brensabre79

If its your Orange Terror Bass Amp you're talking about it[i] should [/i]be fine. Class D power amps (as yours is) are pretty resilient, generally don't require a load (speaker) and I know other makes I've tried are perfectly fine in this scenario. But I'd like to be clear that [b]I MAKE NO GUARANTEES ON BEHALF OF THE MANUFACTURER[/b]. So you might just want to check with Orange first

I have no idea what these go for in Lithuania, but of the vintage Fender years, this is possibly the lowest they went in terms of cost cutting and build quality. The white pickups, body colour and neck design all scream early 80s to me (many early 80s instruments has S8 serial numbers which often get mistaken for 1978). Not long after these were made Fender shifted production to Japan - for a while USA production stopped completely. The reason for the shift was that the Japan built Squier series were actually considerably better instruments, on average than the Fender ones, so much so that these early Japan Squier basses fetch a high price now! So back to your bass, things I would consider and definitely want to find out are, how well built is it? This one is transparent finish which is a good thing because you can see the wood. I would definitely want to play it, and check the neck etc. If you're happy and you want it then great. It will not be worth as much as a Fender Jazz Bass from the 60s or 70s (genuine 70s with block inlays on the neck amongst other things). It might not even be worth as much as one from the late 80s/early 90s. I reckon £400 - £500 would be a fair price to pay over here - assuming it plays OK and everything checks out.

So you've got 6x10" running 350w and you want to move more air? A 4x10 will push way more air than a 1x15, its all about the surface area (not watts) when talking about moving air and 4x10" has more surface area than 1x15" a 10" is 350 sq.cm (x4) = 1,400 sq. cm (x6) = 2100 sq.cm a 15" is 850 sq.cm an 18" is 1500 sq.cm. Have a [url="http://barefacedbass.com/technical-information/speaker-size-frequency-response.htm"]looky here[/url] for more detailed info. So, when you say you want to move more air, do you mean that your amp is not loud enough for a gig? (Are you playing the o2?) I would check that your amp is running 350w with the Peavey plugged in to it too (not sure how the impedance works with that) e.g. if your 210 is 8 ohms, and your Peavey is 8ohms, the signal will split evenly between the two cabs at a total of 4 ohms. So 175w will go to your 2x10, and 175w will go to your Peavey (at full chat - and this is only theoretical) Meaning your 2x10 is doing twice as much work as your 4x10 (per speaker). It may be that replacing the 2x10 combo with a higher power standalone amp head will do the trick for you. e.g. a 600w (at 4 ohms) head could get you about 400w to your Peavey 4x10 (at 8 ohms). (if it will take it) and you have less to carry... And if you really want the sound of a 15" - you could add a Peavey 115BXBW as Phil said, but personally I wouldn't just something to think about. I would [u]definitely not[/u] buy some cheapo powered monitor or something not built for bass!

It feels like a 4 or 5 way divorce when a good band that you're emotionally invested in splits for whatever reason. And you have to invest in it emotionally or it would be just like a session band - none of which sound enjoyable to me, all the chops, but no soul you know? (don't get me wrong, they have their place, but when you form a band with people you get on with both socially and musically it is a family like bond that forms between you that grows stronger as the years pass). So, I feel you're pain, I've been there too and it sucks, whatever the reason. You can still be mates with these guys though, don't forget that!

Same items all here too: http://www.switchmusicsupplies.co.uk/ but cheaper!

[quote name='davidlovellbass' timestamp='1362142704' post='1996340'] I've tried using my sansamp as an overdrive both before the amp and in the effects loop as well as using a good quality guitar overdrive and blending it in with the effects mix on my amp and still wasn't happy with the sound. Using a DI for the bass signal and a bassman for the distorted sound works really well as it gives all the cleans from the DI but valve amp distortion to really fill out the mix and because it's a bassman and not a marshall it has the right amount of low end to work with the bass drum [/quote] Well Ok, but I would use a bass cab rather than a guitar cab, unless you can get rid of the low frequencies going through the bassman! otherwise it will cost you a fortune in speakers...

To compound this further, even with the poles in the correct place, unless the pickup follows the curve of the neck / string heights then they are going to be different anyway (the middle strings being further away). The P-Bass design overcomes this, but the J-Bass design does not. My Ric copy has a 6-pole pickup at the neck and output seems fine for what its worth (a bit lacking in treble but thats another thing)...

I think for live you might be better with a bass amp and an overdrive pedal. A bass amp will cover the whole frequency range and if you get an overdrive with a crossover/blend control it will let the lower frequencies through unhindered but overdrive the top end only. If you're going through a guitar amp I think some kind of high pass filter might be in order as they don't take too kindly to low frequencies!! And of course you'll also need a bass amp to carry the low end. Plus, a bass amp and a pedal is cheaper and easier to transport and set up than a bass amp and a guitar amp!

Yes I think the price is way high. Its not really as if Dave Pegg actually used it either. It was given to him and then he obviously sold it on to this guy the moment he got back off tour - hardly a ringing endorsement! I'm sure its a lovely bass, but the back-story is carrying quite a premium. Now if it had been the bass Dave Pegg had used for 30 years it might be a different story.

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1362081155' post='1995573'] You absolutely must drill a pilot hole first. Without it you could split the wood or strip the head off the screw when you attempt to drive it in. [/quote] +1 I forgot to mention this!

Hey snaredrum, welcome. I would second whats been said above. i have a short scale bass i occasionally use, and I would say the lowest tuning I've for without the 'flub' is F# or G. Thats to say, even at standard tuning it's pretty flubby... Yes thicker strings will help (although its more to do with tension than thickness, but broadly speaking thicker strings have higher tension) - i would also suggest using something like the [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/DR_Strings_Lo_Rider_Stainless.html"]DR Lo-Rider strings[/url], and get a 45-130 5-string set and just use the bottom 4 strings. LoRiders are designed for down-tuning, so should carry a bit more tension low down than most... (edit for typo)

Has it got an open jack socket?

+1 hardwood dowel, glue it in. I had the same issue - straplocks or not. In the end I araldited the screw in there, it's been ok for the last 5 years.

I don't get the stigma with plywood bodies, and considering US Fenders of a certain era were made with the most awful pieces of broom handle wood glued together the integrity of plywood is often superior. I think when people see the word plywood they think of the crappy stuff you get from a builders merchants. There are guitars in excess of £3,000 new with plywood bodies! I just renovated an early 90s Squier strat for a mate. It's been used on tour with Whitesnake, played on countless records and it has a plywood body and horrid tuners. Sounds and plays really well though!

Here's a great site for compressor reviews. http://www.ovnilab.com/ I use a Markbass Compressore, and actually i have it before everything else - it works for me. Compressor > Tuner > Synth > Chorus > Drive. But I only use one of the last 3 at a time... I do find I have to have the Chorus really going some to hear the effect of it, I only use it for one song though. i hate them.

Another innocent bystander here. I've not read all of the thread, just parts of it. I cannot understand why people, especially Bill and Roger have received so much flak. But then I fail to see why so many times when recognised experts have come in to the forum to share their insights, they have been berated by people who don't like what they hear. As Bill mentioned above, Alex doesn't come around too often these days, I wouldn't be surprised if Roger doesn't either. And its a real shame because I, for one, have learnt so much from all these guys, who have given up their time for our education and entertainment. <rant> I'm all for discussion, and difference of opinion is a GOOD THING but, once you have stated your opinion, it is perfectly acceptable that someone will disagree with it, there's no need to delve into a battle of words as if by winning that battle you will somehow be correct. If you don't like someone's product, you can just say "I don't like it personally" and leave it there - there's no need to have some pseudo scientific argument to back it up! In fact doing so only makes you look like a tool. I'm quite happy with my speaker cab, I don't fully understand the science of it, but I understand that someone who does know about these things has put a lot of time and effort in to making it so. I know my ears and I know I like it. I also know many people don't like the cab I use, it sounds foul to their ears and they would never consider buying one. No amount of scientific posturing, reviews in Bass w***er magazine, or opinions stated on here are going to change my mind, or theirs for that matter. </rant> and breathe

+1 RME stuff I had a toneport once, it was rubbish. I had a MOTU, it was alright. Then I got an RME fireface, and even just loading up an old mix it suddenly sounded 'expensive' - like it was recorded in a proper studio rather than a bedrrom. (I know the difference, I used to work in proper studios) i have not looked back since, their stuff is great and I constantly get complements from Mastering Engineers since I made the switch.

I've got a song that'll get on your nerves, get on your nerves, get on your nerves. I've got a.... Seriously though, I get this all the time, bass lines running through my head constantly distracting me from everything I do (Yep Love cats for me too, amngst others). The only [i]Cure[/i] for me is to go to a music shop and ask to try a bass at which point I draw a complete blank as to anything at all to play!

Goliath i and ii = awesome - designed by David Eden as well. After that (iii+) they did decline a bit with each new model and when Fender took over they became a bit bog standard for my liking (but cheaper). I had an early Goliath and I gigged it solidly for 20 years, without a flight case, left it in damp lockups, really gave it a kicking on stage with an 800w power amp. It sounded as sweet the day I sold it last year, as the day i bought it, and the new owner couldn't be more delighted - he's a pro player out gigging it too. Damn heavy but near bulletproof! As for GK, well you're clearly a fan from your Avatar. Personally I've never liked or disliked their stuff that I've tried, but plenty of people i know swear by their amps. in the end only you can decide, but GK stuff will be much more easy to find!

Custom Sound were built in the UK (Oswestry I think) many many years ago. I only ever had one of their products, a well used PA head. It was plenty loud enough when it worked, but one night, mid set, and without provocation, it gave birth to the name of the covers band I was playing in at the time "The Spontaneous Combustion Band"... As everyone here has said, if its a power amp and you're using things like an EQ pedal or a Mic Pre for an instrument, you can't expect what comes out of it to be any good. Crap in = crap out. If he built in EQ is set flat, whatever resonances and distortions are occuring are probably down to what you're feeding in to it. Without knowing the full specs of this thing its also worth considering the impedance and the fact that it is way old. If it goes down to 2ohms and you run it at 4 (or rated 4 running 8) you can expect 2/3 of the power output rated.

Yeah they pretty good, I used to be in a band with the keyboard player and old bassist (who was on gtr then), they're all good guys

Posting this for a mate, they are a really good band but too far away from me. http://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=10151463342759785&id=63111544784

Cheers man

I hate those things. How to ruin a valve amp in one rim-shot! Whenever i see one of these now I request that either we get a supply to the stage which is not on the meter, or the venue reimburses the cost of revalving and repairing our amps. We usually get the extension lead. The lights can run off the meter.

http://youtu.be/dpwnZLWaxRw