LukeFRC

So as Andyjr1515 pointed out to me... I got the wrong length thread on the switch. The treble pot is a bit short too but you try finding a large selection of 1m rev log pots! Anyway a bit of fitting with a spare bit of the aluminium, and it doesn't get in the way of the battery box (an old warwick one I had in my spares box with the rest of the guts of my Streamer) Put everything together and it looks kinda bass shaped! Today I was rushing a bit and a few things went wrong... I struggled to get the holes drilled for the pickup cavities and the bridge wire... and in doing it managed to mess up the edge of the bridge of wood between the pickups. I also managed to go all the way through when drilling for the pickup screw - so I've got a tiny hole in the back - should be easily solved. There was something else that went a bit squiffy but I can't remember what.

But what was the hole for? Well this bass has a load of the ideas I've seen and though were cool and added onto this.... and this is borrowed off Jens Ritter... (I couldn't face a barrel jack)

Whci hshould be just the right size for the cavity... I hope so- for some reason if I got it this size it was half the price of getting it 2mm longer...

Today started with shaping this bit of aluminium

very good price that!

[quote name='ChazzJEUK' timestamp='1501531308' post='3345353'] Every bass I seem to come across pre owned that I take in part Ex/trade always seems to have stripped pickup screws. What is it with people and not using the right size screwdriver? Is it hard? What's the point in being lazy and ruining something then to just trade it off and make it someone else's problem? Sorry for the rant but this is so dam frustrating!! So sick of having to sort this problem and invest in new pickup screws every time I do a bass up to sell on. Not to mention they'r a pain in the A to get out in the first place! Anyone else notice the lack of care taken with preowned basses they happen to come by? [/quote] please take a photo of your Alpher pickup screws - I suspect they solved this problem for you

I used to use one some GP7 combo at church for years and it made me sound so spikey and 80's it was horrid. Then they got an Ashdowm ABM and it was like swimming in muddy wool. Somewhere in the middle would do me. Would like to try a GP12 SMX

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1501250577' post='3343632'] OK - makes sense. Do remember to chisel or drill a slot for the little tab on the five way put there to prevent the switch body turning in use. I don't generally bother with the standard pots, but the twisting resistance on a 5 way is high, so you will need that extra stability. It's a bit scary getting the chamber bottom (which of course is actually the guitar top) thin enough - if you have a choice, aim for reasonable thread length on the threaded portion of the pots. Certainly don't go for the short thread ones, which are designed for fitting to an aluminium or steel amp chassis [/quote] balls. though come up with a plan B

Sounds good - it's a rotery 5 way switch - mainly cos I couldn't work out a way to cut the slot for a strat style switch accuracy

That looks great! 32 years older than my "kinda custom shop" version!

How deep to folk do their control cavities?

oh and wiring planning.... Fender Roscoe beck meets musicman?

rounder bit number 1 and the bigger number two not quite perfect on that thin edge.

Next rear cavity - which I then forgot to take photos off when finished

Pet hates time #2 : crappy screws and fixings. If you ask me about what push bike you should buy, the reason I'm not going to suggest some cheap halfords brand (or worse) isn't because 'they are great spec for the money' or 'you're paying for the brandname' - it's because they often seem to save the money by buying screws that are made of cheese. And when you are miles from home in he freezing cold the last thing you want to do is try and adjust something that has no thread. The same is true in the bass world with cheap bass stuff. Actually it's worse in bass world cos metric screwdrivers and hex keys aren't the same as imperial screw drivers and hex keys... And one of the worst things about the pink bass was the alright bridge from Retrovibe that came with utterly useless screws... so for this build descent screws are a must! So I was looking for the afore mentioned neck bolts and found Grainger guitar parts selling the insets, bolts and circle bits for the neck. They seemed to be fairly decent quality. And at the last moment I switched from the Furrells for the string through bridge to this British made string block. Very nice bit of kit, I doubt it will have any audio benefits but it means everything is straight which is what I'm interested in at the moment! After 2 days practice making a guide for this I cut the two different width holes it needs and test pushed it in. Pretty spot on!

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1500365486' post='3337173'] I was also particularly impressed with your pickup routings - that separating piece between them is mighty thin. Great job [/quote] 5.5mm - should have been 5mm but I chickened out. What could possibly go wrong?

[quote name='SH73' timestamp='1500919961' post='3341108'] I see you're working with Bosh 1400 ace router. I'm thinking of getting one. How do you find it? [/quote] Erm - it works! I'm not really an expert on routers - this one has done everything I've asked it to though. I think especaillay using the brushing guide you need bits with longish shanks - but that might be a common problem/issue I think that the depth lock sometimes vibrates slightly loose. I've no complaints.... except if I were in a position to ask again I would ask folk who know more if I would be better with something that does a 1/2inch shank cos it was a question I was asking when I was looking for bits.

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1500885682' post='3340741'] Great stuff! Interesting that you used watercolour to stain. I made a bass a couple of years ago that I used oil paint on. My thinking was that I wanted to avoid adding water to dry wood, but I suppose the amount is so small that it makes no difference. Either way, I was very happy with the results. I thinned some paint a little bit with turps (fine art bg here too ) and rubbed it in with a rag, then let it dry and then rubbed in a heavier coat. By the way, since it seems nobody else has brought it up, well done on getting a bottle of Lagavulin 16 yr old for 20 notes [/quote] thanks it's tasty. Water is fine I think - it will raise the grain but if you think how many finishes are water based these days. Oil paint would be good I suppose but there would be the question of how long it would take to dry! (and more seriously what you would put ontop of it and how compatible it would be) It could all end in tears for me - we shall see! There's been a few times though when going through pages of people talking about guitar finishing, and high specialised and costly tools when I've sat and thought 'wait that sounds like this generic art product I used to use'.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1500793644' post='3340148'] Many thanks for the great name suggestions and for your feedback and encouragement along the long journey Following a 21 page thread is no mean feat - I think you should all give yourselves a pat on the back Declaration of the name winner will be announced early afternoon Andy [/quote] it's the reason I was inspired to make my wee build - though my estimate was you would have finished two basses before I had finished mine still stands. How is Mick's matching fretless going? 😂

Name: The average white bass (Obviously ironic as it's not average, but I liked the reference)

Minim model Artemis model (playing on Micks username on here with a Greek reference, and a hint that's making it is a work of skill) Model M - for minimalist, for mick and most of all following the minimal nature of the bass Bassy McBassface - cos I made a few good suggestions so thought I would be the first to get this in there!

You made him take off his ring I see

The bedroom window sill is complete! Actually ended up using a lot of the same techniques it's a lump of wood , cut to shape, sanded lots stained then varnished - really it's the same thing. Except a window sill is a lot cheaper - oh and the router depth lock has been playing up almost catastrophically In the case of the cill - but hey builders caulk fixes everything right?

Holographic colour flip flake over black