icastle

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1286568' date='Jun 29 2011, 04:07 PM']Okay, as an occasional tinkerer with soldering irons and drills and things, I was wondering if this was doable or a waste of time and energy. I have an old Peavey 115TNT at home that barely works. Is it possible to rip out all the unnecessary pots and gubbinry, refit it into a new box, and stick what I have created into the top of a 10" cab to make a lovely portable combo? If I could get it down to just a gain and master control and bypass all the rest I would be very happy. Anyone ever tried anything like this?[/quote] It would work from an electronics point of view but the catch is likely to be trying to fit a 20" circuit board into a 10" cabinet. Ripping out controls probably isn't going to save you any space as they are generally mounted directly to the PCB to make assembly quicker and more reliable. If you really want to have a go I suppose you could saw the PCB in half, stack one bit on top of the other and rejoin the tracks using a length of ribbon cable. As for the excess pots, best to just trim the shafts down and use them as presets or else you will have to muck about making little resistor bridges to replace them with.

Shielding on a JB is pretty much non existant so you'd definately 'win' a bit of quality by doing that. Changing the pots out for different branded ones of the same value is going to make zero difference. As long as they work ok and don't crackle then it's a pretty pointless exercise - save your money and buy some good quality copper tape instead.

It should be: Wireless kit --> Aphex Aural Exciter --> Behringer T1952 Compressor/limiter --> Trace Elliot AH250SMX --> C-Audio SR-707 Power Amplifier.

[quote name='callingltu' post='1282996' date='Jun 26 2011, 02:15 PM']So i've unscrewed the back plate of cab and it seems that speakers are connected to jack and jack is connected straight to speakon. So that means that i can daisy chain?[/quote] Yes. All the sockets are wired in parallel.

[quote name='MatthewKeys' post='1282491' date='Jun 25 2011, 09:21 PM']Hey I bought an 810 and an svt4 pro today for £850 and I was just curious to how loud the fan should be because it sounded really quiet? Especially in comparisson to my SVT3 PRO which is very very loud.. I'm not even sure if it's the fan, it's just really loud like turning on an old Dell computer. I only really noticed how loud it actually is today after getting the new amp. Is the SVT4 pro faulty, or is my SVT3 pro mucked up? Thanks! [/quote] Despite electronics getting more and more sophisticated, fans have remained largely undeveloped. The SVT4 and SVT3 almost certainly use the same type of fans, so if everything is 'as it should be' there should be no difference in fan volume. The fan on the SVT3 is either in need of a clean (hoover and 1" paint brush) or the bearings are showing signs of wear and the fan needs replacing.

I'd check the area around the modification. It'd only take one wire off around there to create the fault you describe.

Get a pair of small latex gloves. Put an elastoplast over the sore finger end and then cut two fingers off of the gloves. Put those over the finger and use some tape to stop them slipping off. The real trick though is to fix the thing that's caused the problem in the first place. Good luck

[quote name='callingltu' post='1281576' date='Jun 24 2011, 10:09 PM']So this cab has two inputs, but can i connect one to the amp and other one to other cabinet? Are they parallel? I mean if i connect 4omhs amp to 8omhs mag 410, and then use second input of cabinet to connect second cab, will my amp get 4omhs? [/quote] Yes- provided both cabs are 8Ω you'll get a 4Ω total load.

[quote name='pickle' post='1281164' date='Jun 24 2011, 04:06 PM']Hi, i am currently looking ay an encore bass that is listed as a 7/8 bass, i am assuming that is scale. would that mean the body is still full size or will the body be smaller then a standard one? the person only wants £10 for the whole thing in working order, im thinking it may be a good project bass. Also does anyone know what the bodies are made of?[/quote] The body is smaller as well as the neck. They're designed for youngsters who can't quite cope with the size of a PB. Encore used to be made from plywood but they have have upped their game over the last few years. For the price though, it's cwertainly not going to be a single piece of wood.

Well if you are into slim necks check out the Ibanez SR500.

I've been an SR505 owner for quite a few years now and it's my 'go to' bass over my Fender Jazz. It's light, well balanced and has a neck that just begs you to try doing things you'd never tried before. They're superb value for money - go try one out.

[quote name='Fat Rich' post='1278331' date='Jun 22 2011, 11:29 AM']I don't really miss playing the extra frets but I find it a bit disorientating going between Fender and 2 octave necks, I sometimes slide to the wrong fret at the dusty end if I don't concentrate.[/quote] +1 and jeez is that embarrassing...

[quote name='karlfer' post='1278058' date='Jun 22 2011, 07:28 AM']You'll be sorry when you want a 1.75 x.64 brass screw and nobody else in the world has one . Karl.[/quote] You'd be surprised how often I've said that...

[quote name='dood' post='1277847' date='Jun 21 2011, 10:28 PM']With ref to the beast in question though, I play guitar, keyboard and a smidge of drums as well as Bass[/quote]

[quote name='spiderjazz' post='1278001' date='Jun 22 2011, 12:32 AM']Thanks man, that's perfect. I didn't realise that there was the little allen key thing on the pot, ended up ripping the shaft of the pot out!!![/quote] Bloody hell! Do you work in demolition by any chance?

[quote name='spiderjazz' post='1277915' date='Jun 21 2011, 11:13 PM']Just got an Ibanez SRX 500, and like a donkey just broke the volume pot while trying to tighten up the nut underneath, it's just spinning around now with no friction stopping it. Does anybody know where the best place would be for me to get a replacement pot? Does anybody know if I need to replace the actual knob as well, it looks like they're somehow connected.[/quote] Ibanez spare parts are pretty readily available. Use their spares page to find the part number - [url="https://cs.hoshinogakki.co.jp/i-public/faces/Login00.jsp"]https://cs.hoshinogakki.co.jp/i-public/faces/Login00.jsp[/url] The knobs are pretty standard ones one the SR range - there's a little allen key grub screw on the side of the knob you need to slacken. HTH

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1277916' date='Jun 21 2011, 11:13 PM']In this case they act a bit like a phantom coil.[/quote] So they stop phantom pregnancies as well...

[quote name='karlfer' post='1277738' date='Jun 21 2011, 08:55 PM']The company below have the world's worst web site.[/quote] You ain't kidding mate.

If adding a cheap little component like a choke was going to make such a huge difference then everyone and their dog would have done this years ago. The biggest problem with stuff like this is that it's the musical version of the Emporers New Clothes. Once people fall for it and hand over stupid sums of money, they will swear blind that it's absolutely fantastic rather than admit they spent all that money and can't tell the difference...

[quote name='Johnston' post='1277588' date='Jun 21 2011, 07:49 PM']Is that the cylindrical looking thing on the pots??[/quote] Yeah. Hardly new technology, they've been around for years - it's a coil of wire wrapped around a ferrite core.

Lordy... Our guitarist almost wet his pants when I turned up with a 6 string bass, an 11 string would fry his brain...

[quote name='Jigster' post='1277487' date='Jun 21 2011, 06:48 PM']sure, for onstage sound do you mean? but as there's a band PA installed, I guess my question is would the basic wattage provide enough power though the Line Out and back through the pa to project amongst the mix?[/quote] Ah. I think I get what you're asking. The line out socket is independant of the power amp and just sends a line level signal to the mixing desk. It makes no difference if your amp is 20W or 1000W, that line out signal remains the same.

I bought a Line 6 amp head from GAK back in January. It arrived faulty and I needed a replacement urgently for a gig. I decided against another Line 6 and went for a Peavey instead. They shipped a Peavey next day for the price difference, no mucking about waiting for the Line 6 to be returned and they even used the same courier to take the Line 6 away at the same time. Brilliant service and a healthy dollop of common sense - I've shopped with them ever since.

[quote name='garymilitia' post='1275878' date='Jun 20 2011, 01:46 PM']I'm just putting together the electrics for my PJ bass, what capacitor do I need? 0.022, 0.033 or 0.047? Im looking at the kits here [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeWiringBass.htm"]Axesus[/url][/quote] The choice of capacitor dictates the amount of high frequency signal that is removed from the signal path. The degree to which the signal path is affected by the capacitor is dictated by the capacitor - the higher the value the more high frequencies are removed. As you have no reference point to start experimenting from, the best bet would be to order a kit with 'x value' capacitor and then order the other two capacitors as seperate items on [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsCaps.htm"]this[/url] page and try swapping the caps about until you get teh sort of sound you are looking for. HTH

[quote name='bobpalt' post='1274897' date='Jun 19 2011, 04:24 PM']Has anyone had a problem with the input jack on a RH 450 head? Last song of the night (thankfully!) last night my bass went quiet on me, and I assumed the battery had died (even though it was fresh). Got home and checked everything out, and all worked fine, except that the input jack on the head seemed to be loose inside. The cable I was using (a Planet Waves) had to be pushed right in to work, and it moved easily out a couple of mm with no pressure, at which point the signal was cut off. Just a tiny, tiny distance. Different cables seemed to "stick" in the socket a bit better, but still loose, as if a bit of spring metal inside needed bending a tad to make a better contact. Qustion is, and I have e mailed the good folks at TC asking the same thing, can you bend the jack contact, or do you have to have a new one fitted?[/quote] Depends on the type of jack socket. If it's mounted on the circuit board then it'll need to be replaced. If it's one of the open 'skeleton' types then you can bend the contact back in with a pair of long nose pliers. Either way round, not a difficult or hugely expensive repair job.