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[quote name='AsterL' post='1331551' date='Aug 7 2011, 11:58 PM']I am currently thinking about making a custom bass cab. I have a friend who is donating to me a Class-d sub (single 15 driver), which I have taking the low pass crossover out of. I will be adding a 300 watt 4 ohm speaker to work with my soon to be ordered Eden Wtx 264. If I add a 8 ohm tweeter to the cab with a 8 ohm crossover, will the impedance still be 4 ohms? I have been reading this: [url="http://colomar.com/Shavano/crossover6db.html"]Crossovers[/url] and its a little bit confusing. As well what frequency crossover should I use for the tweeter?[/quote] If you're using a piezo tweeter then you don't need a crossover (maybe just a couple of resistors to reduce the power going to the piezo). If you're using a wire diaphragm type then the choice of crossover depends on the frequency response of the tweeter. Can you give us a clue which tweeter(s) you're considering?

[quote name='mentalextra' post='1331440' date='Aug 7 2011, 09:58 PM']I am amazed that they dont put the "Fender" logo on every little thing![/quote] Do that and the prices will rocket.

Intermittant faults can be a real nightmare to fix and it's usually a case of working out what isn't causing the problem. When you get the crackling, does playing with the rotary controls get rid of it? If 'yes' then give the pots a liberal dose of switch cleaner. Does the crackling appear if you gently 'bounce' the amp on the floor? If 'yes' then you'll be looking for a loose connection or dry joint. You could also try looking at the little wires running from the speaker connection plate to the cone and make sure they aren't resting against the cone itself.

I've owned an SR505 for about 7 years now. Walnut bodied with Bartolini branded pickups, maple neck and rosewood fingerboard. Other basses have come and gone in that time, but the 505 has stayed and is the one that always gets packed first when I'm playing. It's nice and light, well balanced and has the thinnest (and fastest) neck of any production bass on the market. If it got broken\stolen then I'd replace it with the same without any hesitation.

[quote name='largo' post='1326518' date='Aug 4 2011, 09:34 AM']I just took delivery of 2 new GK Neo 112-ii cabs and they come with very nice 4-wire speakon leads. Because I use a Markbass amp I need to use 2-wire speakon leads. So easy question, can I convert the GK ones to 2-wire by disconnecting 2 of the wires or are they completely different? Cheers.[/quote] Unfortunately they're different - you can't fit an NL4 plug into an NL2 socket. Get a couple of NL2 plugs and change one end of the supplied cables. You want to wire them so that you have one wire going to the +1 connector at both ends and the second wire going to the -1 connector at both ends. Leave the other two wires disconnected.

From a purely mechanical point of view it's doable if you don't mind fiddling about adapting parts to fit properly. However, from a cost point of view you will probably find that the sum of the spare parts needed will by far exceed the cost of buying a pre-made one...

Playing a 5 string isn't a lot different to playing a 4 string. It's been a lot of years since I made that first jump but I seem to remember that it only took a couple of hours to get to grips with the added B. 5's are no longer seen as 'a bit of a fad' and are certainly here to stay now, so getting yourself up to speed with them is definately a worthwhile exercise.

[quote name='AsterL' post='1324566' date='Aug 2 2011, 05:28 PM']I have a question about ohms. If lets say for instance a Eden wtx 264 is 300 watts at 4 ohms. If I plug both of the speaker outputs in to a ashdown abm 210 a 8 ohms cab, would it then become a 300 watt rig at 4 ohms, or 150 watts at 8 ohms (which is what it would be if only one input was used.) ? I'm looking to get both of these, tried the eden head at my local guitar shop today, didnt think it was loudest thing ever, but sounded great. totally what I'm after tonally. My other option is to get their wtdi pedal and have that drive a power amp into the cab.[/quote] Nope. The second socket is to run a seperate cab - not provide an extra feed to an existing cab. If you run a 300W @ 4Ω​ amp into an 8Ω​ cab then you're effectively pushing 150W.

[quote name='jamiesonk666' post='1321147' date='Jul 30 2011, 10:46 AM']Good morning, Has any one used or own a Line 6 HD750 bass head. Is it any good??[/quote] I know some people on here like them but my experience of them has been pretty dire - I owned one for less than 24 hours and just took it back. The memory function is probably good if you like gimmicks, but lets face it, most bass players tend to leave their amp settings alone once they've got the sound they like and make minor tweaks to suit the venue. The built in effects were lacking in subtlety and the manufacturers claim of 750W appears to be based on an obscure measurement criteria - I was having to run the thing much harder than the old Hartke 250W amp I replaced. If you're looking for a powerful amp on a budget then take a look at the Hartke stuff or stretch the budget a little bit further and look at the Peavey range.

Unless it has a 120/220VAC switch on it, the chances are that it'll fry as soon as you plug it in.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1317614' date='Jul 26 2011, 08:44 PM']It has other uses too..... [/quote] "You expect me to talk Goldfinger?" "No, I expect you to make me a patch lead Mister Bond of Her Majesty's Soldering Service..."

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1317556' date='Jul 26 2011, 07:56 PM']Mine has a smart wee button that shoots it up to 130w in the blink of an eye. Handy for casings.[/quote] ...or bringing down low flying aircraft...

[quote name='bremen' post='1317262' date='Jul 26 2011, 04:23 PM']Sorry, Ou7, I'm not following you around just so I can disagree with you, but as Pickle says you need a fair bit of heat for lead-free solder and 25W is the bare minimum.[/quote] Nope. Antex for example, state that all of their irons will work perfectly well with lead free solder. I have a 17W Antex iron that I've had for donkeys years and it works just fine. Provided you are using electronics grade lead free solder then there's only between 5° and 20°C difference in the melting point.

[quote name='KevB' post='1317022' date='Jul 26 2011, 01:38 PM']We don't even have a name yet.[/quote] Shellshock?

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1315817' date='Jul 25 2011, 03:20 PM']Depends how you are recording. If it's multitrack and you've got good separation of instruments, and the overall "vibe" of the track is good then play through to the end and go back and fix your mistakes. It's just as bad to make all the other musicians play the bits that they've already done right over and over again because you screwed up.[/quote] It's always multitracked for me. Yes, it's perfectly ok to go back and correct an offending note, but I do much prefer to do it all in one take so I can get consistancy over the entire piece - it's more psychological than 'actual', but a corrected note sounds wrong because I know what it used to be. It's not as bad as I make it out to be though, I usually have a run through of the track, then a first take which is usually ok and a second take if I'm not happy with it - I've never needed more than three takes because I know what I'm doing before I start...

I've been doing this for 31 years now and can categorically state that playing live and playing on a recording are two totally different things. If you are playing live and hit a duff note then it'll be forgotten about as soon as you hit the next correct one, if you are recording then that duff note will be captured for all to notice. My experience is that if I'm already pushing the boundaries when performing the song live, then by the time I've added the extra stress and sense of responsibility to the other performers by recording the song to that same level, then the chances are that I'm destined for a fall. I just relax, keep it simple and just lock into the click (or drum) track. If I screw up then I call a halt to the recording immediately, apologise and start again - there's nothing worse than subjecting everyone to an entire rendition of a song that has a note from hell sat in the middle of it. Sounds obvious, but having a plan of what you are going to record helps as well - my most fruitless sessions have always been the one's where the question [i]'right, what shall we record then?'[/i] gets asked. Knowing what you are going to be performing allows you the preparation time to become note perfect before you even set foot in the studio. I'd much rather overhear 'wow - he's even better live' than 'he screwed that up so we're gonna have to do it again'.

Well. Working back through what you've said here, it seems that the problem came about after stomping on the switch a little too hard. At a rough guess I'd say you've knocked the back of the switch off and the college techs have either replaced the switch with one that either doesn't quite match the original one, wired it wrong or have had a go at repairing the original switch and haven't quite managed it. I'd start off replacing the switch to get you back to square one and then take a look at the power issue from that point. As far as the power issue goes, if the unit powered up then the polarity was set right. If it kept cutting out then either the wrong size barrel plug was used, the cable is damaged or the socket on the pedal was intermittant in some way.

[quote name='okusman' post='1315033' date='Jul 24 2011, 07:41 PM']Gents I'm playing in Helsinki, Finland next Friday. The rest of the band are really happy with the gear provided, but I've been provided with an ABM 500 1x15 Combo and an RBX 170. I'm gonna take a set of strings to liven her up, but does anyone have any experience of whether she'll be good enough to play a gig with...It's mainly Pop/Soul/Rock...but there are half-a-dozen "thumbed" lines...is this a disaster waiting to happen!? I really don't wanna take a bass with me! Any input.... Mark[/quote] Although price isn't everything, it is a pretty good indicator of quality. The RBX170 is currently on sale at around £160.

[quote name='Roland Rock' post='1314318' date='Jul 23 2011, 11:00 PM']I'd like some advice about the ground/lift switch on my pedal. I know it's something to do with eliminating unwanted noise but I don't know how to use it. What is the best time to use each setting and why? I have experienced unwanted noise, where there is a buzz which stops as soon as I touch the strings. It happened quite a bit with my old Ray but only a handful of times with the P. Is this the type of thing that proper use of the ground/lift switch could eliminate?[/quote] Nope. Buzz whichstops when you touch the strings is a poor earth connection to your bridge. The ground lift button is to remove the earth connection if you are getting an earth loop - it's very unlikely you'll ever need it, I've only found it useful twice in about 30 years...

Are the pot [b]and[/b] switch casings all connected to each other and then grounded on the jack socket?

Only place I can find has a minimum order quantity of 10 units or £25.00 (whichever is the greater). Short of biting the bullet and ordering one in from the states the only other thing that might be worth exploring would be to build a little resistor bridge to stick onto the 250KΩ pot to raise it to 1MΩ like it's partner.

Guitar and\or keyboard for me when I write stuff - it's far easier to hand over a rough finished piece than random scriblings on the back of a fag packet which get transformed into something other than you had in mind.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='1309155' date='Jul 19 2011, 01:59 PM']or 20% depending on which way you look at it (let's not get into the "box of golf balls" argument again though eh lol)[/quote] Golf bal..oh... I'm just going to slowly back away and bang my head against something blunt....

[quote name='Dropzone' post='1309029' date='Jul 19 2011, 12:39 PM']I am thinking of learning how to slap, but play 5 string basses. How much more difficult is it?[/quote] About 25%