on all my basses - including the '79 Sabre (that out of phase switch was perfectly useless). If I had the money I would get a custom made bass to my own spec, but I haven't so I tinker with Fender parts until I'm happy. My main gigging Jazz bass took 3 years, 3 bodies, 2 necks, 8 tuners, 2 preamps and 6 pickups until i stopped messing with it. I'd like a slightly slimmer neck though...

I've never understood this. You buy a classic car and expect it to have been maintained in good working order, tyres, brake pads and worn out parts will have been replaced along the way to keep the thing running.