brensabre79

I think they are all a bit of a lottery at the moment, like you say. Personally I would find the best stocked store near me and pick the one I liked the most. Although last time I did that I ended up with an Indonesian made Squier... I will say that American made ones seem to get better secondhand value.

He says they are replacements. I'm inclined to believe that is the case...

[quote name='smaz' timestamp='1383744844' post='2268427'] Reported too. Have US basses ever had the truss rod access headstock end? [/quote] Yes, but with bullet truss rod 70s models.

Well they can't win really. At this price lots of people will just walk away, myself included. At £1,200 they could well sell a lot more, so reduce the price by ordering more. I guess they have to work out the balance of supply and demand. Might just have to get a return flight with a prodigy shaped box as hand luggage

My American Standard Fretless Jazz is exactly the same as the day it was purchased. Not changed a thing. And I hardly ever play it. My '79 Sabre is how it was given to me except I had the pickups rewound and modified the switches. That goes out with me every couple of months. My 70s Jazz however is in fact a bitsa, it started out life as a Squier VM. I have replaced everything over time. First the pickups (Wizards), then the hardware (70s Gotoh tuners and Badass), then the body (1973) and finally the neck (1974). I could never have afforded this bass in one go and I don't believe in credit cards. So this was the only way I could get what is now my main bass, it's out with me 3-4 times a week. Currently starting on a new bitsa build using the VM neck (which is great by the way), a Precision body from eBay and all the other bits I have aquired along the way trying to get my Jazz just right. Plus some very old EMG P pickups I found in the bottom of a box after I moved house. For some people I think the availability of custom options is a real lure with Fenders. It's gotta be the cheapest way to get a custom built (ish) bass. I think the reason people are reluctant to modify something like a Lakland or a Sadowsky is that the upgrades have kind of been done already.

OK maybe you need a small shim, but at the front, not the back of the neck pocket? Or truss rod adjustment? Or both... If it's choking from 12th fret, I doubt removing the overhang is going to help much.

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1383676494' post='2267573'] I was quite interested until I saw the price. £1900 - not a frakking chance. [/quote] +1900

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1383650296' post='2266947'] What bass or guitar is this and what are the pickups? Having both pickups out of phase should actually help cancel some of the hum. I think there's more at work here. Do you get the same hum where ever you play - gigs/rehearsals/at home? [/quote] Seconded. I think there is something off in the wiring if the shielding is fine...

IS it dfinitely the fret? not just an over-shimmed neck joint? You could just file it down if it is the fret. gotta be easier than cutting it off, plus it can be replaced.

Reported too. hopefully if they get enough they will pull it down. Shocking fake. Serial number doesn't even check out!

Yeah, go easy, it looks like a neat job, and if you really wanted to you could get a genuine 70s scratchplate from one of those nasty breaker types and cover it up. It's not like someone has carved an effigy of Elvis on the headstock... Personally I think that might have an awesome sound if you combine the Gibbo neck PU with the 70s position bridge PU... loads of Sub with added growl. My 70s Jazz just sounds weak with the bridge pickup alone, I always have to blend in a bit of the NPU for the bottom end, I've often thought it would be great to combine it with the tone of my end of neck Ric sound...

As said, it's end of line stock going at clearance prices - I think Fender will be making their dealers clear this to make room for whatever new range they have planned. I can't see them buying a company like Genz then just stopping them, they will probably bring out a new Fender range of essentially re-badged Genz stuff but with more of an accountants perspective on the components and QC... For us, the consumer, it means the chance to grab some bargains, but bear in mind there may no longer be the great aftersales support that Genz Benz are renowned for. FWIW I'm one of a few who really did not like my Genz Benz amp, I bought one, it broke, had it replaced, that broke, had it repaired, it broke, repaired again, sold it. Never really liked the sound. The shop (not GAK) ended up looking after all the aftersales back and forth because I'm in the UK, and they were great by the way. But just be warned, they can go wrong and when they do you'll be dealing with Fender ultimately...

I used one of[url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_powerplant.htm"] these[/url] for a while with my compressore. It's 500mA not 600mA though. It seemed to work OK. I think it's the valve that needs all that juice. But when I switched to just a Zoom B3 and Compressore I went back to using the original PSU since its only 2 plugs in total (3 including the amp).

2x12s are the new 4x10s - before the 4x10s came along everyone was using 1x15 or 1x18 It's just technology moving on. Yes many of the big players have a 4x10 and 1x15 setup (in the ads at least) But take a good look at their real backline - most of them are bi-amped or indeed using two separate amplifier heads, one for the 4x10s, one for the 1x15s. I've got a Carvin BX series (you should check them out if you can) and a lightweight 2x12 that will handle over 1000W. I won't need a bigger rig. These days, beyond a certain size venue you will have PA support so your rig is just personal monitoring. Below that you won't need more than a 4x10 or a 2x12 in this day and age. in the old days they had stacks of speakers because the speakers couldn;t handle much more than 100W each.

My apologies, thought it was passive like mine.

I would check the shielding on your bass.

Yep I had it happen with a Roland PSU, 3 gigs in a row I thought there was a dodgy earth somewhere. Finally figured it out when guitard borrowed the PSU to check his pedalboard and the humming shifted to his amp! Make sure you get one with enough mA

Simple Answer... Your Cab should be OK with any amp that will output less than 600 Watts at 8 Ohms. OK As in it won't catch fire or damage the speakers even at full volume. BUT... If you crank the Low Frequencies up high enough, you can still do damage.

Are these Jazz Bass Mags? (I'll get my coat)

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1383253115' post='2262306'] I'm surprised. Is it really easier to open up the pocket than to get at the sides of the neck? How does that work, please? [/quote] Yes much easier. The width of the neck at the heel tapers to the width at the nut in a single line, if you shave a bit off you'll have a step. plus you won't be able to put it back on. Opening up the neck pocket is really simple. So you need 1mm more width for the neck? take 1/2mm off each side - you can probably do this with sandpaper easily enough for such a small amount. I would check that the neck is the right length before you do this though. has it got the same number of frets as the neck that is supposed to be in there? If not, you'll find your bridge is in the wrong position (whether you shave the neck or the pocket!). So be ware!

Maybe they've cut even more corners with these ones, I had one of the older ones with the satin finish neck. lovely little bass for under £250, but I agree all the bits on it feel a bit cheap - because they are. The only thing I have left unchanged is the neck, which is actually awesome.

Yep, pretty consistent with my mid 70s fender, there's room for a pint glass on the neck pocket overhang of mine

Wow that's loads of power! Great Pre-amp on the new Carvins though. My BX500 barely gets past No.2 on the Master volume, even on a loud gig!