brensabre79

OK thanks Phil, I think I got it now. Thanks for all your help with this, its a really unusual build and the first prototype has not performed well being required to go down to 20Hz cleanly, without chuffing, and in a fixed size box! Much appreciated.

An amp tech might be able to look at it. But it depends on how corroded it is and if battery acid has eaten the components as to whether its cost-effective to repair...

I got one from [url="http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/guitarsandotherstuff"]here[/url] about a year ago, its a nice neck and fitted a Mex Fender body perfectly

I think Allparts do have quite a few on the bay, but they won't be cheap. If you're taking a punt theres lots around, look for someone who sells mostly necks and bodies, preferably licenced or at least very detailed descriptions, and lots of good feedback!

There are lots of people selling bass necks at all sorts of prices on eBay, I've had a few, some great, some awful, one so bad I actually put it on the fire! Its really difficult to say. You can't tell anything from the pictures, but I'm sure if it doesn't fit you can put it back on eBay...

Thanks Phil, I understand, but how do I calculate a shelf port dimensions? Is it true that it is not a simple case of calculating a round port volume and making the shelf port the same volume? Is it affected by the fact that three sides of the port are also sides of the cabinet? I heard somewhere that it needs to be shorter because of this, reducing the volume of the port.

OK Thanks Bremen. Any ideas on the shelf port? Cheers

This is the Xmax / Cone excursion issue with a 20cm dia. port at 32.12cm length. Should I be worried about this?

OK more precisely 38.49Hz for the Port. Could anyone tell me how to do a shelf port then please...

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1363374167' post='2012119'] What drivers are you using, what size cab and what port frequency do you fancy? [/quote] Current favoured drivers are Fane Sovereign 12-500LF Volume 131Litres Frequency - trying to get 30Hz - 40Hz just to even out the low end. but getting crazy Xmax as above...

Thanks folks, I'm currently experimenting with drivers to get the best results, its a bit of a strange design this one, for a strange purpose (can't tell you too much as we're still in R&D) A shelf port would probably make life much easier but I've no idea how to do those, having been exclusively cardboard tube with previous designs! I've got a basic modelling Excel spreadsheet to do the calculations, but not sure how to do shelf ports, multiple drivers. Currently whatever drivers I use I'm getting some crazy Xmax results below 30Hz - in that it goes way beyond the capabilities of the driver. (like 15cm!) I'm also quite restricted in terms of the cabinet volume.

Wow OK, thanks! what about the port though?

Hi folks, I've designed cabinets before using just one driver, this is simple using something like the Faber Acoustical App on the iPhone or even various websites where you put in the T&S parameters of the driver and tune the cab and port accordingy. However, i need to design a cabinet that will use 4x12" drivers. Neither the app or the websites I have used offer this capability and I'm not sure its as simple as just quadrupling the volume for one driver is it? I don't have WinISD because I'm Mac based. SO can anyone help? Cheers Bren

I'd get a Squier VMJ without hesitation. I was lucky enough to be given a Fender USA Fretless Jazz Bass Deluxe otherwise I would have bought a VMJ. I found the lined board helpful when making the transition, just to check in now and again. But do you know what, they are much easier to play than you would think, the muscle memory is all the same, and if you get something like what your used to the changeover is simple. I picked up my FL again the other day actually, I think I'm gonna gig it at the weekend For strings, I prefer the roundwound sound, but I was told I was eating into the fretboard with them (and too nice a bass to mess up) so I was recommended half-flats (I think they are LaBella). Anyway, they sound like rounds, but play like flats. Bingo! [quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1363281758' post='2011024'] I've heard of people using 1200 grit sandpaper to work superglue into the fingerboard grain on fretlesses when playing with roundwounds, I'm not brave enough to do it to mine. Anyone ever heard of this or is it a dream I had? [/quote] Not sure I've heard about that, but many have coated the board with marine epoxy - which is what Jaco did. It sets hard and even, but I wouldn't attempt it myself!

Looks like a Rockinbetter, but in white.

[quote name='umcoo' timestamp='1363210750' post='2009983'] I know Ampeg's quality has supposedly dropped in the last few years, but can't get away from that 'classic' bass tone. Thanks again! [/quote] Whilst I agree about the quality, the classic tone only comes from the valve amps IMO. I was tempted by the SVT7 class D, but they don't sound like a proper SVT either.

I've owned a real Rickenbacker in the past. I also own a Rockinbetter now. It took a bit of work to get it to sound like a Ric, (basically new pickups and electrics) but it has always played better than both the Ric i owned (and paid a large sum of money for) and the Rics I have played. Most people who see it walk up to me and say "Hey thats a nice Ricken... oh..." I own a number of Fender Jazz basses. I owned a number of Jazz Bass copies in the past. And a couple of Squiers in between. The real Fenders are better, so I don't have the copies any more. The Rockinbetter, is the single most expensive 'copy' I have ever owned (these are nearly £500 new now) but it plays really well, and after some modifications sounds really good too. And here is the problem for Mr Hall, The cost of a genuine Rickenbacker is largely swallowed up with US labour, wheras companies like Fender and Gibson, for example, have lower priced options available made overseas. Nobody just starting out on an instrument is going to spend £1,200 + just to see... They will more than likely get a budget starter instrument, and over the years make gradual upgrades, until one day they settle with a pro quality bass. Have the Korean made Squiers cheapened the Fender brand? No. Have they encouraged beginners to aspire to a US Fender one day? Yes - probably via a Mexican/Japanese Fender along the way. That's 2-4 basses sold by Fender Co. whilst Billy is saving up for his Ric.

I'll second that iiipopes, I always have to blend in a bit of neck PU with the bridge to avoid losing the low end completely. The BPU on its own just sounds nasal. (mine's 70s spacing though so probably worse than most for that)

As the ramp needs to be quite precisely aligned to the angle of the neck etc. I don't know if this will be an off-the-peg item. You could try talking to a luthier near you, I'm sure they'd be happy to fit one.

Robinsons do the bottling for A LOT of other beer companies in the UK (e.g. Theakstons), they are also doing a lot of branded beers for people including bands, because they have the capabilities now with their bottling and brewing facilities.

I'd say the caps are blown! But like iCastle says, might not be all... Another thing the Combo 300 is rather prone to that makes a crackle is the soldering of the inductor coil. Its easy to spot this, its a coil of copper wrapped in cardboard. These can work a bit loose with the internal vibrations and very small cracks can appear in the solder - which supports the entire weight of the coil! It should just need resoldering - it happened to mine and it took me ages to figure it out. Simple test is to turn the thing on with the amp open and, with something non-conductive (plastic pen), you can give the coil a light tap.

Well I suppose it's a better pastime than shilling Precisions on eBay. I can't help but feel this is just a shameless plug for your website though...

Yes

I would say these are nothing like a Geddy Lee bass. The pickups are in the wrong place for a Geddy (and the wrong kind) the neck will be fatter than a Geddy one too. Definitely fanboy stuff given the pricetag... it's just a VM'77 with some stickers on. They are good basses for the money (usual money not this one) but nothing like a Geddy.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1362665988' post='2003024'] Should be noted it isn't the class that causes things to be upset by no load, its the use of an output transformers, you could make a class D amp with an OT, and one with valves, and it would be upset by no load, ditto with solid state amps with output transformers. [/quote] I bow to your superior knowledge Oli I thought when I said class D I was referring to these new-fangled B&O car stereo type thingies with the SMPS - which the Terror is one of.