brensabre79

$250 new. But you don't get the 'On damage' if you buy it new

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1382094191' post='2247790'] This is very much the niche we've been wanting to fill with our first PA cabs but we haven't had time to get any to market what with all the bass cab stuff. I strongly suspect that a modern lightweight power amp with DSP driving two Big Baby 2s could outperform many top + sub rigs at a fraction of the size and weight. DSP could be used for room space correction as well as EQ and crossing over to an optional sub for bigger/outdoor gigs. Anyone local want to test such a rig once we have some time? [/quote] Another local happy to test Alex, Barefaced user, play in a function band. Already have lightweight Class D Amp, but no DSP, using outboard GEQ and Mixer. Currently with VERY heavy Yamaha PA speakers - I always thought of using a couple of Midget Ts as tops actually, don't have the budget at the moment...

[url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/sub-miniature-fully-enclosed-carbon-preset-potentiometers-6499"]Sorry, These[/url] should do if you go down that route. But SparkBird is right, there is a much simpler way than S-1 and Presets. If you're happy with a blend pot or even two volumes then that saves a LOT of hassle. However you do it, the wiring for the Series/Parallel is really simple - and you can do this with a pull up volume pot. [attachment=146406:ser-par-lp-N.gif]

OK Here's the diagram. I think it's right, it was a long time ago when I did this... (series parallel switch on the left may be mirror image depending on what default state you want) - BPU –ve should also go to earth! You need the Fender S-1 pot. I got mine with a Jazz bass but you should be able to source one [url="http://www.allparts.com/006-1260-000-250K-Pot-Assembly-for-Tele-S-1-Switch_p_72.html"]online[/url]. Also a 2 pole 5 position rotary switch (should just fit in the place of second volume pot) - a bit fiddly to wire up. ([url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/rotary-switches-2417"]Maplin[/url] or [url="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Rotary-Switch-2-Pole-5-Position-for-G-ES345-5P-/300645910911"]eBay[/url]) This circuit also uses [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/cermet-preset-potentiometers-2200"]mini-preset variable resistors[/url] (250k) to pre-set the blend level of the pickups (you can use a blend pot if you prefer - much simpler wiring, but slower to get 'that' sound on stage). (Maplin) - I'd set up the blend while the control panel is open, once you're happy, put it all away and you'll have that blend every time

I think the EMGs must be passive looking at the above. DO you like the volume for each pickup layout? I don't, so when I modded my Jazz I configured as follows: Rotary 5 position PU switch: Neck - Neck+50%Bridge - Both - Bridge+50%Neck - Bridge (or you could have a blend knob) Master Volume with S-1 switch in the top (push/push) to connect pickups in series and override switch (you could use a pull up vol pot instead). Stacked active tone controls. I can post diagram if that's of interest.

Another fan here. Having engineered live shows a couple of times for Jan few years back (it was an absolute honour!) I can honestly say he's a true gent. Moving Waves was the soundtrack to my exam revision studies too. Can't imagine it without his distinctive guitar playing to be honest, what I've seen of the current line up on you tube doesn't seem to quite have 'it' - or maybe the grass was greener in those days

Get a Class D lightweight Head - there are lots to choose from, all with different character (mainly down to the Pre-amp) My personal favourite at the moment is the Carvin BX series - the BX500 is amazing value, weighs about the same as a car stereo and is seriously loud with a decent cab. The tone you're after may differ though... There are many lightweight cabs on the market. A GOOD 2x12 will be comparable with your 4x10 in terms of the sound/volume. I use a Barefaced, but there are many others around. Barefaced stuff is very very good, they have higher spec drivers than most, but it is not the cheapest cab around, so depends on your budget. There's a few deals knocking around on lightweight 2x12 cabinets. Especially end of line stuff, or even secondhand (have a look on here).

[quote name='BigAlonBass' timestamp='1380525285' post='2226416'] Yep, with an "explanation" in the description. [/quote] I don't buy that explanation. My dad used to sell Gibsons in the 70s and 80s. The woodgrain thing is true, but they would just make it a solid colour, to cover it, end of. What constitutes a 'second' is usually more than something that is a no longer an issue when you paint it! Actually Gibson had two grades of seconds, slight seconds had a star stamped on the back of the headstock, the really bad ones had 'SECOND' stamped just like this one. It is possible that whatever the issue was is no longer an issue, as the bass is old, but it means that it could not be sold at full price new because of some flaw. Either the finish went off wrong, or there was an issue with the neck / truss-rod for example. Generally something like a defective pickup would be resolved at the factory. Also, many gibsons of this era were appallingly made. the QC was not great. Not to say this one is a bad buy, but I would certainly want to check it over very thouroughly before buying!

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1381756588' post='2243179'] They totally did that. Not seen a strat actually, but teles and Rick 4003 copies (I have two). They branded them CMI, made in Japan, pretty good instruments. [/quote] Really not the same though Oli, they imported them, and used a different name. So a bit like as I was suggesting, get someone else to build to your spec and rebrand / co brand them...

I think unless your aim IS to set the amp/cabinet world on fire by doing something 'different' you're not really going to get anywhere. As a guitar maker, you might be better off partnering with some of the smaller amp / cab makers and recommending a product you strongly feel you can get behind, maybe even talk to thm about doing some custom models for you, to be co-branded... Think of it this way, if Marshall decided to bring out a strat copy do you think it would be respected/revered enough for them to sell in decent numbers (by that I mean enough to justify the cost of producing such a thing)..? or do you think they would partner up with a respected guitar manufacturer and make big news about the fact that they have worked together to develop a unique product that Marshall product users would appreciate...?

Wax potting will usually solve microphonic pickup problems. Given their age, it's likely the'll need doing anyway. If the output from them is fine then the windings should be intact (sometimes these corrode). I would have recommended [url="http://www.wizardpickups.co.uk/"]Wizard[/url] pickups, as they have done mine in the past... but as they are no longer, you could try [url="http://www.creamery-pickups.co.uk/guitar-pickup-repairs-and-rewinds.html#.UlupdyQ4SUA"]The Creamery[/url]. I haven't used them so can't recommend, but I hear good things. Or if you're feeling brave... [url="http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/How_To_Pot_Your_Own_Pickups"]have a go yourself[/url] Personally, with pickups from a '68 Jazz, I would not be brave enough to have a stab.

[quote name='tayste_2000' timestamp='1378302358' post='2198358'] In case anyone cares I got this gig [/quote] Good work fella

Probably because its meant to be: steve@thefivebeat[u][b]s[/b][/u].co.uk

[quote name='Max Normal' timestamp='1283991253' post='950134'] I saw this neck mounting kit, where basically you install externally self-tapping brass ferrules that also have a normal threat down the centre hole. This means that when you install the neck, the screw holes are more or less impossible to strip and you can take the neck on and off as often as you like, and you get a better contact between neck and body = more sustain and tone. I thought something like this would be ideal for the bridge as well, as you really get a good chunk of metal right down in the wood of the body, and you can get a good tight fit of the bridge onto it and really get those strings resonating the wood. I'm going to try this method with the custom build I'm working on (probably with a BadassIII or Hipshot through body mount for even more string/body contact). I'll post the results in a few weeks. [/quote] This is how the Musicman bridges work I think, with the two big allen bolts at either side - but they also have the standard wood screws in the middle...

Is that the battery on the top right of the pic? with a cover over it? I reckon you could squeeze one in there, they are not much bigger than the battery... Or like iKay says, carry a screwdriver and change battery regularly! it's only 4 screws from the looks of it

I'm not familiar with that bass, but as nobody else has chimed in... I'm guessing its some sort of metal / plastic plate around the back of the bass (unlike most Fenders)? If so, it may be possible to cut out a hole in the back plate and insert a normal flip open battery holder (Gotoh do a good one) onto the plate. Then it will sit flush with the back of the bass, when new battery time comes it should take you seconds. I would not recommend using the original one so you can put it back one day. It should not be hard to get a new one cut though (including hole) just use the original as a template. Depending on the size you might want to consider how much flex there will be from carrying the weight of the battery - Perspex may crack when you're pushing a battery in. Metal will need to be earthed.

I think the best thing is to just play with your fingers, there's no substitute for the real thing. It's a bit like using a keyboard in place of a brass section if you ask me... But if you want to go down this route, basically you want to adjust the envelope and tone of the signal. You can roll off the treble a bit (or use EQ to take some of the harshness away) and use a decent compressor, with some fairly extreme settings to go either way (more or less attack basically)... Although those felt plectrums seem like a good compromise to me.

Best bet is to take one of the others out and get down to a decent hardware store. You probably wont get an exact match for colour, but you may get one the same thread and length. Failing that, many music stores still carry a 'Schaller box' under the counter with various screws and bolts etc for guitars - you might be lucky!

[quote name='Salt on your Bass?' timestamp='1380979571' post='2233057'] I think if this thread highlights anything it's that you can't just Chuck any old speaker in any box and expect it to be ok. [/quote] +100 Every time I see a thread on here asking "can i stick driver X in my old brand Y cabinet as a replacement" I cringe a little. The answer is usually "possibly". Always, always run a simulation using WinISD or similar before shelling out ££s for a driver. I have to say, I have dealt with Eminence directly in the past and found them to be very helpful and informative, even if they did send me to Blue Aran to actually buy the product, the technical support peeps were more than happy to advise. You can't expect a distributor to know such detailed parameters as these, and ultimately if you don't know what you're doing with these things the safest way is always to go to the manufacturer for a like-for-like replacement.

Well I suppose it's one way to get around the patented / copyrighted design issue (head sold separately?)

When I used to teach sound recording, many, many years ago, I always used to warn my students before the critical listening module... It will change the way you listen to music forever, and it may well ruin some of your favourite records, while at the same time helping you appreciate some of your least favourite ones more. This looks like a great, in depth, course (7 weeks!). For anyone wanting to record and mix their own stuff I think critical listening can do more for your mixes than any piece of outboard or plug-in equivalent But if you can't go on this course it is a skill you can pick up yourself, it's all about training your ears (and your mind).

I've noticed there is a camp of Barefaced haters on here, they are definitely in a minority and I cannot say whether it's a justified opinion or not - who knows what experience these people have had (I notice they are being quiet on the subject presently). I can say though, that Barefaced cabs present you with a very uncoloured sound, so with some amps, especially ones designed to go with very coloured cabs (e.g. rhymes with shampeg), what comes out might not be to your liking. (e.g. if the previous cab had a very scooped sound, and the amp that works really well with it has tons of mid-range - switching to Barefaced will result in a really mid-heavy sound). If you love your amp, and a certain cab makes it sound like crud, you're not going to like that cab. However misinformed that reasoning may be...

I reckon there will be a few second hand midgets appearing soon with the new gen Barefaced stuff rolling out. But with that amp (and that EQ) you should be able to get a grin out of any half decent cab, as long as it'll take the power at low frequencies, and it's reasonably efficient, you should be fine. You might just need to tweak the EQ a bit depending on the cab.

Are both the Amp and Cab new? We haven't ruled out the amp in this yet. If you're getting buzz from both the horn/tweeter and the main drivers (all of them?) then the buzz is likely to be coming from before the speaker. If it's all new stuff, I'd take the lot back to where you bought it, demonstrate the buzz and get them to sort it.

There are so many things it could be. There's a chain of signal from your bass to the speaker, any one of these things can cause a buzz. It may be the ground (earthing) on your bass, or on your amp. It may be the power supply where you are plugging it in. It may even be the strip light in the other room getting picked up by either the amp or bass. I would try, if you can, to rule out things it could be. And to help diagnose it we could do with more info... Is it a consistent buzz, or is it only when you play? Is it high pitched or low (like a hum)? You could try a different bass. Try with no jack lead plugged in to the front of the amp at all. Try a different amp if you can. Or try setting the rig up in another building.