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... or are they rubbish? Higth proportion of breakages and the top chews at the slightest amount of torque. That's with pilot holes, before anyone suggests!

Combining a rather fetching Warmoth body/neck combination from our own @Beedster (from his current sale of assorted bits), the bass sports a Lollar 5% overwound pickup and Gotoh Res-o-Lite tuners. The obligatory K10gon loom (0.1 cap) and barrel knobs. A nice weight and very resonant. This one's a keeper for sure.

Tallow (Is It Me You're Looking For?) - Lionel Richie

Let’s Wick Together - Bryan Ferry

Candlelight - Wishbone Ash

Just checked - £569 😖

IME for angled headstocks and strings that go under retainers to set the break angle you want roughly 2 full turns around the machine head post which is 8-9cm from the centre of the post to the cut point depending on the post diameter. For non-angled headstocks where the break angle over the nut is determined by how far down the post the winds go you want as many as will fit comfortably on the post which is normally about 4 complete turns. Also IME it is completely impossible to get the silk ends to line up no matter what bass you are stringing so I no longer worry about this.

Still my go-to gigging bass, still great. The Squier logo's staying on the headstock, it deserves it. I put a Stellartone tone pot in it, because it'll roll off the highs without losing the mids, and I'm a big fan of mids.

to be honest, I've never cut strings for a P bass I make sure they wind down the post, nice a neatly Keeps a good break angle over the nut

I'm a 2 tuning peg man on all my basses and it's always worked for me, although that can leave a lot of excess on the G string tuner on a P bass... When you talk about lining up silks I think "there be dragons"... You're only a step away from wanting all your tuning keys lining up...

Living in the Past - Tull

Just wondering what people’s rule of thumb is for where to cut each new string for 4 inline tuners, well specifically for a P bass. For this kind of thing, I use a combination of following a printout of Fenders own setup guide, notes I’ve made over the years & advice from YouTube videos. Fenders setup guide (4 string) says to cut the E string 3 inches past the tuning post, then the A, D & G strings 3 & a half inches past. I’m guessing they say to cut the E shorter simply so because it’s the thickest one and there’s no need to go crazy with too many wraps around the post. But doing this I often end up with barely any silk showing once tuned up, sometimes none at all, which just seems wrong. The A, D & G silks line up reasonably well, but the E just seems a bit off, following Fenders guide. I’ve seen a few videos, some just go 2 tuning pegs up (which is about 3 & a half inches) then cut. Others go around 1 & a half tuning pegs up then cut. Then some leave considerably more string before the cut. Have you found a method of P bass new string cutting that works well and lines up all 4 silks fairly well?

I think it’s an old 210 watt mixer amp. We use it with a pair of 1x10 passive cabs ( just for two vocal mics ) and it’s actually pretty good! Bloody heavy though. On every gig we just turn it on and don’t touch any settings and it sounds great, whatever the room. No soundchecks needed! One day it will surely conk out I reckon, but old Peavey USA stuff was always pretty bombproof - I had a Mark111 bass amp from the same era and it was just as reliable.

Eagerly awaiting your verdict

I see the two dl=1 images albeit the second is rotated, can't see the other two at all