tauzero

Need not even be angled - a right-angle jack plug would solve that.

There's something else you could try - driving the LCD direct from the Arduino rather than through the I2C adaptor. More fiddly but it may be the I2C bus that's slowing it down. https://docs.arduino.cc/learn/electronics/lcd-displays/ Also, junk the Uno and use an ESP32. Smaller, cheaper, and you have wireless and bluetooth built in if you want to use them.

At least you can evaluate the degree of neck dive before sticking lead into the end of the body.

Don't forget that the 100BT disregards the 75% of mobile phones that use Android. This is something that Zoom consistently do (they've done it with the G11, B2-Four, B6, and now the MS-50G+) and I don't understand it. Designing the user interface, the format of any database used, and the messages between pedal and phone are the big bits, they could surely hire someone in to port the iOS program over to Android. That could have quadrupled demand for the 100BT.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355197353785 If you insist on using that ugly jazz headstock, why not just extend the top horn so it's over fret 11 or so?

You know that the best way to prevent neck dive would be to remove unnecessary, ugly wood from the end of the neck, don't you? Especially if that ugly wood would otherwise be used to stick some lumps of metal on to increase its weight.

Glad you got it fixed. Dodgy joints are a right sod (and a problem as you get older too).

They're MK2, not BH2. I think it's just the BH2 that are the "fake Barts".

Not sure about a reversed lefty, the controls are right for a righty - might be an overshot lower horn a la Thunderbird (but not pointy). I looked for the Regents on Wikilies, then googled the personnel, and on checking Damian Pew I found this Fretboard thread: https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/242110/bass-id-anyone. If anyone knows a good medium, they could try checking with Damian Pew himself.

Nice wood, what a waste of it making a Fender.

I use either a Zoom MS-60B or an HX Stomp amp emulator (SVT on the Zoom, can't remember on the Stomp) which has a tiny bit of drive on it. I dislike excessive distortion - for a dirty sound I use the tape saturation effect on the Stomp.

Comparing and did anybody mention the problem he had intonating it?

As it would cost me a few quid to go to the Birmingham PMT, since it moved to inside the clean air zone, I have no idea what it's like now.

I should add: it's really fiddly soldering to barrel jack sockets in situ. If the wires to the socket aren't long enough to be able to dangle it out of the bass body and do your soldering there, extend them a bit. Just don't forget to thread the nut onto the wires inside the body before soldering them in place.

It might be worth adding the 5.8GHz band, which I assume is also free to use. Or maybe it isn't, Ofcom seems to say one thing, while GAK says it doesn't need a licence (https://www.gak.co.uk/en/wireless-systems?stockonly=false&layout=grid, near the bottom, "What is a Channel 38 licence and do I need one?"). Looking at https://www.cablefree.net/wirelesstechnology/unlicensed-wireless-links/using-the-5ghz-band-in-the-uk/, I assume that 5GHz wireless systems would use bands A or B and therefore be licence free.

I have gradually accumulated a vast amount of straps with straplocks on because buying complete Schaller straplocks isn't much more expensive than buying just the buttons. However, I did find some Schaller compatible buttons for a far better price on Ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134929630460 I've checked these with both Mk I and S-Lock Schallers, and they work with both. They came with a pair of chrome screws and a pair of black screws - the black screws were larger than the chrome screws and perfect for my application. They're only in chrome - I have found black ones available from Australia (still cheaper than buying genuine Schallers) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121810656520, though I haven't bought any so they are untested by me. Avoid anything described as "Schaller style" if you want to use them with genuine Schaller locks or buttons, they work the same way but the dimensions are far enough off so they're incompatible.

And I've been doing so well on the 2024 gear abstinence challenge.

"Shall we give it a pre-57 Precision headstock or post-57? I know, let's do both".

Presumably the C string is the intonation reference, hence not needing an adjuster. Just move the bridge to correctly intonate the C string and then, er, intonate all the others.

There's an entire production line at Hofner turning out stolen Macca basses. It's like the fragments of the true cross - Jesus would have needed a low-loader to have carried a cross weighing 65 tonnes.

Is it the X-USB Audio Driver v5.12.0? Download is working from the Behringer site. PS. You are trying to download it by clicking the download icon rather than right-clicking the icon and doing "Save as", aren't you? You have to accept the agreement that you get when you left click the icon.

You could see if you could get a direct replacement off Reverb - at least it's plug-and-play. The vast amount of spaghetti is because of the buffers - they prevent the pickups interacting with the volume and blend controls. The average preamp has the pickups going into the blend and volume controls, then to the preamp, tone controls wired to that, then out to the jack. These Barts with onboard buffers have the pickups going into the preamp, then back out to the blend and volume, then back in to the preamp with the tone controls, and finally out to the jack.

I would use the term "saddle insert" for the black bit and "saddle" for the whole block. Hipshot uses this terminology - https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/product/hipshot-kickass-saddle-set/

I'd be inclined to open the casing (if you can) and instead of re-using the insert, get a flanged nut of the same thread size and put that in place of the insert with the flange on the inside of the case, fixed in place using Araldite, the goddess of repairs.

Not offhand, but I'm sure it was a decently high impedance for the piezo as I'm aware of that need.