The Burpster

When I finally find another PRS to donate its neck for this operation I wil have it done by these.... [url="http://www.woodwiz.com/epoxy"]http://www.woodwiz.com/epoxy[/url] Even one of the PRS custom shop staff says their stuff looks good...... Thats good enough fgor me!

^^^that is a late 80's early 90's bass........ there was a lot of fashion accidents aroud then.... Look at the beautiful wood though! cut 'em a bit of slack, you [u][i]could[/i][/u] change the knobs of you wish! (actually I have on my Swamp Ash EB IV- just thought silver knobs match the rest of the hardware better!)

[quote name='Waldo' post='287308' date='Sep 19 2008, 02:17 PM']If they're anything like the guitars they'll look nice but not be anything other than overpriced.[/quote] And thats based on owning how many? I own 2 PRS EBIVs they are quite simply superb. The earlier fixed neck models (like Dodges above) whilst having Mojo are not as clever or versatile as the newer active EB IV (2000-2004), however in the right hands sound Waaaay funky.... I have some very nice basses and sadly none of them compare soundwise or buildwise to the PRSs..... I dont have shedloads of years playing basses but my guitarist and best mate who has been around the business for 25yrs owns + plays a PRS Custom 22's, and he has never seen or played a bass as good as my EB IVs. (including my CS Fender!) Passive it sounds like a J bass, Active it can do pretty much whatever you want and it does not hum, burp, fart, snap, crackle or pop. It sounds great with rounds, flats (my preferance) and even plastic flats.... Waldo, I promise you it will be good. I'll tell you what, if it is a mint EB IV from the above run, you buy it and dont like it I will have off you for what you paid for it how about that! Heres my 2.....

[quote name='budget bassist' post='286372' date='Sep 18 2008, 12:59 AM']I think most basses that are active tend to be passive pickups with active tone control. Am i right in thinking if you have active pickups and passive tone you wouldn't have as good control of the sound? EG you couldn't have a 3 band EQ etc, in which case i'd go for the passive pickup active tone circuit.[/quote] Active pups require powering to give anything like thier potential output, so you would still need to power to them. Which kinda defeats the object of passive tone control. Essentially your post is spot on..... Although I'd add active pup/active tone control circuit into the mix. This can generate a wonderful hi fi sound!

Try compression as above, or a valve driven preamp.... DHA on here does one that would add some oomf!

Some parts benefit by upgrades.... I think they are much maligned though.... I would much rather have one of these than a brand new Mex P deluxe (P+J pups)

If your patient you can do it, I've repaired quite a few dings now..... try to match paint type (like for like e.g. acrylic-acrylic) and an easy way to get a close match is acrylic nail varnish. Build the lacquer up slowly and let it cure for ages (read weeks) before making the final level/cut back and polish.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='279568' date='Sep 8 2008, 11:29 AM']Very good bass's though and much cheaper than the USA ones. This is (was) my Black one. [/quote] And this is it now.....

BTW..... This is what you can do to one if your sick like me..... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=18771&hl=highway"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...&hl=highway[/url] PS paid £300 for mine 2nd hand and mint.....

Not in a gigging band, I play (blues) socially with my mate in Nottm when I have time..... And I'm about 1/2 way between Lincoln and Grantham.....

Dont know what kind of music you like, but if SRV stuff is in there somewhere, try playing Texas Flood. I use a D tuner on my P for it now but have tried it on 5 string ...... That'll make your fingers work.

Most of the above is correct but a few details need clarifying. The H1 is MIA completely. Its not a lesser finish or finnished in Mexico, it is a single coat finish of cellulose, not the industry standard of 2 pack acrylic. This is done so that the finish wears quickly and gives the instruments the 'road used' look (or Highway as they say over the pond). It is a deliberate attempt to let the customer (us) make thier instruments into individual 'reliced' pieces much quicker. This does not make it in ANYWAY inferior to a std US model. In some ways I prefer them as they dont have a 1mm layer of finish between wood and hardware.... The ethos behind the H1 is its a 'rugged tool' for use on the road and if my P is anything to go by they are spot on....... Think of the H1 as a std US but not finished as pretty, with the intention of being used as much as possible and you have it on the head!

Greetings from 10 miles south of you on the A607 ----------

Actually CK that would be a ccol idea.... 1x Bartolini (my choice instead of EMG as they always sound a bit too hi fi to me) 1x Schaller 3-D 5 string peizo bridge OMG I'm salivating at the possibilities......

There was one (AFAIK) indentical to this for sale by a US ebay shop about 3 months ago...... Is that TOOoooooo much of coninkidink? I have seen it befor wher shops buy US stuff in USD then try to sell 'em here at huge profits.... It was up for about $1750 IIRC...... it is gen I believe (if indeed it is that one) but WAY overpriced....

If you can afford it and you want to then simply yes. Does it mean however that CIJ or MIJ Fenders are not better than some US ones? No. In my experience, US F are made of lovely components and some wonderful bits of wood, but their assembly can be a bit shonky. The Jap ones however are bit like Jap cars..... they may not have the badge but you'll be hard pushed (very hard pushed) to find a bad one. Mex F can be a bit of a lottery..... some of teh woodwork comes out of teh same factory as the US articles but maybe made of 3 or more pieces of wood instead of teh 2 a US one will be made of. Finishing has always been an issue with Mex F as well however you CAN get an abosolute peach of a Mex F that will kick the ass of a US one! Pays yer money takes yer choice......

My gripe is magazines that slag off a product or big it up like they have some esoteric view, and dont just report on the facts. In fact that goes for the press as a whole.....

VERY happy with my Morley but I do have big feet and the switchable min volume is superb [url="http://www.morleypedals.com/dpvo+.html"]http://www.morleypedals.com/dpvo+.html[/url]

Start from scratch with a decent Fender donor. Steer clear of that on ebay, getting invloved in somone elses 1/2 finished project is like a plot line for brookside. Besides starting with a big F, if you get board or want another project you can move it on..... If you want any advice at pimping a F, there are plenty on here that have done it including me.

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='271289' date='Aug 27 2008, 08:18 PM']Don't think I have ever seen a PRS bass I was tempted by a guitar version when I played guitar but the SG won te battle.[/quote] Wayne, Prepare to be dazzled! [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=19833&hl=boys"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=19833&hl=boys[/url]

there you go your wish is my command (ish) merged them....!

Hmmmmm, I know this is sad, but no one has anything that would tempt me away from my 2 PRSs...... Sorry.

[quote name='teen t-shirt' post='269755' date='Aug 25 2008, 08:51 PM']i live in RAF Digby... and travelling is a bit difficult as i have no mode of transport except for my parents atm and not the most reliable things eh? how ever thanks for the concern i think i have it all sorted the neck sounds better than ever and theres no buzz... tarr very much though...[/quote] You live about 6 miles away from me..... Get stuck again and give us a shout I'll pop over.....

Where abouts in Lincs are you? if you can make it to my place, I'll take you through a full set up, explain it to you (if you need it) and do any bits that are beyond you.... Cant say better than that can you? Cost? One beer!

Acrylic or manmade over cellulose is fine. Acrylic over acrylic is fine. Cellulose over acrylic is bad. So unless you are using cellulose lacquer- go ahead you'll be fine.... make sure its uber clean and flat. maybe wet and dry teh surface to key the new lacquer but theres little need to strip it, infact you'll make yourself a 5hit load of work doiing that!