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I just mean as a temporary experiment to find the best locations.

And those positions in mm from the bridge are...? I can easily print two pickguards with the mounting points in different positions, so could do a 60's, a 70's position and/or a Musicman / Jazz Bass 70's bridge position. Rob

The original rail concept is long gone. Too many small hassles.

Because I'd have to have designed that in from the start on this bass and I didn't do that. I did design a pickup system that runs on carbon fibre (!) rails for my headless bass. It was very, very fiddly, very time consuming to design and build. It actually is on the headless bass now, so if anybody at the SW Bass Bash wants to see it, they can marvel at it. Part of the problem is that I had to take pickups that were designed to be screwed into a body and make them fit the sledges and rails whilst still fitting it all into the central cavity. It took a long time to get it right. Now if I did it, I'd glue the four mounting blocks in and simplify some of the other parts. Hindsight is great. I just want to make a first stab at where the pickups should go is all. I've found a site that suggest 54mm from the bass bridge for one pickup and 172mm from the bass bridge for the neck pickup. I also found sites arguing over 60's positions vs 70's positions. Thanks Rob

Fired a guitarist for missing a gig and then a studio session. He threatened legal action if we used his songs live or used them to promote ourselves. I ended up quitting said band 18 months later once I realised that the drive from the others was not there and they had no desire to gig. They booked a studio session a month later and recorded and released a song that I wrote... didn't threaten them with legal action, did I?! The whole band split another month after that.

At least cut the plate down a bit, like on one of the Variax guitars:

It might if you could actually buy one.

Why not put the pickups to rails? Or attach them like in Spalt vViper. https://www.spaltinstruments.com/instrument-gallery/special-projects/vviper/

Yeah, it's a fine looking bass but that's brand new Status money so.........

Should be pretty close. The action will have to come up slightly for the TIs at the very least.

Misa Quadwave would solve the latency issue.

I've tried a million different brands of flats, and I've got clear favourites. This is what I use: Fender AM Jazz: Labella Low Tension. I love these. So smooth feeling and sounding Fender 70's Vintera Jazz / Le Marquis Jazz: Fender 9050's on both. I'll never swap these strings out. Ric4003: Rotosound Jazz. These suit the Ric tones well, although I'd prefer if they were smoother. I think I'll swap these out for Labella's. Fender AM P Bass / Aerodyne Jazz: Tomastik TI's. They sound great, just a bit sticky for my liking. Hofner 500/1: Beatle Bass Labella's. Lovely and thumpy. My top two are the LB Low Tension's and the Fender 9050's. Either would be great for you I'd say. Be warned that the Fenders take a good bit of time to break in, but once there. Oh man. The sound..

Have been using Alpine the last year or so. Will have to check out the Alpine Tune model.

In the spirit of the original rail concept, experiment using temporary cardboard carriers to find what works for you.

You can try one at the Musicman sweet spot position and the other at the typical Jazz Bass 70's bridge position.

It can be phantom powered.

Though - not reading the title of the thread - orchid is not passive

La Bella 760FX or GHS Precision Flats light gauge.

Just bought Dave’s C4 pedal, super fast postage, impeccable packaging - deal with confidence thsnk you!