WHUFC BASS Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Something that I've always thought about but never actually learned is how to set up my own basses. I've been playing for a hell of a long time and just ignored to an extent this subject but now I reckon its time I did my own setting up. One small problem, I don't really know how. Is there anywhere that a humble bass player can learn to set up his own basses? I would gladly pay for someone to teach me how to set up my own bass, rather than pay around £25 each time I need my gear set up. Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMech Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 if you go to the wiki then and click the setup thing, it will take you here: [url="http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html"]http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html[/url] i went through it myself recently as i noticed the intonation on my bass was wrong which meant the notes got slowly out of tune as i went up the fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golchen Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Loads of stuff online, just do a search. I pretty much do everything myself on all instruments, it's not exactly rocket science and I like to tweak to perfection. A bass is pretty straightforward really, just try a 12 string Chapman stick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I leave the big stuff to the main men round these parts - Howard the Bass Doc and Dave Wilson. I'm now confident enough to do truss tweaks etc. myself... someone posted a YouTube clip here recently.. it was Lakland's guy doing an online tutorial. Very good it was too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I learned just by online information and books. Then I just went ahead and had a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stingrayfan Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) Shoot me down here - but is the process of setting up made to look more complicated than it actually is? There's no doubt that a well set up guitar plays a million times better but I'm not sure there's an alchemy to it. I've paid for a couple of "pro" setups and been really underwhelmed with the results. So much so, I've had to get the allen key out and tweak it myself. I'm no expert and it's a bit of trial and error but I've managed to straighten the neck, set the action and intonation and adjust the pickup height without calling an ambulance! Edited September 28, 2009 by stingrayfan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MythSte Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Unless your playing a £5k one of a kind jobbie have a bash yourself. Generally speaking, you'd have to be using a hammer and chisel to do any irreversable damage. Do one or two things at a time and only do small tweaks. There's only three things you really need to worry about, that is Neck Relief - How much or little bow there is in the neck - Allen Key, quarter turn at a time to the truss rod. Clockwise to bring the middle up, anti clockwise to let the middle drop. Action - how high the strings are from the fretboard - Small allen key to the bridge, cant realy break anything down there! Although address the truss rod first as this often has a knock on effect. intonation - Changing one or both of the above will change the strings tuning further down the string (slightly sharp or slightly flat) screwdriver to the back of the bridge, tune your string, then play the 12th fret and see if it is the same, if its slightly sharp, tighten the screw to lenghthen the string. If its slightly flat, loosen the screw to shorten the string. Tune up, repeat. Slightly less important, but still worth looking at more for tone changes than playability is Pickup height. On most basses this is just a matter of tightening the screws round the pickups to lower them, or loosening to higher them. Not normally an issue, but when i got my Jazz the neck pickup was far too high, and i'd often catch my strings on the pole pieces. not only did this cause havoc with any amps i was using but it also significantly shortnened the life of my strings. Its an investment to make sure this doesnt happen! Note - Using the wrong size allen keys or screwdrivers can lead to mashing the threads up, then it really is very difficult to undo any wrong turns. Make sure you get the right size keys BEFORE you start playing! Its taken me about 3 months of fettling with my jazz for it to feel "just right" now. but whats just right for me wont be just right for you! Which is why a "professional" setup would be a last resort to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHUFC BASS Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 [quote name='stingrayfan' post='610701' date='Sep 28 2009, 11:50 AM']Shoot me down here - but is the process of setting up made to look more complicated than it actually is?[/quote] Thats what I'm thinking. Its just I've never really been confident to do it before, especially the truss rod adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisba Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 [quote]intonation - Changing one or both of the above will change the strings tuning further down the string (slightly sharp or slightly flat) screwdriver to the back of the bridge, tune your string, then play the 12th fret and see if it is the same, if its slightly sharp, Loosen the screw. If its slightly flat, tighten it. Tune up, repeat.[/quote] Er, isn't this the wrong way round ? If the 12th fret note is sharp, it needs to be flattened, therefore the distance between the 12th fret and the bridge needs to be lengthened. On my Fender P, this is achieved by tightening the screw. Rather than playing the open string and comparing it to the 12th fret, try playing the 12th fret harmonic and comparing that with the 12th fret fretted. Easier to tell the difference IMHO. Better still, use a good tuner. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 [quote name='WHUFC BASS' post='610711' date='Sep 28 2009, 12:02 PM']Thats what I'm thinking. Its just I've never really been confident to do it before, especially the truss rod adjustments.[/quote] The truss is something I've only just started doing, and I wouldn't recommend doing too much with it without a bit of 'coaching' first.. just in case. Everything else is easily reversible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MythSte Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 [quote name='chrisba' post='610732' date='Sep 28 2009, 12:20 PM']Er, isn't this the wrong way round ? If the 12th fret note is sharp, it needs to be flattened, therefore the distance between the 12th fret and the bridge needs to be lengthened. On my Fender P, this is achieved by tightening the screw. Rather than playing the open string and comparing it to the 12th fret, try playing the 12th fret harmonic and comparing that with the 12th fret fretted. Easier to tell the difference IMHO. Better still, use a good tuner. Chris[/quote] Quite right you are! edited. Thats what i meant, just not what i said! I linked tightening the screw to tightening the string, which as you say, isnt correct. Its a monday okay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I've done my own setups a couple of times using a combination of the Gary Willis link above and the Warwick User Manual which came with my bass. My basses do seem to play a little better for it. If I thought there was some drastic tweaking needed to get a bass in the right shape then I might still be tempted to pay someone else to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bass Doc Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I do set-ups for guys 'round the doors' from me and the one thing I suggest you don't do with a 'shop front' that claims to offer this service is simply leave the bass with whoever is serving and ask for a set-up. Bear in mind some shops will have one person setting-up their own instruments which will be mostly 6-string guitars and their man may make the mistake of treating a bass the same as a guitar i.e. only bigger and having less strings (obviously those here who play basses with more than 4 should ignore that bit). It is, as we know, a competely different animal. From my perspective I need to know how the guy plays - plec, finger-style, slap, tap, whatever, how hard he plays and where on the bass he usually has his right hand (apologies to lefties) as all of these factors dictate the sort of action appropriate to an individual set-up. It should be tailored to the player as much as the instrument. It's therefore a good idea to master your own setting-up if you can and then you will presumably be content with the result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
velvetkevorkian Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I've never paid for a setup on a fretted instrument- start with just string height and intonation if required- dead easy to do and very difficult to screw up permanently. The truss rod is a little more intimidating, but if you're careful its very difficult to do permanent damage. Just don't overtighten (don't try and force it to move) and use the correct size tool. The beauty of this is you save a lot of cash and you can set your instruments up the way you want. You can also experiment with different setups. I'm an incessant tweaker with a low action fixation, and recently started doing my own DIY fret dressing- as long as your careful, you can make a huge difference. The Gary Willis link above is one of the best guides IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHUFC BASS Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Thanks for the replies fellas, some real good info there. I'm going to have a go at this, and see how I get on. I really begrudge paying money for a set up when really I should get my arse in gear and learn how to do it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thepurpleblob Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I know I'm repeating what some others have said but it's made out to be some mysterious process but it just isn't. Take it easy, think about what you are doing and you can't go far wrong. Just in case it helps - here are some tips I've worked out the hard way. Please shout if I'm wrong about anything. In no particular order. * When you fret a string and it buzzes - the ONLY thing that can affect the buzz between the fret and the nut is the neck relief. Between the fret and the bridge it's the neck relief AND the saddle heights. Just saying * Fit new strings and give them a good shove about (e.g. press down where they go over the saddles) to make sure they're bedded in. New strings because old ones can do weird stuff. * Take the trouble to get the right tool for the neck truss rod. If you strip it you'll be sorry. * Don't go radge on the truss rod adjustment. Small turns and wait. If it sticks or doesn't work it's a good time to see a pro. * Expect to go round and round in circles with adjustments as they are all somewhat interdependent. * You need to re-tune the bass after you change *anything*. A good tuner is vital. * The neck is probably not flat, so it's unlikely saddle height adjustments will be. * See how every bass you see has the saddles stepped up evenly from E to G. Yours should look like that too or you've probably done it wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlueFalcon Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Just noticed this on another thread. Good for those that would like to see it being done. [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzV9462xeE&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzV9462xeE...feature=related[/url] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4MdWzN_100&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4MdWzN_100...feature=related[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beer of the Bass Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 [quote name='thepurpleblob' post='610825' date='Sep 28 2009, 01:56 PM']Please shout if I'm wrong about anything. * When you fret a string and it buzzes - the ONLY thing that can affect the buzz between the fret and the nut is the neck relief. Between the fret and the bridge it's the neck relief AND the saddle heights. Just saying [/quote] Neck relief, nut height and any uneven frets will all affect any buzzes between fretted note and nut, I would say. Just to be pedantic ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7string Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 After being scared off by the cost of setups here in Glasgow, I decided to do my own. I've used Dan Erlewine's books and DVD's. They've been a great investment. I've bought them from [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Video,_DVD/Dan_Erlewines_Repair_Series.html"]Stewart Macdonald[/url] I start an evening course at a local college tomorrow evening, so there might be something wherever you live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XB26354 Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I'd agree with most of the above with one caveat: If after making these adjustments over a period of time you still can't get the setup you want, it's worth taking the bass to a reputable bass luthier/repairer to be looked at. Slightly high frets, a badly cut nut, a twist in the neck or flattened fret crowns will all mess with the ideal setup. Of course if you're confident with tools go for it, but I'd rather give my bass to someone that does fretstoning, profiling and nutwork every day of the week.... Once this has been done you should be able to do maintenance tweaks until one (or more) of the above crops up again, by which time other things might need looking at as well - kind of like a 10,000 hour service Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YouMa Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I just dug in and went easy,as long as you are careful its quite easy,to get the action low etc,plus you get to know the instrument more.And remember setting up a bass is like making love to a beautiful woman,as swiss tony would say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thepurpleblob Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 [quote name='Beer of the Bass' post='611354' date='Sep 28 2009, 10:20 PM']Neck relief, nut height and any uneven frets will all affect any buzzes between fretted note and nut, I would say. Just to be pedantic ...[/quote] Yep - fair comment. I was assuming that the bass had no inherent problems of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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