obbm

A typically suitable switch is [url="http://uk.farnell.com/eaton/7694k4/switch-toggle-4pdt-15a-250v/dp/1383063"]http://uk.farnell.co...250v/dp/1383063[/url] Wired as diagram.

You can make it 2-ohm/8-ohm switchable using a high-current 4-pole change-over toggle switch.

Nick Unfortunately the MM pick-up and the pre-amp work together. If you change the pre-amp to anything other than the MM then you'll lose the coil switching. It is possible to replicate the coil switching using a multi-pole switch but you'll get a volume change between settings and you need to rewire the pickup slightly. i.e. separate the coils and add an extra wire. I went through several combinations (East, OBP3, Duncan, Bartolini) and settled with an Alnico Nordstrand MM5.3 pick-up and a stock MM pre-amp. It works for me.

I also plan to be there.

Recently agreed to buy a Schroeder 1212L from Bob. A faultless and very quick transaction. Cab was depatched the same day and arrived very quickly. Brilliant sounding cab and I'm well pleased.

100 watts.

Basschat member Jake Newman (jakenewmanbass) who is in Aldershot.

Thanks for the comments. Now been looking at the GK Neo210 - the wedge shaped one. That has a good spec, good reviews and quite light so might be a better choice as I can see other uses for it.

We've just put together a house band for one of the local Jams doing one week in three. I don't mind using either my GK MB200 or the MB Fusion but as stage space is at an absolute premium I don't really want to drag the Schroeder 21012 along. I've been looking at low-ish cost/lightish cab(s) and came across quite a lot of discussion and love for the GK 210MBE cabs a few months back. How are folks getting on with them as they still seem to be amazing value for money?

[quote name='largo' timestamp='1338498902' post='1675603'] there you go, I did it .... posted on Ashdown's FB page [/quote] ...and you've won a hat.

perhaps even a comment on their Facebook page

Truly amazing.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1338030618' post='1668831'] As far as I'm aware it's should just be a constant on light. My only guess is that there was some kind of voltage sag causing it to be dim and coming back to full brightness when power allowed. [/quote] The light has a dull glow when the amp is switched on and no signal but the harder you push it the brighter the light gets.

I gigged my Orange AD200B for the first time in a while last night and noticed that occassionally the orange power indicator light was occasionally pulsating and glowing quite brightly. I've not aseen this before and I can find no mention of this feature, if that's what it is, anywhere. Does anyone know what tis is indicating?

[quote name='Mark_Andertons' timestamp='1337811146' post='1666001'] Have you been to see us since the latest refit? [/quote] Depends when it was. Last visit was October last year to pick up a Zoom recorder.

Welcome Mark. I've been a customer of Andertons right from the very first shop in Stoke Fields in 1964 when I used to drool over Fender Jazzes and Precisions that I couldn't afford. I still can't afford early 60s Fenders so nothing much has changed.

I've had it for the best part of 30 years and as far as I'm concerned there is no fix so I just ignore it and get on with things. Most of the time I hardly notice that I have it.

I recently acquired an excellent 1971 Jazz complete with original bridge and pick-up covers however these were fitted with what look like regular slot-headed brass wood screws which I cannot believe are correct. So the question for the vintage Fender experts is what is the correct type of screw for the ashtrays? BTW it's the Fender that is vintage, not necessarily the experts.