tauzero

They're not available new any more, hence the perfectly reasonable 356% mark-up.

So a lunatic is going to sexually assault her and run away, and the headline will say "Nut screws washer and bolts"?

It would appear they're over-egging the risk to life bit: https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/news-and-advice/chernobyl-safe-visit-tourism-ukraine-b1913150.html Probably more likely to decrease your life expectancy if you drive to/from a gig.

A quick Google reveals that it's a 4x10 available in 8 and 4 ohm versions, so it's presumably a 4 ohm job rewired so the 4 4 ohm drivers are in series.

The most usual British usage is that they're all bolts. And if you're fixing an unthreaded part to a threaded one, it's a screw. "Screws are used to assemble TO threaded objects". Not a screw or a bolt.

I bought a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M20x after recommendations on here and they're excellent. I have a pair of Sennheiser HD20somethings which they replaced that have now gone into the office (aka bedroom 4) which were also good but are now obsolete.

Basses - four German (three Warwicks and an Esh), three UK (Sei), the others are from assorted Far Eastern countries - Vietnam, China, Korea, probably Indonesia. One of the Vietnamese basses was my main bass for some years until I got the first Sei. Country of origin doesn't feature in my consideration of what to play. Amplification - Germany, Italy, China. Cabs - UK. Pedals - probably all Chinese.

Apparently it's the usage that determines which they are. Both bolts and screws can be partially or fully threaded. Bolts are used to assemble unthreaded objects, using a nut (but not a botanical nut). Screws are used to assemble to threaded objects.

No I haven't. If the bit on the strap turned a bit when I put it on, I knew the nut was a little loose so tightened it with my fingers, then tightened it up properly when I got home. It wasn't a regular maintenance job.

With all the references to "Toon wood", is the advert author an expat Geordie?

It's not a significant problem, and you snipped the bit where I mentioned the solution. And I have never wanted Dunlops, they look far too prone to failure whereas Schallers cradle the strap peg. And I've never had to lube the Schallers in 34 years.

The Boston variant of Schaller: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boston-Guitar-Strap-Locks-Chrome/dp/B0013NDUP0/?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=nav_ya_signin& Double nut, separate peg and screw. The real improved version of the original Schaller.

The original design from the 1980s that got replaced in about 2015? Never had a problem with them, I would say that the replacement is flawed. I've had Schallers on basses and guitars since first encountering them in 1987 on my Warwick Thumb. The nuts holding the straplocks to the strap occasionally worked loose. There was a Schaller-compatible (by Boston, I think) which eliminated this problem simply by having two nuts, so you locked the first one by tightening the second one onto it. The knurled knob (which you tighten by sticking an allen key through the hole) and grub screw on the new Schallers does mean they won't work loose as easily as the old ones, but the double nut solution is less elaborate and easier to use. I had problems with the strap pegs for the S-Lock as my decent metric hex keys span in a couple of them - see https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/439875-schaller-s-locks-a-disappointment/?tab=comments#comment-4265610

I fancy doing a prog version of it. 4h 33m, it'll be called.

I thought you generally went for the double tap.

They realised it was a fretless straight away? Took my band a year.

I thought I'd make my maiden post in this topic, seeing as things have gone a bit wide.

If you can't nail a song after zero listens by looking at the guitarist's fingers, then an open mic house band bassist's job isn't for you. Try something easy, like juggling chainsaws.

It was tricky, but I got "Waterfront" after one listen. May have needed two for "Purple Rain".

It was me who mentioned it before. I did play a 4-string but that was a lot of years ago and I've been a 5-string player for a while now, but my 5-string has a very playable neck - not quite the best I've played, but good.

Variax.

I think your cab might be the issue, as it's tweeterless and retro sounding. The Super Compact or Super Midget might be a better bet. If you still want to look at amps, there's a Tecamp Puma 900 in the For Sale section at the moment which would give you a good clean sound (not mine, but I do have one).

And I've just realised who the OP was, and I sold my PK-5a pedals to the bass player who was the one who succeeded me in the band.

The McMillen 12-step - unless you make one of your own using buttons and a decoder, which you wouldn't be able to get much smaller than the 12-step as you've got to avoid pressing two buttons/keys at the same time. You can program it to play chords as well as single notes, which is handy.

The Singing Defectives The Umpire Strikes Back Back to the Futile The Decade that Dies Hard