Matt P

I've just thought of something else, if you ever decide to sell this or part it out then you might find it more difficult to sell than if it had more "normal" fretwire. Matt

the main thing to check is the width of the tang of the fretwire, i think that most frets are all pretty much the same in the width of the tang, might be worth checking that the slots are deep enough but apart from that the profile of the fretwire are more of a personal preference. one of my favorite basses has almost completely worn out frets, it's pretty much fretless but with a set of flats it's one of the best sounding basses i own (i just wish it didn't weigh so much!) Matt

I would start by checking that power is getting to the preamp, then I'd investigate the jack socket as this is acting as the on-off switch, you should be able to check each of the pots as well, I'd suggest that as soon as you have checked the power it would be sensible to remove the battery and maybe unplug the preamp as it is a sealed unit so it won't be possible to fix anything inside of it, if all the other connections are solid then it will be new preamp time.

make sure it is the right adapter, the sort most uk people take abroad is for plugging a uk plug into a euro socket, you need the opposite, for plugging the euro plug into a uk socket, i wouldn't worry about using an adaptor as that is what thomann supply if they sell you something with a hardwired euro plug. Matt

Hello, do you have a multimeter? It's likely to just be a bad connection somewhere shouldn't be too much work to find the issue (I am a huge fan of aria integra basses, had one of the passive ones as a first bass and have a short scale one sitting next to me right now. They are far better basses than the price tag would have you believe. Matt

i believe that quite a few people have been fitting the uke bass strings to their ashbory basses, they are supposed to be a bit more useable than the originals (and there is quite a range available now) i have thunder reds fitted to my Kala U-bass. (i also have fond memories of the bass place on Nun street, it was part of my weekly trawl round Newcastle, usually just after a browse in Spenders across the road.) Matt

@fleabagas the fans are blowing into the amp you might want to consider a couple of dust filters to help keep it nice and clean (as you have gone to the effort of cleaning it) most computer places sell very cheap magnetic dust filters, i think they are a couple of quid each, might be worth it (or for anyone else with a inward facing fan) https://www.google.com/search?q=magnetic+dust+filter Matt

As there seems to be a fair amount of talk about strings at the moment, and i've got very little else to do i have finally taken some (hopefully) clear photos of the strings on my precision bass. I bought this bass almost 10 years ago and the previous owner had fitted a set of used flats that they found in a cupboard, these most likely came off a bass that they bought then strung up with something else so he has no idea what they are, the gentleman who set up the bass didn't know either. they have a great sound and i have adjusted nothing on this bass since i bought it, it just sounds and feels right so i have left it alone. does anyone have any idea what these strings are? I'd love to be able to fit the same ones to another bass or just to be able to have a spare set if the unthinkable happens and i break a string. Thanks in advance Matt

GHS Precisions only have silks at the headstock end (black) i have a set fitted to my short scale and they are lovely! Matt

and for super nerdiness i think that Fender colour the ball ends on their strings too (at least the last set of Fender g****r strings i bought had coloured ends)

i have Chromes on my 5 string and do really like them, however i fitted GHS precision flats o n my shortscale and they are lovely too (just the right tension for me) as a bonus they have no silk at the ball end and a nice low-key black silk at the headstock. Matt

i've not had this, my suspicion would be that the maybe part of the bridge/string retainer has broken? does it look like any bits are missing? As it's a polished bridge it should be easy to see the broken area as it will be a rough casting surface (probably grey?) not a smooth gold finish. a bent part might also have allowed the string to slip out, compare the d string bridge with the other 4. Matt

strings direct seem to have some stock, i have fitted Picato flats and rounds in the past and really liked them, as far as i can remember the overwater flats were by picato as well. as an aside, strings direct now list the distance from ballend to silk as well as the silk colour on their website! Picato flats at strings direct Matt

there are actually 2 different sizes of these switches, the ones made i the usa are bigger than the ones from the far east, from the picture i think you might need the usa version, they are fairly easy to get hold of, some have a cross shaped slot with both sizes available in one tip. the USA ones are sometimes described as imperial and the far east ones as Metric. i don't know which size gear4music are selling but they are pretty cheap so probably not the end of the world if it's the wrong size. https://chguitars.co.uk/product/k13a-s-style-switch-cap-metric-3/ i have used this seller many times and always been happy with them. they have an ebay shop as well. Matt

for me it would depend how far through the build process they are (what routing/drilling has been done) also do they need the fretboard removed and carbon reinforcement put in? personally the earlier they have been removed from the build process the more likely i'd want one (different pickups maybe and passive rather than active) as an aside, what string spacing does the NT5 have at the nut and bridge? your website gives 38mm as the nut which looks like a typo as the nt4 has a 38mm nut as well (standard jazz dimension) the idea of a customised 32" 5 string is quite appealing. Matt

Yeah, same for me, I've even got an amazon voucher that needs spending, I'd have to modify the saddle to keep the spacing at 18mm though. Matt

@Painy I really shouldn't be asking this but what is the string spacing at the bridge? I've already got a kala acoustic u-bass but a 5 string solid body is very tempting! Matt

i tried one of these a few years ago whilst looking for a backup 5-er, they have a fretboard you could land a jet liner on, and 19mm spacing at the bridge as well i think, a totally different beast to the more recent squier vm p-5 (which is what i ended up buying) i think it would be a good starting point if you wanted to build a 6 string with narrowish spacing though! matt

That's good news, keep us updated on how it goes with the new fan, I have an ah250 of a similar vintage so I'll need to do the same swap at some point.

RS throws up these as the right size and voltage, i would check the flow and pressure numbers though to make sure it has enough puff/heft https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/hvac-fans-thermal-management/fans/axial-fans/?applied-dimensions=4294472758,4291947769,4294572386,4294378374,4294380154 Matt

a bit of googling has given this as the new equivalent (i occasionally spec papst fans at work) https://www.ebmpapst.com/en/products/product_search/productdetailaxialcompact.php?pID=53843 available at farnell https://uk.farnell.com/ebm-papst/9906/fan-slim-119mm-115vac/dp/9600949 i would suggest a bit of a search using the size and voltage specs to see if there is a cheaper alternative (the papst fans are pretty robust though, we spec them for industrial use) Matt

I'd go for the rega carbon, if you read through the reviews they struggle to find much bad to say against it, from my own experience of fitting them to a few different turntables I have to agree, I fitted one to a 70's trio turntable as a stopgap solution whilst the owner saved for a new turntable and 4 years later he is still using the trio/rega set up and loving it, the money he was saving has been spent on more records. Matt

I would suggest that a new cartridge would be the best bet, the main question is how much you want to spend now. Matt

You say that it's the original cartridge, do you know the make and model, there are still very good quality styli being made for certain cartridges. (the Jico SAS ones are supposed to be excellent) if a quality stylus is not available then I would suggest a new cartridge, modern ones have come a fair way since the 70's. what would you class as not too expensive? personally i'm running a Ortofon 2M red on one turntable and a Rega Carbon on the other, the Ortofon is around the 100 quid mark and many enthusiasts would class that as budget, the rega is under 30 quid and it is my first choice for resurrecting old turntables as it has surprisingly good performance. i am interested in the new grado E cartridges as well, the E3 is quite tempting. https://www.hifix.co.uk/ortofon-2m-red-moving-magnet-cartridge https://www.hifix.co.uk/rega-carbon-cartridge https://www.juno.co.uk/products/goldring-e3-moving-magnet-cartridge-stylus-eu/661196-01/?currency=GBP&flt=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NTxBRDxARIsAHyp6gDfhIwI_GVpDb8ewxTPw1JA11cdlOi7YL5MwSV0LcTOOTL7lIcZgtAaArqUEALw_wcB Matt

Yes the Hiscox cases aren't cheap compared to most gigbags but if the bass is wearing through them then the initial outlay will pay off, i bought my first Hiscox about 20 years ago and it's still in very good condition, i have bought about 12 of them now for various instruments and all but 3 of them secondhand and have rarely paid more than 50 quid (some have been as cheap as 30 quid!) unfortunately the EBP is one of the less common ones but does still pop up secondhand. If you compare to a Mono M80 (as suggested very early on) then the Hiscox is actually cheap, £127 for the Hiscox vs about 170 for a M80 gigbag or 120 for the M80 bass sleeve. Matt