paul_5

Yup; he can get hold of obsolete transistors and diodes too for added MOJO. Makes a BIG difference...

[quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1380193076' post='2222054'] This strikes me as a good deal: [url="http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/m-audio-focusrite-protools-audio-interface/1033396953#photo-content"]http://www.gumtree.c...3#photo-content[/url] [/quote] Yup, I'd check compatibility with your OS though, as these don't run on OS X 10.7 and up (on Mac, not sure about PC)

If you're new to all of this shizzle then the easiest thing in the world is to pop into Maplins. Don't do this. It's WAY cheaper (by at least 50%) to get your components etc... from this chap. http://doctortweek.co.uk

Alright, I'll play. Just finished spraying and assembling this in my shed.

Need any layouts for a good quality buffer? Try these: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/cornish-buffer.html or this one's a bit simpler, but still good: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/klon-buffer.html Hope this helps.

I can see no end of "trigger's broomism" happening as a result of this.

Also, if you want to use a quieter OPAMP chip then substitute the TL072 for an NE5532; it's pretty much the first upgrade I do to any circuit. Happy days.

Mmm, might need a buffer in there to avoid 'loading' the output. Something like this would do it... [URL=http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/2chan-mixer_zpsad69650f.png.html][IMG]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/paul_510/2chan-mixer_zpsad69650f.png[/IMG][/URL] Might be a little bit more complicated than your initial idea though.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1380031509' post='2219810'] Lead poisoning is not a great risk when soldering - the temperatures used are not high enough for there to be any appreciable amount of lead in the fumes, and it doesn't produce inhalable fine dust. Clear up the bits when you're done and wash your hands and you'll be fine. The fumes from the flux are more of a risk, as often it contains rosin which is a sensitising allergen, but with decent ventilation and short exposure that's not too much of a worry either. The ROHS regulations which have banned lead solder in new equipment are environmental regulations intended to keep lead out of landfill, rather than being driven by workplace health and safety. [/quote] Phew, that's a relief. There must be some other reason why I'm bat-sh*t crazy!

My favourite is the EHX one. Metal case and self-contained. Jack input and a 1/8" headphone socket. It's got a 9v battery inside (a normal PP3 one) that last ages. To turn the amp on simply plug your headphones in - unplugging them turns it off. http://www.hotroxuk.com/electro-harmonix-headphone-amp-personal-practice-amplification.html?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CLzFoLGT5LkCFaTLtAodMF4AoQ I keep mine with a short 1/4" to 1/4" lead in my gig bag. In answer to your last question: yes, they're brilliant.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1380027313' post='2219694'] Also, if you can find the old style tin/lead solder (they don't sell it in Maplins), it's easier to use than the lead free kind and doesn't require as high a temperature. [/quote] True dat - I have to run my iron about 30% hotter when using lead free stuff. Take sensible precautions though, lead poisoning is pretty nasty.

A temperature controlled one is a good idea, as I've found that the ones without get too damn hot and end up damaging stuff. If you're just doing wires and sockets then it's not quite so critical. Also you can get away with a larger tip if it's just for wires and sockets. I use a cheapo one from Craplins at the moment and it's doing ok for a £20 thing. Maplins don't sell them any more, but there's a chap in Stockport selling them on eBay for £15: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Variable-Temperature-Soldering-Station-Iron-Kit-NEW-/120730956097?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 Don't forget that if you're going for a new iron then you'll need to 'tin' the tip like this: http://youtu.be/j1ZnkTC5bps Also, when soldering offboard (generally wires) then you'll need to 'tin' the ends of the wires too - once you've stripped them twist all of the strands together and apply the iron and solder at the same time so that they turn a lovely, shiny silver colour - this stops any errant strands making contact with stuff that they shouldn't, and makes for a better solder joint. Hope this helps.

I had one of these and it's VERY close to the OC2, I seem to remember it played better with active basses than the OC2 though. Cast metal housing too. Do it, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised, I know I was.

Accelerator, brake and clutch. Some bassists don't have a clutch, but for my setup all 3 are essential.

erm, [i]most of them...[/i] Maybe it's just me. I'm sure there have been some spiffing releases this year.

ROHS bunch would shoot me for saying this, but lead solder all the way. I ran out last month and have been using some sh*tty 'lead free' stuff from Craplins (hey, desperate times) and it's absolutely rubbish to work with. Just my 2p worth! Use it in a well ventilated area though* *whilst wearing a mask, gloves, goggles, condom etc...

I play fretless almost exclusively but I'm a 'Jazz' man, not a 'P' guy. It's a beautiful bass though.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1379884659' post='2217931'] Yep, the DHA would get my vote for this as well. [/quote] Yup. DHA all the way!

Another +1 for the John East. I've had a couple of J retros, and if the P retro is half as good as those were, then it's well worth getting!

I record all my bass tracks (and quite a few of other people's) DI'ed through a DHA VT1 EQ. It's lovely at fattening up the bottom end, and can give a LOT of crunch if you need it, without losing low frequencies. Not everyone's first choice, as technically it's an overdrive pedal, but it's got loads of clean boost and a whisper quiet DI output. Way under your budget too.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1379847250' post='2217301'] The 35W version is pretty small, and the one I had would just about manage a rehearsal with a (restrained) drummer. I mean a drummer that kept the volume down, not one that was tied up or anything. [/quote] You should try this - they're even quieter this way.

I've just built a Catalinbread Poblano Picoso clone and it's ACE! It's designed as a booster/buffer/ampeg grit pedal but can get really loud due to the boost circuit. Chuck a volume control on the output stage and it's a keeper for sure. Small enough to fit in a gig bag, and the parts cost even less than a BDI-21 too. Happy days.

Dunno. At least with a low B it doubles as a thumb rest.

Dunno really. I'm not massively attached to any of my kit; they're tools to do a job and nothing more. I [i]do[/i] love the sound of my fretless bitsa with 2 humbuckers though...