brensabre79

A photo would help, assuming you mean the two wires coming from the pickup, the swapping of the wires may be because both pickups have been wound the same way. If I recall rightly, originally the Bridge pickup winds the opposite way to the neck. Its pretty easy to tell if it's right or not because they will either be in phase or out of phase. If you turn up both volume controls and you find you lose lots of lower frequencies then the pickups are out of phase and you can swap the two wires. If you turn both volumes up and you just lose a little mid-range, then then it's wired in phase - but because of the re-wind it might be that the poles are not earthed. I'm not sure if you can just screen them - some use a strip of copper tape on the bottom of the pickup, touching the underside of the poles, then connect that to earth - however, because of the way they are wound it may cancel out the whole thing and render your pickup very quiet. I'm no expert on this by any stretch though so don't take this as an informed opinion! An alternative might be to get a cover that does not have holes to expose the pole piecs. Or get the pickup re-wound the right way - if indeed that is the problem...

It is clearly aimed at "smaller people who want awesome sustain and power" However, at that price I can buy four Gretsch Electromatic G2220 Junior Jet II's which are also suitable for smaller people who want awesome sustain and power at an affordable price.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1396645374' post='2416116'] The same bass is for sale under the same user name, [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/233459-three-basses-for-sale-2-fender-jazz-1-ibanez/"]right here[/url] on Basschat, so we are talking about a fellow member here. Just sayin'. [/quote] Yes, but a fellow member with no posts other than the one selling the bass in question... I don't think anyone should take offence at a fairly unanimous opinion that it's over-priced whether its on eBay or here to be honest. It might just be an innocent mistake, which can easily be rectified. Although my dad always told me that something is ultimately worth whatever someone is prepared to pay for it.

This isn't the amp you're looking for... Seriously. You have got the sound you want right? - many aren't nearly so far along this quest. Best of all, it fits in a bag, doesn't require a 2 man road crew and large vehicle to move around! SO even if you are using another amp, you get the sound! If it's good enough for Geddy...

[quote name='Ratae Corieltauvorum' timestamp='1396560865' post='2415227'] Bren do I take it that the one you put up there with the plain pot added is the actual one to rewire a 4003 to standard to get a properly functioning push/pull modern v vintage tone circuit. I've just bought a 4003 that someone's hacked, and I want it back to stock. I like the option of the vintage 4001ish tone and the modern thumpier tone [/quote] Yes I believe thats the mod to get the vintage tone on a push/pull (although I didn't bother with it personally).

Yes they will more than likely re-record, so that they own the recording. They will possibly make the performers waive certain mechanical rights as part of the deal too. If they don't, you'll have rights to the performance as well as mechanical rights.

+1 just tighten it a bit. If it's rattling loose it's not doing anything, so a little bit of tension, just enough to stop rattle, will not do much either. My Telecaster did this when I put lighter strings on.

+1 contact Peavey UK, they are very helpful and accommodating. They even supplied a long obsolete part for my 1970s peavey amp last year! [b][u][url="http://www.peavey.com"]Peavey Electronics (UK) Ltd[/url][/u][/b] Great Folds Road Oakley Hay [url="http://1stdirectory.co.uk/Comp-Town/corby.htm"]Corby[/url] Northamptonshire NN18 9ET [b]Tel:[/b] [url="tel:01536461234"]01536 461234[/url] [b]Fax:[/b] 01536 747222 Changing speakers in any cab is a risky business and in my experience the best you can expect is that it won't be any worse. it's rare that you'll improve things. I've been recommended suitable replacements by blue Aran and Eminence in the past and while the drivers functioned ok, the sound was pretty far from OK to be honest.

[quote name='Hobbayne' timestamp='1396340729' post='2412362'] He,s getting married poor bugger [/quote] Only if he can sell this bass for £350 though...

[quote name='Subthumper' timestamp='1396288148' post='2411891'] If you turned up to play as a bassist or guitarist with as little idea of how your instrument and amp worked you'd be sacked from the band yet singers often seem to have the approach that it's someone else's job. [/quote] I've worked with quite a few guitarists who have no idea how to use their amp. The volume control seems to be a particularly difficult one to master.

Mic technique, mic technique and mic technique are the three things that will solve this issue! A hypercardiod mic will help a little. You [i]can[/i] use a graphic EQ to cut out some of the feedback you get from turning the mic up. [b]But[/b] it will also mean everything the mic is picking up will be louder. Gate + subtle compression [i]might[/i] help a little bit. [b]But[/b] again it could make things worse! My trick for getting the best out of a mic with a quiet singer is this (if you have a proper desk): • turn the channel gain down as low as you can, put the fader up to 0dB (no higher) • route the channel to every available group (we have 4), put the group faders at 0dB and no higher. • EQ out the nasty frequencies while turning up the gain slowly to get the level you require. If you crank the gain, or add a mic pre, you essentially widen the pickup field of the mic - meaning everything gets picked up. But most of all, tell your singer that her mic should be covered in lipstick by the end of the set. And tell her to SING UP! Its a rock song not a lullaby convention.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1396008716' post='2408927'] That's nice! [/quote] cheers

I have the S-1 mod on mine, on the volume control, with a 5 position switch for pickups (basically a blend with notches) and a stacked two band EMG pre. But I do find I prefer the Jazz sound on some tunes. The series sound can get a bit woolley. You lose some treble and gain some mids. I think it's always better to have options personally! Diagram here: As you can see, it doesn't change the appearance much: Having the pickups in series is a pretty close approximation to a P-Bass sound (as close as you'll get from a Jazz anyway).

Here's the diagram for the ric 0 sound http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/19507.pdf

I'm sure this has been posted before. I don't recall if anyone has tried. I seem to remember the general consensus being that they were not brilliant. I haven't tried them - I must be very lucky not to have any dead spots or wolf notes on my Fenders. Although that is the advantage of buying your bass from a place where you can try it out first i suppose!

Here's the one I used for my Rockinbetter - But I missed the switch mod bit, just copy the bass side for the treble side. To be honest I find the schematic easier to follow but I didn't find that at the time!

[url="https://bareknucklepickups.co.uk/main/pickups.php?cat=bass&sub=vintage&pickup=51_flat_pole&series=p_bass"]Bare knuckle[/url] do one, not sure how good that is, but their other pickups I've used have all been pretty good.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1395149437' post='2399175'] I guess we can train our ears to discern differences between various types of string, pickup, amp/combo but I wonder if the casual listener at a gig notices or even cares... [/quote] I doubt even the experienced listener will be able to tell the real thing from an emulator within the mix of a live band. The only person who will know is the player. For me, running an all-valve amp is more about the feel and response than it is about the tone. I actually prefer the tone I get from my Carvin car stereo amp than the all-valve lump I have, but I take the lump to gigs because it's so much more satisfying to play through.

I don't think this will work. Here's the thing. Whilst the thread IS the same, there is a black sleeve on the MIM which gets in the way: In this picture the original Truss Rod Nut is in the end of the neck, on the left is a MIA Nut, on the right a Stewmac Bullet Nut, neither will fit in the hole because of the black sheath in the truss rod end hole. You might be able to remove the sheath, but I do not know if this will impact how the truss rod works. It may be using the sheath / liner as an integral part of the tensioning for the rod and removing it may just mean your screwing the nut on to the end of a very large bolt without actualy applying any tension. Maybe someone on here knows more about that. personally I would leave it. EDIT: Also, apparently the rods on bullet style necks are slightly longer so the nut protrudes. So you may find that after removing the black sheath and possibly a bit more irreversible work that the bullet nut deos work, but it is hidden from view just like the regular one. Essentially it is just a regular one with rounded ends - as you can probably see in the pic.

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1394144365' post='2388519'] [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/rothkoandfrostuk?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754"]http://www.ebay.co.u...788.m1543.l2754[/url] I've used this seller a few times. Great service and quality product [/quote] +1 for R&F they are very good. Re: Inkjet paper. It's just not the same. You can't print metallic inks and you will not get the depth of colour or black from an inkjet printer.

geminipickups.co.uk

I think it has often been said on here, and other places in response to the following sort of question... I wanna sound like (insert artist). I bought his signature model bass, I got the same amp he is pictured with in Bass Nerd magazine, I'm even using the same strings. But it doesn't sound anything like him. What am I doing wrong?

Both input and output valves will break up. But you have to drive the output valves pretty hard to get them to do that. Having 40% less gain on the pre-amp will mean you have less gain to make the power amp valve break up - it's all related. The short answer about the volume drop is yes, the lower gain valves will not be so loud. If the amp is too hot (i.e. you have the pre-amp section turned right down to avoid distortion), then you'll benefit from the AT7 replacement. If you can control it fine with the AX7s then I wouldn't bother. There is a sweet spot in my opinion just before the break-up stage. This is where you'll get a bit of compression from the valves, go one louder and you'll hear distortion. if you can get the controls balanced well, you can get this sweet spot from both the preamp and power amp. But then you're pretty much stuck at that volume which isn't always practical. It's one reason why with valve amps you don't need so many watts, and that even if you did, you would not be getting the best results from it. Sure you can build a 1000W valve amp (if you have a roadie), but to get that sweet spot it would be so incredibly loud that it just wouldn't be useable.

I used to be convinced active was always louder and fatter sounding. I was wrong. These days I prefer the passive tone anyway, but it has the added bonus of never having flat batteries! I can leave it plugged in all year if I want to