icastle

[quote name='flyfisher' post='1292009' date='Jul 4 2011, 11:53 AM']However, on a related matter, I was rather surprised to receive a 'Nigerian scam'-type letter [u]though the post[/u] last week. Never had that before. Anyone else?[/quote] Nope, but there's a Panorama documentary about that tonight - BBC1 @ 8:30.

[quote name='toneknob' post='1292013' date='Jul 4 2011, 11:55 AM']Can the charge-back be avoided by transferring the fund out of your paypal account before releasing the goods?[/quote] It seems not. There is a limit on the amount of money you can withdraw from your PayPal account and it can only be done once a month unless your account is linked to a Direct Debit. You'd never be able to clear your Paypal account out in time to prevent a chargeback and they could take it directly from your bank account months later if they wanted to. The internet may have made the world a smaller place but it's also bought criminals closer...

Most acoustic bass guitars are fitted with normal RW strings from the factory. I've been using one for about 10 years and it's never seen bronze in all that time

Yep it's a con. First off, multiple email addresses are in no way indicative of limited computer access. Secondly, who in their right mind is going to offer more money than was originally asked for. If he's a marine engineer then he's doing it off the coast of Nigeria...

I'd use a router. Two things to remember though: 1) Don't try cutting the depth all in one go - you're far better off taking it a little bit at a time and staying in control of how much wood you're shifting. 2) Speaking as a man who has a finger with a decorative scroll edge, the safety guards are there for a reason...

Well, if your current rig is reliable and producing the sort of sound you want, why take the risk of changing your rig? You'll only end up as so many others who spend £1000's and still never manage to find that elusive sound that they are after.

Should be noticeable within a couple of seconds. It sounds drastic, but I usually put the neck over my knee and give it a bit of a flex just to help it on it's way.

[quote name='domjohnson' post='1289744' date='Jul 2 2011, 12:03 AM']By the sounds of things, no-one actually knows what instrument model theirs is. I was sold this as a "Kay 4" (no such model exists), and a search for the K1-B throws up several different models - each entirely different.[/quote] I'm working from memories 30 years old. Unfortunately, the UK importer for that time (British Music Strings IIRC) seems to have disappeared long before the internet started getting useful so finding definitive answers is a little tricky. What I can say with certainty though, the Kay guitars from the 1960s were of a completely different class to the offerings in the 1980s. The US Kay factory and assets had been sold off and the name was used on the cheapest of the cheap beginners ranges.

[quote name='domjohnson' post='1289447' date='Jul 1 2011, 07:09 PM']The same model? Interesting (but not so cool lol) The guy I bought it from said it was from the 60s, but this was a car boot dealer (as in, not just someone getting rid of stuff just to get rid of it, it was someone selling for profit) so I wouldn't trust what he said 100%.[/quote] Yes, same model. Working from memory, I think what you've actually got there is a K1-B though, the K2-B was an SG shape with two pickups.

[quote name='Steevo' post='1289105' date='Jul 1 2011, 02:53 PM']Ah, thanks. Sorry, I didn't know what voltage/current speakons run at.[/quote] Certainly not enough to provide a meaningful reading on a clamp meter. If you're looking to assess power consumption then you need to go for the mains lead.

[quote name='Steevo' post='1289043' date='Jul 1 2011, 02:10 PM']Thanks! Can you run a clamp meter on a speakon cable?[/quote] Nope. They are designed to measure mains current.

[quote name='Steevo' post='1288709' date='Jul 1 2011, 10:16 AM']Thanks for the replies!I considered a Maplin type monitor a year or so back and actually bought one. The trouble is to change cables you've got to unplug everything meaning if you want to look at one cable, then another at the same time you'd have to have several meters. At least a clamp meter would mean you could test any cable you want at any time. Do you need to separate the cables when using a clamp meter, or can you put the whole 3-core cable in the clamp?[/quote] You can do either - it's only interested in the live cable, the neutral and earth are ignored.

[quote name='Steevo' post='1288483' date='Jul 1 2011, 01:06 AM']Does anyone ever use any sort of clamp meter or similar check what current kit is drawing? Wondered if there was a simple way to get a pretty good indication of what you're asking of the power supply.[/quote] Yes, but I'd never thought of using it on music kit. A clamp meter is definately the simplest and easiest way of discovering what current you are actually drawing.

[quote name='Blademan_98' post='1288384' date='Jun 30 2011, 11:26 PM']Are you sure you haven't been to any of my gigs? [/quote] No, but I think we've both had the same musical education...

[quote name='Bobby K' post='1288371' date='Jun 30 2011, 11:20 PM']Ahh, I gotcha. Well explained. Rather than solder to back of pot, could I solder a wire from the copper to the sleeve of the jack socket? I can solder to the jack terminals confidently but I'm scared of damaging pots with my crap soldering and losing top end again [/quote] Yep that'll do exactly the same job.

[quote name='Blademan_98' post='1288363' date='Jun 30 2011, 11:15 PM']Oh totally agree but it sounds better than all that buzzing [/quote] Yep. Play that duff note with total conviction and glare at the guitarist...

[quote name='Bobby K' post='1288332' date='Jun 30 2011, 10:43 PM']Is it absolutely necessary to solder a wire direct from the copper to the back of a pot? I was wondering whether it would suffice that the copper hanging over the top of the cavities is in direct contact with the copper on the back of the pickguard and this copper on the back of the pickguard is in contact with the earth of the jack socket (the sleeve) anyway. I've just done this very process (exactly as above) on my Squier CV P and there seem to be no issues... Tried the process with my other P bass last year and was assisted by a few members on here (Ou7shined and a few others, ta chaps!) - but i messed it up. I was convinced the copper had severely altered my sound and i'd lost the very top end (through the capacitance added by the copper). I then realised that it was my own sh*te soldering that was the prob With the Squier P, I've just installed one of john's (Kiogon) fine harnesses with screw terminals, so no bodged soldering occured this time No loss of top end and seems to be all well. Just need to know whether I [i]absolutely should've[/i] soldered a wire from the copper to a pot.... [/quote] Using a 'contact connection' is ok but it has a potential drawback. As the copper tarnishes it's conductivity is going to be impaired - tarnishing could be from moisture (condensation\sweat) or just oxidisation from contact with the air. Having a soldered connection provides a connection that will be both mechanically and electrically sound regardless of what happens around it (within reason of course!). I suppose the best analogy would be car airbags - I've never had one go off, but I wouldn't want to be driving a car without one...

I think you're going to find that it's mostly technique. Tone doesn't make things sound rushed, that's your fingers . Rattles and fret buzz 'could' be indicative of a bass needing a decent setup but only if you are getting the same problem with every tune you're trying to play - otherwise it's down to technique again. If your version of it is sounding 'rushed' then you're probably grabbing at the notes and digging in a little too much. Movement should be smooth, certain and controlled... EDIT: Now I feel like that old geezer off of Karate Kid...

[quote name='domjohnson' post='1288183' date='Jun 30 2011, 08:43 PM']I have the same bass! Do you know what year this model was made? I think it's '69, but not entirely sure...Didn't Teisco stop manufacturing stuff in 1969, thus meaning it can't be made later than '69?[/quote] They may not be as old as you think. I was selling these in a music shop back in the mid 80's - rrp was £39.99 IIRC.

[quote name='OreotheBassist' post='1288139' date='Jun 30 2011, 07:55 PM']Has anyone heard of these amps before, I can barely find any information on them and I was just wondering if they are any good because I found one on ebay for £40 and was thinking of getting it but just wanted a good review on them. The amp head I found is a HH ELECTRONIC BASSAMP 100, any information on this amp would be greatly appreciated .[/quote] HH were were based in Cambridgeshire (Huntingdon IIRC) back in the 70's and through the the mid 80's. They were bought out by Laney who eventually closed the brand down. I was never really a big fan of them but they used to have glowing green panels on the front that were quite impressive looking at the time - I do wonder if there was a recollection of them when Trace Elliot bought out their green logo's front panels. Parts wise they're pretty easy to look after - there were no specially designed components other than the electroluminescant front panel. £40 for a working model is pretty good - I'd probably consider one as an emergency backup but wouldn't rely on it too heavily as a 'main amp'. HTH

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1287516' date='Jun 30 2011, 11:54 AM']Shaft has snapped off from the front. It is a pretty metal circle in the face of the amp now. Few of them have done this.[/quote] Well if you're handy with a soldering iron, why not just change the offending pots? Peavey have a UK service centre and are always happy to sell spare parts or you could take an educated guess and order similar pots from RS or Farnell. A couple of hours work with a soldering iron would have that old TNT back into usable condition.

[quote name='hubrad' post='1286834' date='Jun 29 2011, 07:28 PM']If both cabs stopped simulaneously, I would suspect the amp, service notwithstanding.. when did this occur - before or after service? Tried the amp into another cab and with other cables? Etc.[/quote] +1 I'd suspect the amp (or first cable in the chain) as the culprit as well. Dan - what was the engineers report on the amp?

[quote name='neepheid' post='1287014' date='Jun 29 2011, 09:54 PM']+1 for diet coke before: after: [/quote] +1 as a cleaning agent but looking a the way it's stripped off that rust it has to be a big -1 as a drink...

[quote name='Marky L' post='1286736' date='Jun 29 2011, 05:52 PM']I need to shield the pick up cavity (mumble..in a guitar..mumble) and was wondering why not use aluminium cooking foil? The back of many pickguards use what I imagine is aluminium foil, so is there any reason not to use it for a cavity? I don't have any copper foil and just want to get on with my upgrades.[/quote] I'd go for copper tape to be honest. Tinfoil is hard to get a good electrical contact to and the overlaps won't be conductive (because of whatever glue you are using). Copper tape comes with conductive glue, is solderable and is a far better conductor than aluminium.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1286650' date='Jun 29 2011, 04:59 PM']Yep, anyone know of a way to get the flipping rust off an orange bridge? Could just pay out for a new one, but quite like the look of it, apart from it being orange and seized up.[/quote] Not sure how much it would cost, but vintage car owners get various bits and pieces rechromed...