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the player P is pretty nice for sure. I love the classic 50s MIM from around 2016. The main difference is qc and the pickups are typically not the best. Also a lot of the Mexican bodies have extra drill holes and mistakes under the pick guard and I have seen neck pockets with curious drill holes in them. Nothing that really affects anything and pickups are easy to swap. I was told by a fender rep that the Mexican plant is getting better and better at qc but is still behind the corona team. I may get a second p again just to have one with flats and it may be a player version or I’ll go hunt down a classic 50s again.

After a long play- absolutely not. Better quality and tone than any MIM have owned. Over the past few weeks I played every fender precision they currently sell and this model was the easy winner for me. Nothing cheap on it, and the tone is killing. I thought no bone nut would be cheap but I even like the one it comes with. Very surprising. I thought they’d be all looks and not great but I was very wrong.

Now you've told everyone someone will copy the abhorrent crime.

May his next turd be a hedgehog. Onwards and upwards 👍

That's a shame. I was disappointed to read the very generic Reason for Rejection section.

I recently picked up an immaculate 2024 pearl white SR300e (for €150!) as I’ve long been curious to try an Ibanez bass and this seemed as good (and as cheap) a place to start as any. I’ve got it fitted with a GK3B pickup and the combination of this with the onboard pickups is sounding mighty fine. To me, anyway - I guess I haven’t conducted a poll… Anyway, to the point of this post. The one thing I’m not 100% sold on with the bass is the fretboard - it’s more red than I think I’d like it to be. Plus it’s an opportunity to tinker with an otherwise fine instrument, and who could turn that down? I’ve previously had reasonable success using Montypresso wax to darken/brownen the fretboards on an Epiphone Casino (yes, I know…) and the Squier Precision I deblinged recently (see build diaries). However, both those have neck binding and glossy neck finishes, meaning it didn’t matter how sloppy I was with the wax (and it can be sloppy stuff), I was only going to stain the wood of the fretboard. The SR300 is slightly different - see pic. Two potential problems: 1. As there’s no binding I need to make sure the side of the fretboard is stained as well as the top. Otherwise it will look silly. 2. But as the finish on the back of the neck is satin/matt I’m not sure whether or not the wax will also stain this. Which would also look silly. So, I’m wondering if I need to mask off the rest of the neck for this job. Sadly this introduces a level of tedium which probably outweighs my aversion to the redness. I know, no dedication to the craft… Anyway, what thinks the collective?

Ramble on - Led Zeppelin

Yep. And it’s still a gorgeous bass 🤩

Seems like the sort of thing a guitarist would do

I can see them doing a similar move as with the bassman bass rig having that similar type of ‘mode switch’ tweed/Blk. Be cool To see the styling too

Bass players are exactly the same as any other group of people. Some of them are tw@ts.

Any updates?

I'm not a huge fan of the Sandberg tone from my VM4 but i always get a tone i like at almost every gig. When i hear vids posted later it sounds pretty good too. Doesn't matter what amp or rig i use i can quickly get a decent tone from it. Its the one bass i can always rely on. I've taken other basses as a back up or used the first set but something's always missing and i revert back to the VM4. I've tried Fender P, J, Overwaters, Godin but i'm never truly satisfied with them. I also find the VM4 the most comfortable bass to play on longer gigs whether its the weight or just the feel of the neck its amazing. I did like the MarloweDK tone with the punk band tho and once again that was my fall back bass and now my back up for the VM4 with the Glam band. Its just so easy to dial in a good tone from a Sandberg VM4 without tweaking the amp. Dave

Wonder if maybe they’ll add the ultra high and low switches from the later models and have the 64/66 control where the mid control is on the other models. Could be a continuous blend or a 2-position knob and still keep the appearance of the rest of the line.

Well, I got it changed successfully! Unfortunately, the one I bought was flat and my board, it turns out, is slightly radiused. A lot of filing later and it fits like a glove and I’ve got my sustain back