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Cocaine In My Brain - Dillinger

I Want A New Drug - Huey Lewis & The News

If we forget the headstocks, J is most probably the slimmest at nut. How would P and MM differ from nut width and neck thickness? Would it be feasible to offer two or three sizes (thin J, regular P, wide MM)? I try to understand the difference of the offering, because all custom features seem to widen the amount of units available. Three necks, fretted or fretless is 6 models in total. If the nut width is an option for every neck, there will be many more models. I like the possibility of no front dots, and fretless but that should be a doable option: just jump over some tasks in the production. A logistical nightmare it may be, though.

Thanks for the replies. Im really only asking if the SVT/B-15 switch does anything with the SGT switch off, but good to get some real world impressions.

How about pushing the preamp to mimic a P pickup? At least that's what the preamp is there, to tweak the sound. Added with the place of your right hand you should be able to get a P'ish thick sound.

Sorted for E's & Wizz - Pulp

I've been down this road and my advice is don't. Just buy a P bass.

That’s a flippin’ good idea! Thank you 🙏

If the balance of the pickups is fine, simply turn up the gain of your amp. B string may sound similar to other strings or not. But when you change strings, you can try different ones to find the right for you. I had a MG Quantum 5 that sounded best with a 120, so thicker is not automatically better. Congratulations, you seem to have bought lots of bass. Now go and play a lot!

The B15/SVT only affects the Grit side. Part of the reason I ditched it is because of having to always hit no try footswitch we just to turn the B15 sound on. That and the stupidly high treble frequency (10kHz if I recall correctly).

I put together an unlined fretless precision bass bitzer about 25ish years ago. I used top quality parts, but none made by Fender apart from an ‘F’ neck plate. I did however put a 70s style Fender decal on the headstock as I like the aesthetic — there has never been any intention for me to to sell this bass. A couple of weeks ago, after not having played this bass for a long time — due to losing interest in playing fretless, I gave it a neck transplant using a (fretted) Fender Precision to Jazz bass conversion neck (just a jazz neck with a precision decal) It has also acquired a Fender hi-mass bridge. The bass now has a Fender serial number, so is it now a Fender bass or is it still a fake?

That looks very nice, Alex. Especially like the clear guard. Looks very sophisticated. Enjoy!

I've not had one for a while, but used to use it a lot. As I recall, the knob on the far left is the volume and compression, which only applies to the signal when you activate the preamp switch, and the knob on the far right is the volume and grit (distortion), that only applies to the signal when you activate the SGT switch (which gives you the B-15 tube tone). When the SGT switch is off, the volume/grit knob does nothing to the signal.

I REALLY need to learn this lesson!